Zalala Beach

I catch a truck leaving from Central Market in Quelimane to Zalala beach – a journey of just under one and a half hours.


With good fortune i get the passenger seat and my middle aged driver has superb music tastes playing some really beautiful Mozambican old-time acapella music with an almost calypso feel to it.


The drive is simply beautiful as we pass lush coconut plantations all along the way, allegedly the largest on the African continent with an intense tropical feel accentuated by the sounds from the stereo. And a total bargain for Mtc20 plus an additional Mtc10 for the bag.


Just before arriving at the beach the palms give way to different vegetation and the butterflies and bird-life are exquisite. Tiny froglets hop off the pathways.


I have seen whiter sands and the sea looks muddy brown here rather than azure but it is still stunning. It is huge and virtually deserted with just a small flotilla of local fishing boats on the beach at the high tide mark.

Muslim fisherman repairing his boat

The “resthouse” is basic but clean, charging Mtc300 per night en suite. They will also produce somewhat expensive but huge meals. There are a couple of restaurants, one on the beach and another in the village. The village is small and picturesque, and clearly there are several wealthy owners with 4wds and satellite dishes perched on classy looking detached houses. This is probably the first place i have seen litterbins in Mozambique.

trinket seller on the beach