Beira

the Muslim influence gets stronger as you travel North

Beira is Mozambique’s second city with a population in excess of 400,000. The Islamic influence is much stronger than i have seen so far in Mozambique. There is also a large Indian population involved in commerce.


Many travellists warned me that it is a “bit of a dump” which seems to be a bit harsh. Lonely Planet describe it as a transport hub famed for its “steamed crabs and prawns as for its tawdry night-life”.

Although not very clean – indeed i caught a few whiffs on the street that took me straight back to my recent time in Port au Prince, the amenities are generally good and there is some interesting architecture, both modern and colonial scattered amongst the 1970s high rise atrocities.

Beggars abound and loiter outside shops many of which are blind and/or missing limbs, i presume from the landmines scattered during the 20 or so years of civil war.

Beira cathedral in sepia



several of the old Portuguese buildings are well preserved

Faced with another 10 hour bus journey to my next destination of Quelimane and with a few bits i need to get sorted, i am here for a few days.

I am based in the quiet and adequate Pensao Moderna near the cathedral which charge Mtc750 per room with shared bathroom. Their slogan “better accommodation in Beira” might be stretching the mark: i am sharing my room with a young plethora of cockroaches.

Not many people would come to Beira for culinary delights. A couple of recommendations include the Beira Bar Cafe just otside the Pensao Moderna for espresso and toasted sandwiches and Mr Hamburger on Rua Correia de Brito for hamburgers and other snacks.

Yummy Yummy is a Chinese restaurant Rua Pedro Alvares Cabral, However depite the expensive food on offer, it was decidedly disappointing. Unfortunately, despite the heavy Indian presence, i am unable to locate an Indian restaurant.