Quelimane to Nampula

This is alleged to be the big one – 12 hours in a chapas! I psych myself up as i board at 3,40am

I don’t have any change so pay the Mtc350 charge with a Mtc500 note the day before and reserve Seat 3. The seat is okay but paying without getting my change is a big mistake. The busboy writes down that i am to receive my Mtc150 change on the day on travel.

The first 6 hours is indeed horrific. Not only are the roads really appalling (indeed the potholes are so monstrous it is easier for the bus to travel alongside the road than on it. What makes it worse is that the bus has both an oil and water leak and has to stop every 20 minutes to stop it over-heating.

a broken bus offers quality entertainment to village kids

For the first time i see angry Mozambiquens. Their patience has been pushed to the limit with the long journey made that much longer. A large woman is the first to crack, mouthing off openly.

However the road improves considerably and the last 300kms are on smooth sealed roads. A road worker helps the seals the leaks and the bus sails along more merrily and there is now greater bonhomie as we head on further.

Stopping in one of just a small handful of villages for lunch, children come out and beg. But rather than funny these kids ranging from about 5 to 10 years old just want food. I pass one the end piece of my omelette sandwich and woofs it down greedily. These kids are clearly starving . Seeing this is genuine i pass the my MTc5 worth of peanuts which they share equitably, and the oldest boy (wearing a ripped and torn green jacket) comes over and personally thanks me for helping his starving “brother”. It’s a very sad sight indeed.

Eleven hours after leaving Quelimane we pull into Nampula. I am refused my changed being told it is for my rucksack. None of my fellow passengers are charged and i know i am getting screwed over. It isn’t much money, but it is the principle. We argue, i swear profusely in Spanish, English, German and French and depart with a sour taste in my mouth without my money.

I check into the Hotel Brasilia opposite the Shoprite (overpriced at Mtc960 for a basic room with no flushing toilet and vow to head on first thing in the morning to Ilha de Mocambique.

Lonely Planet describe Northern Mozambique as “one of the continent’s last wild frontiers – rugged and challenging” so how can i resist?

My dongle which enables me to upload to ALITD daily will be pushed to the limit (it has already failed my in Quelimanes and Zalala) and postings will become more sporadic over the next few weeks. Patiencia to my regular readers. I will continue to write and take photos but might take time to upload.