From Tofo to Vilankulos

Travel in Mozambique is currently very slow. Many of the main routes are in a state of redevelopment at the moment are only currently sealed in parts.

The journey from Tofo is fairly straightforward. Take the local bus (chapas) that run regularly to Inhumbane (45 minutes Mtc20) Walk some kilometer or so to the ferry boat for Maxixe (pronounced Maksheesh) for a 40 minute trip (Mtc10). From the ferry terminal it is about another kilometre and get the chapas for Vilankulos. I am sure I am charged too much for this leg – some Mtc300 but i am given the more comfortable front seat. With current road conditions it takes some 5 hours to cover the 260kms.

Vilankulo is another tropical paradise – somewhat larger than Tofo. The luxury resorts are all on the nearby Bazaruto archipelago charging in excess of US$150, per night. Us mere backpacking mortals make to with the mainland town which has a more appropriate mix between travellists and locals. Visitors are requested to be careful on the quiter parts of the huge beach and don’t flash expensive cameras around.

A number of budget accommodation is available in Vilankulos. I am staying at the Baobab backbackers (dorm beds Mtc256) whilst a few hundred metres up the coast is the Zombie Cucumber which is just a little more expensive.

There are a few dive outfits, including Odysea, the one on-site at Baobab offering two dives for Mtc4200. Dhow cruises are popular around the archipelago including nearby Two Mile and Five Mile reefs. Grant told me not to pay more than Mtc1400 for the day including snorkel equipment water and lunch, but as yet the cheapest I can find is Mtc1700. I continue to investigate.