Sunday, August 8, 2010

Vilankulo

Vilankulo (also spelt Vilanculos, Vilanculo and Vilankulos) might be described as Mozambique’s “foremost holiday destination” with an international airport, but it remains also very much a working town, in contrast to Tofo which is very much a beach resort. The town has few sealed roads but is fairly compact and is fairly easy to get around by walking. The population has increased rapidly and numbers about 40,000. Most of the population live at subsistence levels and there is a prevalence of robbing and muggings, most, but not exclusively at night. Avoid walking close to the mangroves as you head south on the beach at any time. It is not recommended to walk alone at night. Always keep to the main thoroughfares.

The town was struck by a heavy cyclone in February 2007.

rustic village house

The Bazaruto Archipelago and National Park is undoubtedly the main attraction, be it for diving, snorkeling or just hanging out on these gorgeous tropical islands. After all, this is the largest National Marine Park off the African coast. There are several dive outfits operating both from the mainland and the islands. Whilst diving trips are more expensive than Tofo, the waters here also boast the same rich marine life, but also include much more coral and the shy and endangered dugongs

The town currently enjoys two municipal markets to buy bread, fruit, fish and general bric-a-brac, a couple of supermarkets, Groupo Sea and Taurus (Taurus being the best stocked at the time of writing), and the Vilankulo Delicatessen. There are also plenty of restaurants scattered around.

Eating Recommendations include:
Café Mocambique for espresso coffee, hamburger and pastries, Tizi restaurant, The Verandah (when the proprietress is around), Na Sombra (a Belgium family run business) and the restaurant at Zombie Cucumber, but meals need to be ordered in advance and is not always open to non-residents. The pizzas are excellent at Baobab Backpackers.

The Afro Bar seem to be a popular night-time hangout, but many a drunk has been mugged outside. Smugglers is another option.

local village girl

Another interesting option for horse lovers is Mozambique Horse Safaris which run a variety of riding activities, both daily and for longer. Run by a charming Zimbabwean couple – Patrick and Amanda. The horse were imported in, and day trips (currently starting at US$45) including beach and dune rides and the very popular local fishing village of Enrique. Custom made safaris can also be arranged. They are based in Chibune but can arrange transport. Call 842512910 or 29384247. Volunteer help is also encouraged.

Whilst Vilankulo is at the centre of the Northern Inhumbane area, accommodation options stretches from San Sebastian Sanctuary in the south up to Inhassoro. There is talk of merging the marine park and San Sebastian which is home to giraffes and even rhino. There has been some archeological findings in Chibune from the 7th century.

jubilant dhow skipper

The recently published Vilankulos Leisure Passport has maps and discount vouchers and can be found at many of the mid-range and luxury accommodation options.

2 comments:

  1. Hi Aubrey,

    Many thanks for this report and all the nice pictures.

    I just would like explain the price difference between Tofo and Vilanculos:
    - the boat ride to the dive sites is about 1h from Vilanculos, the furthest site from Tofo are about 20 minutes away;
    - including in the trip is the National Park Fee that every diver has to pay;
    - the dive operators in Vilanculos don't do "double tank dives", but offer a full day trip to the archipelago, including of course 2 dives, but also a lunch break on one of the most stunning island of the world, Bazaruto Island;
    - there are about 15 dive boats in Tofo, whereas you hardly see more than 3 dive boats operating from Vilanculos;
    - the fuel is more expensive in Vilanculos.

    I would say that diving in Tofo or in Vilanculos are fantastic experiences, and suggest to all divers coming to Mozambique to try the two dives sites.

    Sorry we couldn't meet when you were around...

    Denis, Vilanculos

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  2. Dear Aubrey,

    Just come across our site and thank you for your lovely description of Mozambique horse safari. I just wanted to let you know our book is out. It is called 104 Horses by Mandy Retzlaff and I so do hope you have a chance to read it. Hope you are well its the year of the Horse according to the Chinese - So the horses, Pat and I are wishing you a very happy 2014

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