Ilha de Mocambique

Ilha de Mocambique is the former capital of the Portuguese colony and is really a must see for visitors to Mozambique. Some 2000kms north of Maputo, it is surrounded by turquoise and azure waters. Unsurprisingly it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site - it is like living in a museum. It is connected by a causeway from the mainland originally constructed in 1964.

the causeway linking the island to the Mainland

The island is approximately 3.5kms in length and no greater than 500 meters at its widest point.

Coconut palms, wild and Indian fig, casuarinas and red acacias imported from Madagascar abound. The island also has two botanical gardens.

one of the gardens

Lonely Planet accurately describes it as both “haunting and magical”. It certainly is and one can’t help but immediately fall in love with this place. It’s very difficult not to.

The island is distinctly divided into two: the stone built colonial town (cidade de Pedra e cal) and Macuti town (cidade de Macuti) with traditionally built houses made with reeds and mud.

stone houses - some in better condition than others

the old courthouse

There are more tourists than travellers here – many of which i guess must have flown into Nampulo from Maputo or Vilankulo via Beira. The few over-landers are making their way south from Malawi. I guess flying would have been a much easier and more comfortable option, but after flying from London to Namibia in May i have had more than my fair share of carbon footprint for this year.

Despite its smallness there is a multiculturalism about the island. The majority are Moslems with a large minority of Christians and a few Hindus. Each all have their own graveyard on the southern tip of the island past the causeway. There is also a small number of NGOs (several of which are visibly from UNESCO). I bet they can’t believe such a paradisaical posting.


I seem to be regularly asked to buy necklaces, maps, old coins and tiles (some allegedly salvaged from off-shore wrecks – surely should be in the museum?) dhow rides and asked for pens, but none of it is hard-sell. Some people just want to walk with you and will ask if they can accompany you down the road. And take no offense when you say no! Kids will ask for pens but happy just to have their photos taken and results shown.

The town is safe and i carry The Beast with complete impunity for one of just handful of places since the beginning of my African Adventures. It gets a good work out.


Historical Overview:

The first phase of great sea voyages started with the Arabs in the 8th century bringing Islam into Mozambique and held the monopoly on trade. Subsequently both Chinese and Indian ships would trade in ivory, textiles, spices and gold.

Vasco da Gama arrived in 1498, and throughout the 16th and 17th centuries the Portuguese found it the ideal base for connecting East Africa with India. Mossuril Bay provided natural shelter if ships arrived too late to connect with the summer monsoon winds. and Isla da Mocambique was made the Portuguese colonial capital in 1507. Nonetheless it was still administered under Goan control until 1752.

Sao Paolo former Jesuit convent and Governor’s Palace

By 1763 the port gained even greater prosperity and together with Sofala, Quelimane and Ibo became vital ports in the slave trade. Appreciating the strategic importance, both the British and Dutch attempted to control the island but failed to defeat the well-fortified town. How Africa has been raped by their colonial “masters”! Slavery was not abolished until 1837. With the demise of the slave trade, the need for a deeper port and the need to deal with more local uprisings, the Portuguese moved their capital to Laurenco Marques in 1898 marking the end of its heyday.

The island was given World Heritage status in 1991.

reed houses in Macuti

Sights Around The Town:

Sao Sebastiao Fortress on the northern tip





battlements

security guard at the fort

the entrance way

the church within

Sao Paolo Former convent and Governor’s Palace is now a museum kept in pristine condition with interesting artefacts. Open daily from 8am, tickets include guided tours of the palace (no photography or shoes allowed inside) and nautical museum for Mtc100 with 50% off for students. You can also purchase tickets here for Sao Sebastiao Fort Mtc200 (50% off with student card.





The Fish Market and Harbour





The Central Mosque







The Hospital at Sunrise





Even More Churches
Sra. Saude Church

Santo Antonio’s church

Miscelanious Others
the main promenade

sunset over the wharf

dhows on the water

Maritime Administration building

one of two Municipal Markets on the island


Other Activities:

For me i am happy to meander around town, but other activities are available.

Boat trips are popular and can be done in either motor boat or dhow. Prices seem fairly standardised ranging from 2 – 3 hour trips around the island, snorkelling and fishing trips, for half day and full day trips including Ilha de Goa, Ilha de Sele Pous and Corrusca beach. Dhows can be rented for around Mtc1800 for the day.

The beaches are pleasant and Nautico beach by the fort is good for swimming and snorkelling with some offshore coral.

Ruby also has some bikes for rent.

Check out the selection of books (many in English) and wine in Books and Bottles just down the road from the Golden Anchor.

Places To Stay:

My original recommended guest house was full so C-C told me to check out Ruby’s Guest House. I love Ruby’s. In a traditional rose-coloured stone house, it offers two courtyards and an a quality rooftop hangout complete with comfy cushions and oil lanterns for after-dark sessions. There is an open bar, with help yourself and write down lemon tarts, chocolate mousse, sodas and even an espresso machine. And their special cashew pie is awesome. Spoiling myself again i take the large double unattached bathroom with running hot water (Mtc900) – it’s like staying in a castle, not least the mosquito net proving a four poster feel. The front lock is tic-tac-toe grid style, similar if smaller than my old rural Hong Kong farmhouse aka The Fish Farm (1991 – 1998). There are several dorm rooms (Mtc400) and a twin room (Mtc900). It is owned by a Germanic-Portuguese couple who moved into the place November 2009. Call Uwe or Claudia on 8439 5862 or email ruby@themozambiqueisland.com

the sun/moon terrace at Ruby's

With a big booking arriving into Ruby’s i transfer across to Casa Das Ondes where the twin room is like a museum and boasting gothic windows and classical furniture features. More of a complete boudoir than a bedroom. They charge Mtc750 but also has an attached bathroom and includes breakfast.

Other quality places might be found at Mooxeleliva, Casa Branca, Casa Louis, Casa do Gabriel or Casa Dona Kero.

The Pensao Escondidinho has rooms from Mtc1250 – 3300, a good restaurant and a swimming pool. There is even the four star Hotel Omuhipii just outside the fort if you really want to splurge in style, and there restaurant is not too expensive with steaks available from Mtc300.

Places To Eat:

I don’t do seafood – somewhat unfortunate when you have spent much of the last month on the coast of Mozambique. Please bare this in mind on these recommendations

Ancora d’ouro is just opposite the Museum of Sacred Arts and has a good menu including great thin crust pizzas from Mtc180, grilled chicken, fries and salad at Mtc160, good espresso, and a small selection of breakfast items which are a little overpriced.

Religuias offers a large selection of reasonable food at generally reasonable prices, but service can be real slow.

Flor de Rosa is open Monday to Saturday from 5.00pm. An interesting menu including chicken in wine, pasta with a variety of sauces from Mtc200 and lasagne (Mtc280). They also have two internet stations at Mtc60/hour. Music is cool and the ambience on the rooftop makes it a great place for a drink if nothing else although i found their espresso disappointing.

There are a couple of reasonable local eateries in the main square opposite the hospital.