Bazaruto Archipelago

passing dhows make trips into the National Park

The Bazaruto archipelago National Park lies across from the Mozambique peninsula at Velankulos. As Africa's largest Marine Park, it is very much a must-do for visitors who can’t afford the exclusive and exorbitant accommodation on the handful of islands.

Numerous dhows plough across Bazaruto Straits and safaris can be booked from several agents. Dolphin Dhows offers the cheapest deal for the day safari (Mtc1400) and is very popular. I opt for a local option – Mapalay (Mtc1500-Mtc1700) a family that have been operating for 10 years. Other options include Mozambique Dhow Safaris and Sail Away. However they all seem to be fairly similar in the day activity
• a hearty lunch
• water/sodas
• snorkel, mask and fins (Dolphin Dhows sensibly provide booties – i ripped myself to shreds on the reef
• Park fee (I am also reliably many organizations find ways of paying individuals rather than the Park Office which is where the money should really be going to)

Almost all dhows depart at 8.30am and the crossing takes in excess of an hour. All the dhows are fitted with twin engines and the sails only go up half way across the straights. The water is generally very shallow and our crossing today was calm. The crystal water sparkles in the morning light making exposures on The Beast difficult in any of its three exposure modes.
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entrance into the park

All the boats are in Magaruque island, the closest of the islands. Petrol prices are at record levels in Mozambique, and such price increases are felt even more so in the north of the country.

the deserted beach awaits

We’re told the best time to snorkel is after 11.30 so i decide to leisurely stroll with The Beast around the island – about an hour and a half walk along predominantly white powder sand, especially on its far side. There are plenty of interesting birds including waders and tropical. Large white storks roost in the trees.

intersting bird-life can be found on the islands

The tides pull out and it’s time for a snorkel. There is very little live coral – mainly brain corals, but the fish live is teaming with Sergeant Majors, Yellow Tails, Sweet-lips, Parrot and Moorish Butterflies. However the dead coral is sharp and the currents off shore are strong. I manage to quickly collect some deep lacerations on my left foot, my left hand and right knee. Blood quickly pores from me but unfortunately it does not attract any reef sharks. A sea temperature of 24 Celsius still feels cold to me and I don’t last long.

The Skipper and First and Only Mate do rustle up an excellent bbq fish, ratatouille, salad and bread lunch for lunch and it is a very chilled afternoon as i wash my wounds in the sea.

our cool skipper and cook for the day

By 2.30pm the dhows head from their anchorage. Most head back to the Mainland but fortunately our skipper takes us to the other end of the island for another hour. Once again the sail only comes down to assist the motor half way across. Not quite as idyllic with the engine noise.

sea urchin

Despite the noise of the engines and my welts it has been an excellent trip.

Most companies also offer an overnight safari for US$100+ but is noted that it illegal to do so. The fee includes the pay-off for authorities to “turn a blind eye.” I was also reliably informed that the extra money just isn’t worth it.