Whoring It Up In The Ganj and Holier Than Thou

Checking out the statistical information on the blog, courtesy of Statcounter, one of the largest hits from google comes from the search “prostitutes in Mcleod Ganj”.

Sorry to disappoint. Clearly I did not explore all the research possibilities in The Ganj.

I´m also a little surprised that Blogspot lists Ketchup with Aubs under the category of Religion/Buddhism. I´m not sure that my friendships and drinking sessions with monks warrants such a listing.

An Eye and a Lens on McLeod Ganj

It can look grotty sometimes, with litter scattered in and to the edge of the roadsides, and there are several smell-spots around the village which remain unpleasantly unidentifiable.

Nevertheless i still love the village and it can look gorgeous too with or without rose-tinted glasses.

This sparkly photo was taken a few days ago. Perched precariously on the ridge of the valley, expansion in the future will always remain limited. Few places in India can boast such non-urbanization.

With A Little Help From My Friends - basic survival in McLeod Ganj

Everyone needs help from time to time and here are a few basics to help you in McLeod Ganj.


Medical:
Men Tsee Khang on the Bhagsu Road is a Tibetan clinic that has assisted me with a variety of ailments from a common cold, throat infections and even a broken toe.

Collect a number and wait your turn. Take the prescription from the doctor to the cashier who will then point you to the in-surgery pharmacist. Keep hold of your receipt to avoid paying a further consultation fee.

The medicine tastes revolting, but has always been affective.

They are open daily between 9am – 1pm and 2 – 5pm

Dental:
My teeth aren´t pretty, but they are the only set i´ve got. Thus i have never dared have any dental work done in India. Fortunately i´ve had no discomfort, but you can try calling 941-805-5680 a number i picked up from adverts on Free Tibet TV which is broadcast from neighbouring Bhagsu.

Mobile Phone Cards and Changing Money:
I have used Aggarwal Tours and Travel in the Main Bazaar for both recharging my mobile phone as well as changing money. Open daily from 9am – 7pm they can also do bus and rail tickets.

Whilst i have a mobile IDEA package, if you intend to head into Lahaul and Spiti Valleys, you are better off with Airtel.

Internet Access and Electronics:
Sonny has been invaluable for organising and installing my Reliance dongle Internet connection. He runs the store above the State Bank on Temple Road. His mobile number is 941 808 5950 – usually open 9.30 -7pm.

Advance Taxis:
For booking taxis in advance Skyline have been very reliable and have at least three branches in the village. Call Mohinder 01892 221591

Post:
The Post Office is located on the slope of Jogiwara Road. It is open from 9.30 – 5pm, They are usually shut on Mondays (as does many places in the village). They only seem to handle box-sending in the mornings. A small Tibetan tailors next to the post office will pack and seal parcels. Collect 2 copies of the “sending and tariff” form from the next door Nimiyon computer centre. Fill in the details and also include your passport number, before taking your chances in the Post Office.

Post has been effective in general and there is also a Poste Restante for those without a permanent address.

ATMs:
The State Bank of India accepts most cards and now has two ATMs. It is centrally located on Temple Road. There is also an ATM at the Punjab bank, but none of my three cards work in it.

Tourist Services:
The Tourist Information Centre open 9.30 – 5pm is situated on the path running between Jogiwara and Temple Road. They are patient, kind and helpful with loads of brochures on different aspects on what to do in Himachal Pradesh.

In case of emergencies, Himachal Pradesh has its own Tourist Helpline 0189 222 1205.

The Definitive Restaurant and Café Guide to McLeod Ganj

Some eat to survive, I eat to enjoy.

The Ganj is blessed with numerous good quality restaurants that reflect the international community that visit or spend time in the village.

In 18 months in The Ganj, I have never suffered food-poisoning or Delhi Belly from its restaurants – no mean feat in India.

As Lonely Planet likes to state, places change, good becomes bad, and crap becomes awesome (or words to that effect).

Back in February i conjured up “The Strawberry” Awards. These were an acknowledgment of a Good Food Guide to The Ganj in a tribute to the non-celebrations of Losar – the Tibetan New Year.

As I am departing before the arrival of the next Losar, I thought it would be worthwhile to reflect on the original “Strawberry” winners and update the restaurant and coffee-shop guide for discerning palettes visiting The Ganj.

Bhagsu Road

Llamo´s Croissant - advertised above the door as “Traditional French with an Amdo Twist” has a decent vegetarian menu and lots of home-made bakery snacks. The sun-roof is a great place to mellow out.

Nick´s has just been refurbished. Its vegetarian menu offers a variety of goodies including pizzas, Tibetan favourites and Lonely Planet continue to rave about the chocolate brownies and ice-cream. They also offer the best quiche in town.

JJI Exile Brothers offers a variety of vegetarian treats and does a very decent breakfast. The three brothers are excellent hosts.

The Jungle Hut has a wide-ranging veg and non-veg menu and still offers amazing views down the valley. The tandoori and curry dishes are good.

Jogiwara Road

McLLos suffered somewhat after a recent change in management; however i´m delighted to report normal service has been resumed. This remains a classic Ganj restaurant with an extensive multi-national menu. Pizzas are popular as indeed their curries and Chinese dishes. Their mutton roast is a classic. The roof-top terrace is a great place to hang out in the sun.


Malabar - Karhi chicken was a tasty bargain for only Rp75 and the addition of two pieces of garlic parathas, banana lassi and lime soda the total bill was a very reasonable Rp150. The Afghani chicken is also excellent. They will ask you how spicy you would like the food.


Snowlion Hotel and Restaurant near the old bus stand offers predominantly Tibetan cuisine and is popular and reasonably priced. The noodles are particularly popular.

Jimmy´s offers a good selection of Italian food and the roof-top sunroof offers an excellent breakfast. Their coffee is good and the truffle cake sublime. One of just a couple of places that i reckon i could get Pa to eat in.


Thongka´s is entered up the stairs of the pink building on Jogiwara Road. It offers cheap good Tibetan classics and the rooftop offers superlative views. When available, the fried mutton momos are awesome.

Oogo´s offers an almost identical menu to Jimmy´s. The food is always tasty, but lacks the ambience of Jimmy´s and staff sometimes gets stressed out.


Ashoka isn´t the cheapest eatery in town, but it does offer consistently good curries, tandoori and offers a number of Israeli dishes.



The Peace Café is a Tibetan run vegetarian place offering large portions at cheap prices. Particularly popular for breakfasts.


Carpe Diem, close to the steps leading down to Yongling school offers an adventurous menu, including Italian, Mexican, Indian, Tibetan and continental. The lasagnes (veg and non veg are popular and the chicken taco, different, tasty if not particularly authentic.

The Taste of India remains the top curry house in town. The food is consistently good and their tandooris are sublime.

Lung Ta Japanese vegetarian restaurant offers a choice of floor cushions or tables inside and out. Reasonably priced and always tasty it offers udon (Rs40), kakiagag (Rs60) and veg curry (Rs50). My particular favourite the creamy potato croquets are excellent. A side portion of wasabi is worth the extra Rs.10. It is open between 12pm – 8.30pm (closed on Sundays), but closed for December and January.

Seven Hills of Dokebi Nara Korean restaurant is a classic Ganj restaurant. The food tastes authentic and the menu extensive. The yang nyum tung dat (fried chicken in hot sweet sauce) , chicken bulgogi and omu (veg egg fried rice in tomato sauce with omelette wrap) are highly recommended. The restaurant boasts a large open fire which is lit during colder nights. A little pricey but worth it.

Oasis cafe offers reasonably priced snacks and does a good breakfast. It has nice comfy chairs.

Mai Thai restaurant serves a mix of vegetarian Thai dishes and a few Indian favourites including a very tasty chicken biryani.

Temple Road

Kailash Hotel at the top of Temple Road is popular and has a nice roof-top. I have eaten there twice and have been disappointed on both occasions.

Meeting Point cafe offers drinks, snacks and light refreshments with good views from the sun terrace. Although not the cheapest place in town, all profits go back into the Tibetan community.

Palwan Dhaba not only offers the best non-veg momos in town, but has plenty of other reasonably priced Indian dishes.


Moonpeak Thali is a stylish new restaurant on Temple Road. Thalis are its speciality with prices ranging from Rs100 for the veg, Rs120 for chicken and Rs140 mutton. My particular fav is the Mutton in apricots which at Rs170 is the most expensive dish on the menu – but so worth it.


Namgyal´s cafe by the Tsuglagkhang temple offers an excellent selection of vegetarian dishes. Worthy winners of the Top Pizza award, they also do yummy savoury pancakes and a mighty fine banana lassi.

Chonnor Lodge, close to the Tsuglagkhang temple still remains the Ganj classic. It might be more expensive than most of the restaurants, but all the dishes are high quality. As well as offering the best mutton in town, their soups, potato dishes and hummus plate are all excellent.

Boom Boom V down the Jogiwara Road has remained closed for the last seven months. Call in advance 91-981 603 6424

Pema Thang Reataurant and Guest House on the central junction between Jogiwara and Temple Roads offers fairly good pizzas and satisfactory momos as well. Lots of people rave about this place, but having eaten here twice i am not sure that it deserves such high accolades.

Café Life in The Ganj

Like all good travellist towns, there are many coffee shops scattered along Jogiwara and Temple Road. All serve South Indian coffee and usually have fresh baked goods for accompanying treats.

First Cup – situated close to Gu Chu Sum, it is quiet, has a range of treats and offers good coffee and hot chocolate.

Coffee Beans Lounge – found underground close to the old bus station on Jogiwara with computers and large screen TV, this places serves great coffees and exotic slush-puppies (fruity ice-based drinks). Winner of the “Strawberry” award in February, it has been usurped by the One Two café.

Moonpeak and Mandala´s Cafés – half way down Temple Road, these two places have a nice sun-terrace, regularly busy and now offer wi-fi and both have similar menus at similar prices too.


One Two Cafe – this new hot-spot is Tibetan run and found next to the Dalai Lama (Tsuglagkhang) temple. This is clearly the swishest coffee-house in town. Chairs and tables both inside and out and wi-fi is available. The coffee is good and they will harbour my somewhat stranger requests. It is particularly popular with monks.


Tenyang coffee house close to the temple remains a favourite both for coffee and most especially those wonderful banana/chocolate lassis.



And the Awards at the end of 2009 go to:

Best Curries - Taste of India

Best Banana Lassi – Namgyal Café

Best Coffee House – One Two Coffeehouse

Best Cake – Truffle cake at Jimmy´s

Best Mutton with Noodles dish – Snowlion Hotel

Chicken Biryani – Mai Thai restaurant

Best Quality Food – Chonor Lodge

Best Chinese food - McLLos

Best Pizza – Roquefort, Walnut and tomato - Namgyal Cafe

Best Chicken Momos – Palwan Dhabar

Best Italian food - Oogo´s

Best Roast Mutton - McLLos

Best Mutton Burgers – my own home-made ones - well done Aubs!

Best Tandoori - Taste of India

Best Chocolate / Banana Shake – Tenyang Cafe

Best Location for Views – Jungle Hut

Best Grocery Store – jointly awarded to Mega-store (Bhagsu Road) and UK Store (Temple Road)

Best Chocolate Balls – The Chocolate Log

Quiche – Nick´s Italian Kitchen

An Eye and a Lens on McLeod Ganj

A day of sunshine brought me out quite early again this morning and I am prepared to take my chances with the tigers.

I head into the forests and up towards Saint John in the Wilderness church. I haven´t been there for a long while and I had forgotten how tranquil the area is.

The surrounding forests are filled with evergreens, predominantly rhododendrons and pine. However, in the graveyard I come across this tree.


I have missed a proper autumn for many years now. I forget how beautiful it can be.

An Eye and a Lens on McLeod Ganj

I didn´t sleep much last night and feel emotionally fragile this morning. My head feels worse than an Eritrean refugee camp .

I get up at 8am, make an egg sandwich and some filter coffee and still feel crap, which is not helped when i find i can´t log in to The Internet. Nonetheless I want to make the most of my last few days in The Ganj.

By about 9 o´clock the sun is trying to push out from behind the clouds, so i grab my camera and head on to the kora.

It does bring me some piece of mind and as i come into the village, i decide to grab a few snaps for my upcoming Café and Restaurant Guide.

Half way up Temple Road and I see this person crouching at the side of the road. She holds out her wafer thin arms towards me for money. The mountain light is soft and gorgeous, so I ask for a few photos and she is happy to oblige. I have to reset the ISO rating and have only the standard 50mm lens with me, but nonetheless, I do love the results i get - she is a natural model and needs no direction. For photo-boffins who stumble upon this photo, it was taken with an ISO160 rating, f6.3 aperture at a 90th of a second exposure.


It should make my day, but it doesn´t.

As I head back to the apartment i note that the black llama-like goats are back, but despite an extensive search the Goatherd is nowhere to be seen.

Despite rehydrating regularly, i can´t shift the headache, and even a 74% cocoa gourmet orange chocolate treat can´t lift my spirits today.

Hoping for a better day tomorrow.

An Eye and a Lens on McLeod Ganj

Last year, I blogged a short piece on women builders.

Despite the village´s precarious placement on a steep Himalayan ridge, still they find room to develop more land space.

These women have been working on this site on Temple Road for about 8 months. They are working on a steep slope about 35 metres above street level.

I zoom in with my 80 – 300mm, but they still spot me amazingly quickly and stop work immediately. I wave and move on quickly.

A Room With A View - My Last Week in Bedsitland

I know that it is certainly not what my loving parents had in mind for me, but they know me well enough not to be shocked that at the age of almost 43 their favourite child has been living in a bedsit for the last 18 months.


I send Ma pics from my veranda, but surprisingly they remain unconvinced.


Khalia, landlord of Sidharth House is a friendly and generally helpful guy. He reduced the monthly rent from Rp 9000 for an extended stay and bought a much appreciated refrigerator, a rarity in McLeod Ganj apartments. One of the more expensive options it´s also one of the best quality rooms available. This particular at the end of the block offer a 180 degree pristine view and captures all the morning light on the large private veranda.


The light and the colours on the mountains changes constantly running through a complete spectrum of hues and time evaporates quickly.


With a free choice of Khalia´s plants i have enjoyed a wide selection of swiss cheese and umbrella plants as well as continuing to nurture my beloved orchids.

It´s location isn´t pefect for a quick “pop into the village” but the 300 steep steps I have to negotiate certainly keeps me fit.


Although i´ve coped pretty well with the 2 ring gas stove, i´ve really missed having an oven. Can´t believe how many clothes I have scrubbed for bucket hand-washes i´ve done in the last 18 months – who needs a washing machine? I´m also going to miss those invigorating bucket showers too – although I guess i´ll be doing pretty much the same on my road-trip through Africa.

A Buddhist "shrine" on the main shelf continually burns musk, sandalwood and jasmine on the incense holder.

Those starry Himalayan nights from the veranda will always be cherished.


Basic amenities are not always available unfortunately. Electricity and more inconveniently water regularly disappear, sometimes only 40 minutes or so, but water has disappeared for up to three days. Water shortages are now commonplace in Indian villages and towns, often relying on British built reservoirs which have not been updated in more than 50 years.

Nonetheless, the basic bedsit has served me well and i am unlikely to ever find another veranda that offers such a spectacular mountain panorama. An ideal hang-out for the photographer who can´t be assed to move far from their home to take snaps.



looking up to The Ganj

swampier times in The Ganj

an eagle perches nearby

turned into Oxford Brookes´ library

An Eye and a Lens on McLeod Ganj - Saddhus

single-toothed saddhu sleeping on the streets

I couldn´t resist putting up this photo from my day out today. It was taken close to the main temple and assorted monasteries on the back-paths of The Ganj. I tread carefully and take care with my shadow so as not to disturb his sleep.

The timing is a little strange, for I have just started uploading my favourite Saddhu shots on Facebook, These have be post-produced from the original album, although I think I prefer the picassa originals.

Saddhus are holymen that live an aesthetic and hermetic life in search of enlightenment.

What makes it even more bizarre is that this morning I have an opportunity to share tea and chapatti with The Ganj´s very own resident saddhu.

I call him Mr. Varanasi, for on our first encounter he insisted on passing me his prayer-beads and posing for a photo in exchange for Rs 50 which he tells me is for his bus ticket to Varanasi. K looks at me with complete disdain for she refuses to part with money for a photograph. One person´s "modelling fee" is another person´s "prostitution".

Mr. Varanasi - our resident saddhu

Heading to neighbouring Bhagsu this morning I meet up with a 2nd generation Tibetan called Nanjal. He invites me for a smoke in a local tea-hut.

He is friends with Mr. Varanasi and regularly passes a few rupees in exchange for blessing on his handicraft business. Nanjal tells me that the saddhu has been based in The Ganj´s Shiva temple, just off the Bhagsu Road for the last 20 years.

Mr Varanasi eyes up my camera and urges me for hard cash. Again, he tries to thrust his prayer-beads on me. Despite his best efforts I resist, but I do buy his breakfast for Rs 15.

20 years of hanging out in The Ganj…what a lucky Saddhu indeed. I´ll come back in 10 years and offer to go into Saddhu apprenticeship, although orange and pastel shades don´t really work for me.

the Shiva temple - home of The Ganj´s very own Saddhu

To add to the spookiness of the day I am blessed with a phone-call from my ex-student Rinchen. I haven´t heard from him for more than six months. He is returning to the Ganj when his school in Mandi breaks up for Winter and asks if we can meet up.

I´m too disappointed for we´re going to miss each other by just a couple of days. At least we got a chance to say goodbye and he promises to stay in touch via email. I am disappointed to note he seems to have made little progress with his English.

Life On A Skateboard

Every city, town and village in India has beggars. And with its compassionate Tibetan population as well as a transient international population, Mcleod Ganj probably has more than most for its size.

Walk down The Ganj´s two roads, the Temple kora or head on the roads out to Dharamkot or Bhagsu and you´ll find them, or indeed, they will find you.

I have put a couple of postings on beggars before and specifically to the scamming by the South Indian women in the village.

I know almost all of the long term beggars and greet them with a Namaste, palms together. I very rarely give with no real rhyme or reason in deciding whether I do or don´t. I am more likely to give when I am on the kora, and I always give a “modeling fee” if i take a photo. Mainly it depends on how much small change I have on me at the time.

It can be somewhat disturbing, with many victims of elephantiasis, polio, and other forms of mutilation and disfigurement.

Many live life on a skateboard. This guy wheels himself up and down Temple Road all day and the slope is considerable. I am often tempted to offer to push him up the hill when I see him struggling up, but I resist every time.

He looks particularly miserable today so I offer to take his photo. That puts the smile back on his face. I take just a couple of quick shots and show him the results. Cheekily, he asks for Rs 20, but I only give him Rs 10. What a tight ass!

The Tibetan Community

Tibetans and Tibetan Buddhism are inextricably linked. In the West, whilst many would proclaim to have some religious affiliation, Tibetan people – young and old, male and female - live and breathe Buddhism every day.

As much as a general philosophy as it is a religion, Buddhism holds appeal to many. Acceptance of others, love, compassion, as of course, peace to all sentient beings - all pretty cool stuff.

Although in India, McLeod Ganj boasts a large Tibetan community and is often known as "Little Lhasa". Indeed, there are more Tibetans than Indians in the village. As home to the Dalai Lama, many Tibetan refugees flock here from religious and political persecution. This contrasts with Lhasa which boasts as many Han Chinese as it does Tibetans. The Ganj is also the centre for the Tibetan Government in Exile.

As the World is now pretty much well aware, Tibetans have faced cultural genocide since the Chinese invasion and colonisation of their land in 1949. The behaviour of the Chinese has broken all sense of human rights and simple humanitarian decency.

Very much aware of the dangers his people have faced, Dalai Lama has dedicated his time not only travelling the World to highlight their plight, single-handedly developed a Government in Exile, but perhaps most importantly, has also done much to preserve what remains of the Tibetan culture. The projects at TIPA- The Tibetan Institute of the Performing Arts and the Norbulingka Institute are outstanding example of this – teaching, educating and training artisans in dance, drama, music and cultural handicrafts.

This does not mean that Tibetan life and culture can´t develop and move on however. In recent speeches, Dalai Lama has asked Tibetans to throw out old superstitions and prepare to be 21st Century global citizens.

Every Tibetan in the village has a tragic story to tell. I have been grateful to work as a teacher of English conversation classes for Gu Chu Sum – a charity for Tibetan refugees, and my students like Rinchen and Panden provided me with interesting first-hand insights - as well as sharing family stories and good food; friends as well as students.

all have a story to tell

The students have all oozed enthusiasm, as much for the company as for developing English skills. Although my true “environment” is in Early Years classrooms teaching across many curricular areas, i have still thoroughly enjoyed the experience and it has further enriched my stay in The Ganj.

The World has a moral obligation to preserve all its beauty. How can i not feel so disappointed that the World has done so little for the Tibetan people? Time is running out and the World needs to take action now.

Fortunately, we are all in a position to help. Wear the Tibetan flag and talk about it to others to highlight Tibet´s plight. Boycott all Chinese goods. Write to your leaders, both local and National asking for them to take a moral stance on Tibet. Write to Obama demanding an end to China´s colonization. Petition China demanding it stops human rights abuses in Tibet.

All "great" empires eventually fall (and if nothing else, doesn´t Buddhism constantly remind us that nothing is permanent?) – Greeks, Romans, Hapsburgs, Nazis et al. Take comfort in the fact the PRC is in the process of dying as i write and it will eventually be usurped. I just wish it would hurry up.

Some of My Best Friends are Monks

Alright…I confess i´m a complete heathen.

Despite my culturally Jewish background, I have been an atheist for as long as I can remember. I can often be particularly scathing of Christianity, most forms of organized religion and any form of religious fundamentalism and extremism. The number of deaths caused under the banner of religion throughout the history of human existence is both outrageous and sickening.

I have also abused my body to excess and lived life to the full, if not always in the most appropriate of ways.

Yet somewhat ironically, my two best friends during my 18 month stay in The Ganj have been South Asian monks.

Both Phra Phi Tun (from Northern Thailand) and Mhue (from South Vietnam) became regular visitors for coffee and alcohol respectively. They were also welcoming in inviting me to share their food on several memorable occasions.

Both Phi Tun and Mhue share several commonalities – beyond just being Buddhist monks. They are kind, generous, thoughtful, giving, welcoming, peaceful, honest, humble and extremely loving and friendly.

I can only presume that they are just exercising compassion for the fallen.

Mhue - not only a friend but a new brother and fresh coffee supplier


Phra Phi Tun not only made an excellent coffee-bud, his Thai chicken soup and fried chicken were amazing

Village People

People can make places very special and McLeod Ganj is no different.

It is called Little Lhasa for good reason. The population is predominantly made up of Tibetans-in-Exile and many of them are practicing monks and nuns. Tibetans are nothing if resourceful, and many other lay-persons run handicraft stalls, restaurants, hotels, shops, bakeries and increasingly travel agencies.

It has been said that there is friction and resentment between the Tibetan and local population, but I have only heard vague grumbles a couple of times from Indians, and it is certainly isn´t openly visible on the streets. By and large it is a much more symbiotic relationship. The travellist is attracted by the Tibetan population and HH Dalai Lama, and the local Indian businesses reap the benefits of the tourist dollar.

Travelling around India, the international travellist is likely to be outrageously over-charged at several points on their trip whether from dishonest taxi or rickshaw drivers, craft shops and most notoriously from travel agents. Despite being popular with travellists, McLeod Ganj is remarkably hassle-free of this. I´m not sure why this is the case, but it´s great! I have had shop-keepers chase me down the road to return my change.

Another common gripe of visitors to India is the hassles of the constant barrage of wide-ranging offers from drugs, handicrafts, tours and hotels. Again, this doesn´t really happen here in the village.

It has been like living in India, without all the accompanying hassles. Perfect!

I´ve selected a few of my favourite portraits taken from my Facebook album entitled “Village People” taken over the last 18 months - I hope you enjoy them.

a passing Sadhu

beggar woman by the temple


handsome chap on the Bhagsu Road

shoe-shine boy on Temple Road

beggar woman on the temple kora

monk at the Dalai Lama teachings

monks at the Dalai Lama temple

resident from Jambaling Home for Elders

young anti Beijing Olympic games protester

A Village Beauty

So were you impressed by Miss Tibet? Based on aesthetics (subjective i know), i wasn´t at all.

A walk around town or even a visit to my next door neighbour, offers more perfect examples of Tibetan beauty.

A few romances do occur between international travellists and the Tibetan community in exile.

I have previously posted about relationships between Western women and Tibetan monks; according to Sarah McDonald in Holy Cow, about 60 – 80 defrock due to the ardent attention given by Western “Buddhist” women. But of course physical love is not limited to the clergy.

There are several Tibetan men married and with children to Western women that live in the village. I also see a few Tibetan women with Western males (almost exclusively student with English teacher), holding hands in the street, but few of these relationships seem to last long.

Bear with me please, for i need to take a jump here.

I´m used to a wide variety of livestock that live around my bedsit; chickens and goats predominantly, with the occasional donkeys and ubiquitous cows . Recently i noticed some new black goats. They´re absolutely huge, resembling more South American Llamas.

Yesterday, heading to the Dalai Lama Temple kora i come across these goats again. Squatting on the side of Jogiwara Road are a local farmer, his wife and a child about 4 or 5 years old.

The man is about my age, thickset, and with a monstrously bushy moustache, puffing on a shrivelled bidi.

His wife, probably in her mid 30s is probably the most beautiful woman i have ever set eyes on – literally breath-taking. She radiates beauty from every single pore. Her complexion is picture perfect with an almost ethereal glow, and she is enveloped in a sensual crimson sari with silver trim.

Their expressionless faces follow me as i stride down the road with my MP3 blaring.

As i draw up level, their boy stands up, beams a beautiful smile and salutes me. I return his salute and both he and his mother are delighted. I have my camera with me, but feel frozen by her intense magnificence to take a picture of her. Bloody drats!!! I hate to lose photographic opportunities and i kick myself at this wasted moment.

Having now written this up, i realise it becomes somewhat a lame posting. However you can bet your bottom dollar i´ll get a photo of her in my last 20 days in The Ganj.

Editor´s Addition: The llama-like goats have disappeared as did my Goat-woman. I reckon her husband clearly felt threatened by my adoring eyes on his wife. Double Drats! Lol

World Aids Day in McLeod Ganj

Despite being just a small village in the Indian Himalaya, with such an international and politically aware community, it seems appropriate that World Aids Day is recognized in The Ganj.

It´s a deliciously sunny and warm this morning as I head towards the Main Temple. I arrive just after 9am where morning prayers are finishing off and a dozen or so officials from the Tibetan HIV centre on Bhagsu Road are setting up chairs and distributing T-shirts,red ribbons and information pamphlets.



monks watch on

Hard data has been difficult to collect, but since the Chinese occupation and increasing Han settlements the rate of prostitution had risen dramatically throughout Tibet, not least targeting the 300,000 Chinese soldiers deployed in the area.

The organizers have arranged a Fun Run to neighbouring Bhagsu and back. There are about 40 or so runners aged between 15 to 40, and although predominantly Tibetan, there are dozen Indians and about the same number of passing international travellists.

Speeches are delivered in Tibetan, first by the Project Leader and then a five minute speech from Tenzin Choezom, Miss Tibet 2009.

Miss Tibet 2009

The runners who have now been waiting in the sun for almost an hour are keen to move, and Miss Tibet is finally given the scissors to cut the starting ribbon at around 10.50am.

at the starting line

I boldly approach Miss Tibet and ask her if she would give me a few poses against a nearby tree. Not looking 100% comfortable, she does acquiesce and I try to put her at some kind ofease by blathering on about what a special honour it is to take her portrait. Suddenly everyone in a possession of camera come running over and the shoot is hijacked almost as soon as it has begun.