An Eye and a Lens on McLeod Ganj - Saddhus

single-toothed saddhu sleeping on the streets

I couldn´t resist putting up this photo from my day out today. It was taken close to the main temple and assorted monasteries on the back-paths of The Ganj. I tread carefully and take care with my shadow so as not to disturb his sleep.

The timing is a little strange, for I have just started uploading my favourite Saddhu shots on Facebook, These have be post-produced from the original album, although I think I prefer the picassa originals.

Saddhus are holymen that live an aesthetic and hermetic life in search of enlightenment.

What makes it even more bizarre is that this morning I have an opportunity to share tea and chapatti with The Ganj´s very own resident saddhu.

I call him Mr. Varanasi, for on our first encounter he insisted on passing me his prayer-beads and posing for a photo in exchange for Rs 50 which he tells me is for his bus ticket to Varanasi. K looks at me with complete disdain for she refuses to part with money for a photograph. One person´s "modelling fee" is another person´s "prostitution".

Mr. Varanasi - our resident saddhu

Heading to neighbouring Bhagsu this morning I meet up with a 2nd generation Tibetan called Nanjal. He invites me for a smoke in a local tea-hut.

He is friends with Mr. Varanasi and regularly passes a few rupees in exchange for blessing on his handicraft business. Nanjal tells me that the saddhu has been based in The Ganj´s Shiva temple, just off the Bhagsu Road for the last 20 years.

Mr Varanasi eyes up my camera and urges me for hard cash. Again, he tries to thrust his prayer-beads on me. Despite his best efforts I resist, but I do buy his breakfast for Rs 15.

20 years of hanging out in The Ganj…what a lucky Saddhu indeed. I´ll come back in 10 years and offer to go into Saddhu apprenticeship, although orange and pastel shades don´t really work for me.

the Shiva temple - home of The Ganj´s very own Saddhu

To add to the spookiness of the day I am blessed with a phone-call from my ex-student Rinchen. I haven´t heard from him for more than six months. He is returning to the Ganj when his school in Mandi breaks up for Winter and asks if we can meet up.

I´m too disappointed for we´re going to miss each other by just a couple of days. At least we got a chance to say goodbye and he promises to stay in touch via email. I am disappointed to note he seems to have made little progress with his English.