I know that it is certainly not what my loving parents had in mind for me, but they know me well enough not to be shocked that at the age of almost 43 their favourite child has been living in a bedsit for the last 18 months.
I send Ma pics from my veranda, but surprisingly they remain unconvinced.
Khalia, landlord of Sidharth House is a friendly and generally helpful guy. He reduced the monthly rent from Rp 9000 for an extended stay and bought a much appreciated refrigerator, a rarity in McLeod Ganj apartments. One of the more expensive options it´s also one of the best quality rooms available. This particular at the end of the block offer a 180 degree pristine view and captures all the morning light on the large private veranda.
The light and the colours on the mountains changes constantly running through a complete spectrum of hues and time evaporates quickly.
With a free choice of Khalia´s plants i have enjoyed a wide selection of swiss cheese and umbrella plants as well as continuing to nurture my beloved orchids.
It´s location isn´t pefect for a quick “pop into the village” but the 300 steep steps I have to negotiate certainly keeps me fit.
Although i´ve coped pretty well with the 2 ring gas stove, i´ve really missed having an oven. Can´t believe how many clothes I have scrubbed for bucket hand-washes i´ve done in the last 18 months – who needs a washing machine? I´m also going to miss those invigorating bucket showers too – although I guess i´ll be doing pretty much the same on my road-trip through Africa.
A Buddhist "shrine" on the main shelf continually burns musk, sandalwood and jasmine on the incense holder.
Those starry Himalayan nights from the veranda will always be cherished.
Basic amenities are not always available unfortunately. Electricity and more inconveniently water regularly disappear, sometimes only 40 minutes or so, but water has disappeared for up to three days. Water shortages are now commonplace in Indian villages and towns, often relying on British built reservoirs which have not been updated in more than 50 years.
Nonetheless, the basic bedsit has served me well and i am unlikely to ever find another veranda that offers such a spectacular mountain panorama. An ideal hang-out for the photographer who can´t be assed to move far from their home to take snaps.
looking up to The Ganj.JPG)
swampier times in The Ganj.JPG)
an eagle perches nearby
turned into Oxford Brookes´ library
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