Zanzibar Town

Lying in the Indian Ocean off the mainland of Tanzania just six degrees south of the Equator lies the Zanzibar archipelago. The famed “Spice Islands” are actually Unguja and Pemba, and it is the former that is referred to Zanzibar.

Ferries leave Dar Es Salaam regularly every day. I opt for the Sea Horse – the slow-boat (and therefore cheaper option – foreigners pay US$20). It departs opposite St Joseph’s Church at 12.15pm. The touts surrounding the ticket office are robust to say the least! Just say “No!”

Arriving on Zanzibar is like arriving into a new country with passports stamped and immigration and health cards required.

The Arab and Indian influences remain prevalent throughout the city and Islam influence predominates throughout

For the first time since Cape Town during the World Cup finals I feel swamped by tourists and by the ubiquitous tourist touts. No doubt about it, these guys have gotten it down to a fine art with guided tours offered in Spanish, Italian and even Russian.

This place should be a highlight of the trip, and was probably amazing 20 years ago. It still is, but like Venice, it has been irreparably tarnished by mass tourism, and I am part of the problem.

Stone Town in the heart of the town centre is rightly a World Heritage Site. The labyrinth of small streets and alleys are fascinating to stroll round, although huge swathes of the shops are now geared to expensive arts and crafts boutiques and other tourist paraphernalia.

the best preserved buildings are the boutique hotels

ornate door designs predominate throughout Stone Town

spooky traditional tribal mask

There are some terrific museum options, but I plumb just for the National Museum, the Palace Museum and the Slave Market. I only get a student price for the museums which is excellent – detailed, informative and with some cracking views over the city from the Library.

the top of the National Museum

view from the top of the National Museum

The Old Fort has been turned into a menagerie of craft shops. There is also a pub and a stage with live performances several nights a week.

No visit can be complete to Stone Town, Zanzibar without paying homage to the childhood house of Farok Bolsara aka Freddie Mercury.

Born is Stone Town on 5th September 1946, Freddie grew up in the house until at the age of nine he was sent to India to attend St Peter’s boarding school just outside Bombay.

Not surprisingly it is now a Craft shop.

Freddie's childhood home

Accommodation options vary from around US$25 to several hundred for a night. I check out both Malindi Guest House (tasteful olde worlde rooms from US$35 unattached) and Malindi Lodge from US$25 both including breakfast. The former boasts an authentic Thai roof-top restaurant. Hotel Marine gives me a 25% discount and has free wifi.

Eating options are also plentiful, generally good quality and expensive. I do splurge at the Silk Road Indian restaurant for high quality samosas and a chicken biryani.

The night food-market opposite the National Museum offers slightly cheaper options but be prepared to bargain hard with some of the stall holders, notoriously the kebab barbecue vendors. Here you can find the “Zanzibar Pizza” which comes in both savory and fruity varieties. At TSh2000 a piece this has to be one of the best options in town.

During the day te town feels very safe, but i'm recommended not to carry valuables after 10pm and to take taxis at night.

I come away from the town somewhat disappointed, especially comparing it to Ila de Mozambique which is almost hassle-free and a working town non-reliant on the tourist trade. It appears to be the Venice equivalent of Africa – you can see the beauty and attraction of the place, but mass tourism has taken away its soul.

Sultan's Palace - now the Palace Museum

another passing dhow at sunset