Slow Boat to Pemba

Pemba is the “other" island of Zanzibar and lies some 50kms to the north of Unguja.

Fast ferries run every day from Zanzibar but will cost over US$40. The local slow-boat is US$21/US$26/US31 for basic/reserved seat/ 4 birth cabin. Payment must be made in US dollars. It departs every day except Mondays at 6pm and arrives in the following morning at 10am.

Like it’s counterpart in Dar Es Salaam, the port is hassly and touts persistently step in your way. Check out the boat tickets for yourself and save yourself a few extra bucks.

Ying jokes that i am a tight-ass, but i defend myself. Long term travelling requires budget measures, especially when a wage-check hasn’t arrived for some 30 months.

I thought i’d got yet another bargain by taking the overnight slow-boat to Pemba, but it kinda backfires.

I board the boat at 6pm with a 9pm departure scheduled. By 9.30 we are still in Zanzibar dock, but the lights go out. As indeed does the air-con in the “Tourist Cabin” of which I am the only tourist. We’re soon sweating like hyperactive pigs without deodorant.

By 1am we’re still in dock, but the electricity returns. At about 2am, panic breaks out. Women are crying and the babies and luggage are passed through the port-holes – i am told the boat is sinking. I wait for the crowds to subside before taking my bags up the stairs and off the boat. There is nothing else for it, but to head back for another night at Hotel Marine.

Returning next morning we are invited back onto the boat at 8am, but don’t actually set sail until midday. Fortunately there are two canteens on the boat where snacks and drinks are available, including a free pilau rice meal.


Unfortunately the toilets which clearly haven’t been cleaned since the previous day and the smell emanating from the Gents is completely shocking.

The boat docks by 8pm and i am delighted to flee. Although only half the price of the fast ferries, i kinda regret my choice in vessel.

POSTSCRIPT: This ship was later to sink in September 2011 due to over-loading. It resulted in the drowning of 197 passengers making it the worst maritime disaster in the islands documented history.