Kigaboni

Masai warriors patrol the beach

It doesn’t take long to leave the bustling streets of Dar Es Salaam and escape to some of Africa’s most attractive beaches.

From the waterfront, between the Zanzibar boats and the fish market runs the Kigamboni ferry. The journey is less than 15 minutes and costs Tsh100. From here head south for some 8kms (Tsh4000 by taxi) to some outstanding white beaches.

I start off staying in Kipepeo Village and Campsite established by an Austrian couple. They provide a mixture of accommodation options, from camping, basic shared facility bandas fromTsh21,000 to more deluxe cottages from US$50+. They also have a bar and grill on site which ias a little pricey with most main meals totaling Tsh13,000. Thus I transfer for the second night next door which is Tsh15000 with attached bathroom and self catering facilities. Another food option with very reasonable prices is the RV restaurant in the village.

An island off the mainland in front of the beach offers bandas and snorkeling. It can be organized via Kipepeo but it is much cheaper to ask any of the local fisherfolk.

Lulu’s bar is very popular with the locals with dance-shows and karaoke-style sing-alongs.

At night the ocean is filled with lights from a swathe of fishing boats.

a jogger at dawn

I am warned several times not to carry valuables on the beach including money-belt and camera.