Pemba

Step onto Zanzibar’s “second island” and leave those tourists and their bandwagon of touts behind. The island is quite beautiful and very peaceful. After the tourist insurgence of Zanzibar, i don’t see another mzungu during my stay.

There is some rivalry between the two islands; most of Pemba’s inhabitants are from Omani descent with a far more cosmopolitan population on Unguja. The friendly locals on Pemba laugh at the hecticness of Zanzibar and boasts a crime-free island, although on my journey out of the island i have my mobile and flashlight snatched out of my bag.

friendly locals request a family and friend portrait

Although it lacks much of the history of Unguja and the lavish architecture, this hilly island is verdant with all kinds of fruit and vegetable crops growing in the fields.

Nonetheless, there does seem a suspicious uniformity on accommodation prices as well as prices charged for meals.

Arriving into Mkoani late at night i turn left outside the port and head up the hill to Panorama Beach Lodge (tel no. 024256166). It is spanking new with bungalows at US$35+ per room, but i take a dorm bed at US$20 all including a hearty breakfast. It is shiny and clean and i have it all to myself. The food is also good with meals costing Tsh10,000. It is next door to the Jondeni Guesthouse with identical prices for rooms and food.

view from Panorama Beach Lodge

Boats can be rented for US$20+ to visit neighbouring islands, and there is little else to do as the village is somewhat dull.

Moslem school-girls on the way home

I move through the island heading north taking a brief stopover in Chake- Chake which is the main hub for the island. It is the nearest town to the internal airport and has a busy market place and a couple of ATMS. Regular dala-dalas run regularly throughout the day and cost Tsh1,000.

Masha, a friend from Stone Town has recommended me to Verani Beach Resort on the North Coast. From Chake - Chake open-sided dala-dalas leave when full to Konde in the northern tip of Pemba. It costs Tsh1,500 and takes about two hours.

The journey onwards is somewhat tricky. I end up hitching a ride with a local police officer with a Vespa for the 10km journey. Motorbikes seem to charge a standard Tsh15,000 whilst a car/taxi/truck/dala-dala for Tsh20,000. The journey is beautiful and goes through a nearby National Park with monkeys chasing through the vines of this primary rainforest.

Verani Beach resort is a locally owned and run guest house. It is somewhat basic with no electricity. Bungalows are US$45 including breakfast, but camping is also available. Meals can be ordered in advance for Tsh10,000.

beach-hut at Verani's

The waters sparkle along the beachfront which is a combination of rocks and the fine white sand.

the beach at Verani's

There are several dive outfits on the island that can also run snorkelling trips, but i am informed that the dive-sites are challenging and not for the unpractised recreational divers like myself.

The port town of Wete is somewhat ramshackle. There are at least two guest houses here including Sharouk and Umbrella.

If prices were cheaper i would have happily extended my stay, but the island seem to have priced themselves out from the long-term budget traveller.