Livingstonia

town centre including the clock-tower of Livingstnia University

The original colonialisation of Malawi by the British and the entrenchment of the Christian missionaries originated from this somewhat surprising township high in the mountains of northern Malawi.

town houses

At more than 1300 metres up, this town has a very quiet and isolated feel with classic examples of British Victorian architecture. There are several historical buildings in town including Stone House, the church (built in 1894 with a stained gleassed window featuring my predecessor David Livingstone)and the memorial hospital.

the church built in 1894

the hospital

It is an isolated spot indeed with access fairly prohibitive. Lij Fire and I come up through the main road from Rumphi to Chitimba. From here it is some 15kms up a steep escarpment on a track only fit for 4wd and trucks. Lonely Planet says it is a four hour hike, but six looks more reasonable an estimate to the town centre. Fortunate to pick up a ride within 2 hours of waiting at the junction, we hike down in two and a half hours taking all the steep shortcuts. It is possible to take the old road up to Livinstonia direct from Rumphi, but it takes a huge amount of time - i met an Italian who took 14 hours to complete this route.

Whilst the Mushroom Farm has gained almost legendary status on the African backpackers circuit, it is some 7kms from the town centre. Whilst accommodation prices remain good, like Mayoka Village in Nkarta Bay, food prices are high. We stay at Stone House, one of several historical monuments in town. Built in 1903 by Dr Robert Laws who established the first mission in Malawi, it is like staying in a museum. Indeed it does have its very own museum too. It has an excellent location close to the centre of town. Dorm beds are K1400 per person and they also arrange guided tours. The beef and beans are good from their kitchen too.

The Stone House

I particularly appreciate the Craft Coffee Shop with Mzuzu coffee and cheap handicrafts and artifacts on sale with all profits going to the local hospital. Their doughnuts and banana cake are recommended and they also sell red banana jam and locally produced honey.

Craft Coffee Shop

There ia a path that takes you to the Manchewe Falls and Cave which was used a hide-out during slave trading.

There is no ATM available so make sure you bring enough cash.

evening light