Kazwiri Zwiri coal mine

Travel Advisor Brother Bubba tells me to leave the tourist trail as much as possible. Some 12 kilometres outside of Livingstonia is the Kazwiri Zwiri coal mine. It has been a high priority for Lij Fire to bring me here.

Coal mining is not the only mining activity going on in this region. Several uranium operations can be seen in action on hills opposite the Stone House in Livingstonia.

Mining sucks in any country. Back in my student days I took to the streets of London to show my support of British miners during the infamous miners’ strikes of the 1980s and now 30 years later i’m off championing their cause in Malawi.

I am first introduced to Harley Musghaniki one of the Village Heads and owner of the land. His grandfather used to supply the coal both to the British during the construction of Livingstonia as well as the Ilala ferry that operates on Lake Malawi.

After a government survey came in, permission was granted for formal mining to be tendered out, and given to a German and Malawian partnership.

Operations began in 1988 and workers were employed from the local area. The mining operation continues to develop and grow whilst the quality of equipment and services remains primitive at best. Under-housed, under-resourced, underpaid and exploited in a dirty industry on a daily basis, the money is equally tarnished.

housing conditions in the village







After climbing down over three mountains we enter the village of Phoka. They clearly don’t get any camera-touting tourists in these parts and there is a strange air of secrecy which pervades for the entire stay. Houses look battered and poor and the village silent apart from a TV blaring music videos from the only thoroughfare.

Main (and only) Street


I walk down to the security gate and a large yellow sign stating “No Authorised Entry.” I am greeted very unenthusiastically by three security guards. I introduce myself and ask if I can “wander about” and take some photos. I am expected to be told to bugger off, but instead I am asked to give my name and where I am from. Aubrey from London I tell them and the single male goes off, returning with a middle aged white Australian woman called C.

C informs me she is in charge of the Personnel Department of some 181 people on their payroll for a while. The German owner Wolfgang is at the coal face and i will need his permission to enter. I begin strolling round with her asking her questions and trying to snap away as discreetly as possible as a tall msugu (white man) with a Nikon D200 can.

in the top mining area - some "antiquated" resources







She tells me she has been at the company for close to a year and her background is actually in healthcare. She describes the operation as “somewhat prehistoric”. Miners are paid based on wheelbarrow loads from the pit face only. She claimed that whilst conditions were basic, housing and schooling were provided as well as access to her clinic. I ask her about industrial accidents and she rather sweeps it away - “nothing serious”.

Although there is a sizeable generator only the two expats and the Malawian owner have electricity in their houses rather luxurious houses.

She tells me she has been battling since her arrival to improve the local school. It is a government school but the mining company pay for three of the five teachers. The 260 students have access from Primary One through Seven. Primary Eight is only available another two and a half kilometers away and the children often have to board there. There is not enough desks or chairs, nowhere enough textbooks, no glass in the school windows and a grass roof that leaks in the wet season. Indeed the teacher I spoke to had been there three years and was completely dispirited by the situation. Pretty much like every soul I spoke to in the village.

the village school

inside the classroom

the staff room

C. wanders off to the clinic and i go in search of workers in the mining community.

My first victim is Mark who has been working since the age of 16 as a driver. His family live outside the village in a house he had to build himself over the last six years. Working a seven day week, the shift is not too long – from 7am to 4pm, but his salary amounts to US$1 a day! I don’t get out of bed for that sort of money!

Robert has been working as a crusher at the mine for the last seven years. He is provided with a plastic and fabric breathing mask which provides virtually no protection from the dust deposits on an industrial coalface. Again he tells me he has built his own house with no help from the company at all. His shifts are either 1am – 2pm or 2pm – 10pm and he gets paid a massive US$45 per month. However, he is a particularly enterprising guy and he has now independently started a small grocery shop in the village. Desperately unhappy he hopes he can leave the company next year.

Unfortunately unemployment is extremely high in Malawi and alternatives are so few and far between.

It has been a while so i decide to be proactive and go in search of Wolfgang. And snap a few more photos at the same time. Still no sign. We chat to the alienated security guards in the booth, There are apparently a force of some 27 which makes me think that things other than coal might be being mined here.

Suddenly i see a white and very German looking guy heading to an imitation Japanese Sayyong 4wd. As I begin to head towards him he quickly drives off in the opposite direction.

With no chance of getting further towards the pit face for some action pics and interviews with the coal-face miners we call it a day.

Certainly off the beaten tourist track and a fascinating insight.