Dar Es Salaam

from the waterfront

Apart from Cape Town, i generally don’t like African cities, and normally i stock up on supplies, find a couple of choice restaurants and skedaddle.

Not in the same league as Cape Town, nonetheless Dar Es Salaam is really quite good. It has a compact city centre, some friendly and very helpful locals and a few attractions to offer a passing travellist. It also boasts a great melting pot kinda feel. Africans, Arabs and Indians collide their cultural and religious backgrounds in good harmony, a mix of architectural styles from colonial to post-modern, and of course some interesting cuisine options.

Landmarks Around Dar Es Salaam





The National Museum is a must see, with some truly quality exhibitions, including Tanzania’s fight for independence and freedom, natural history, ethnography and the skulls from the cradle of civilization dating back some 1.75 million years ago from Olduvai Gorge in the volcanic north of Tanzania. Ii is open daily from 9.30am – 6pm.


African sculpture in wood

skull dating back 1.75 million years ago - the cradle of civilization

A walk along the bustling waterfront offers stall dining experiences as well as to the fish market. Even for a non-seafood eater it is an interesting sight with swathes of sardines, tuna, mackerel, barracuda, octopus, squid, prawns and even sailfish. Wearing my sandals was not a sensible choice however.

around the fish market

My favourite restaurant find has to be the Red Onion, located at the Haidery Plaza opposite the YWCA. This rooftop restaurant probably isn’t the cheapest Indian restaurant in town, but the chicken tandoori was exquisite. Chef's Pride on Chagga Street is a longstanding backpackers' favourite with a huge menu. Whilst several of the dishes appear to be unavailable, what is available is good.

herbal medicines for sale on the street

Staying in the YWCA offers the cheapest central option, but unfortunately a somewhat noisy one too. At TSh10000 per person in a double or triple for it’ll do perfect. It is best to book ahead.