A Leap Into The Dark: A Town Called Addis

Addis Ababa - Amharic for "New Flower" - was described by a foreigner in the 19th Century a “noisy, dusty, sprawling and shambolic”. Clearly nothing has changed more than 100 years later.

With a population in excess of four million people it is Africa’s fourth largest city.

Walking the streets of the city centre on my first morning, it is surprisingly modern with high-rise buildings and plenty of affluent-looking people strolling around. However, interspersed with this are corrugated shanty areas and even tented communities reminding me of Port au Prince. Beggars (both Christian and Muslim) openly beg on the streets or along the minibus stops amongst the bustle of pedestrians. An old guy openly squats on a main thoroughfare in the city centre urinating on the sidewalk and nobody bats an eyelid. There is also something of Delhi and Mumbai here; the disparity of wealth is vicious.

shiny buildings amongst the squalor

Local family homes are being demolished all over the city in Ethiopia’s 10 Year Development Plan for Addis – a modern 21st century city. Clearly still a long way to go, as those evicted from their family homes are offered no recompense, thus forming the tented community.

mass demolition as part as the 10 Year Plan

My first stop has to be the huge ornate Holy Trinity cathedral – Ethiopia’s second-most important place of worship. It is the resting place of Haile Selasse in a lavish Aksumite-style granite tomb next to his wife complete with lion’s feet. Tourist entrance fee is Birr 30 including a guided tour by a priest and guide. My guide is very keen to point out the grave of English suffragette Sylvia Pankhurt who died in Addis in 1960. It is found just off Niger Street.

the priest/gate-keeper will pose for a photo - even if he is pretty pissed at my offer of Birr10

The Derg monument is a classic Communist monolith with typical Soviet style sculptures and wall murals. Entrance is Birr 5 and a further Birr 10 to use The Beast. It is located on Churchill Avenue, opposite the Main Post Office.

The National Museum is interesting and informative. There is a collection of fossils, the highlight being “Lucy” – a 3.2 million year old hominid. She is the first example of a human form walking on two legs, discovered in 1974 in the north east of country. There are also costumes and crowns of the Ethiopian royal family, including the lavish throne of Haile Selasse. On the top floor there is an exhibition of some excellent black and white photographs of Christian ceremonies.

Haille Selassie's throne

The Ethnological museum is on the campus of the beautiful Addis Ababa University – the site of Haile Selasse’s palace. You can check out his and the Empress’ bedroom as well as acquaint yourself with the myriad tribes and distinct cultures in Ethiopia. Photography is strictly prohibited.

Haille Selassie's Palace - now part of the University of Addis and the Ethnological Museum

Places To Stay:

Originally i install myself into the Lido Hotel on Sudan Street. It is spotlessly clean and comfortable with attached bathroom, but at Birr 345 (including tax) beyond my budget. I know Gloves will like it. However to pinch pennies i relocate to to the friendlier Wutma Hotel on Mundy street where a clean room with attached bathroom is Birr 160.

Undoubtedly my personal favourite however is Hotel Itegue Ituate. Built in 1897 by the Empress of the same name, it is the oldest hotel in Ethiopia. Rooms start from Birr 138.

Places To Eat:

For some real quality local fare, check out the Habesha restaurant on Bola (African) Road.. Mains start from around Birr 45. Local musicians and dancers perform nightly from 8pm. Open log fires keep customers warm on cold evenings and avoids being called up to dance. “Moves” were divided into three
1) double jointed shoulder shrugs
2) lots of food stomping – think of slow motion Irish Stomp?
3) Thrusting groins (and accompanying breast shaking by the nubile female dancers)

i have the good fortune to hook up with Betina, a German born, internationally educated journalist based in Hong Kong. She provides quality company and possesses an up-to-date travel guide. They first forget our drinks order and then forget our food order. Our tibbs (stewed lamb, cooked in a lush onion, pepper and tomato) is quality. I subsequently dine here with Gloves and the food is equally impressive.

I take Derbo (friend and fixer in Addis) to the Sheraton Hotel. Owned by an Ethiopian, the opulence is staggering – no wonder rooms begin from US500 per night. If this doesn’t sound too expensive for you, it is possible to upgrade to the villa for a staggering US$12,000 per night.

the foyer in the Sheraton

A pastry from the shop will cost about Birr40 and you can then take it into the coffee-shop to hang out. It is possible to use the swimming pool for Birr200.

On my last day in Addis Gloves treats me to a sumptuous buffet at the Summerfield restaurant – a worthwhile Birr 444.

The KG Corner next to Taitu Hotel probably has the best burgers in town.

Ristorante Castelli’s on Mahatma Gandi Street is an Addis institution. Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie, Bill Clinton and Bob Geldof have all dined here in what has been termed as the best Italian restaurant outside Italy. It is indeed quality, most especially the homemade pasta in truffle sauce, although the old fat Italian owner is a grumpy rude bastard.

The Good Times Cafe has reasonable food and regularly shows Premiership football.

The Yeshi Buna Cafe just up the road from Taitu is open 24/7. A little expensive, it does serve some cracking dishes and the strawberry machiatos at Birr10 are quality.

The Lime Tree cafe and restaurant is next to the Addis Ababa University. It does decent Ethiopian food with a few international dishes. The fruit juices are good and the desserts are highly recommended. The menu looks cheap, but they charge additional taxes. You can’t miss it as half of the place is a London double-decker bus.

Getting Around:

Local shared taxis (blue and white Hiace minibuses) ply the main thoroughfares of Addis with prices ranging from Birr1 – 3. The small Lada taxis need patience if you are to negotiate a fair price.