Bethlehem

part of the New City of Bethlehem

I invite members of my Israeli family to join me in Bethlehem, including Dan the Man who is a true adventurer, however the response is the same – it is far too dangerous for them as Israelis to visit. Uncle D. says it’s just not fair; Palestinians come to visit his home town of Ra’anana without fear of threat or violence, but this is not a reciprocal arrangement.

Buses run regularly from Jerusalem #21, #24# and #124 outside Damascus Gate; #21 avoids entry via the Security Wall, although for me this is part of the “experience”. The fare is between NIS5 – NIS7 depending on which bus you catch and takes about 40 minutes.

The town is interesting, most especially the Old City and the souq, although it is clearly not as affluent as towns across the Security Wall. The people are open and friendly, and all are happy to help you navigate around the myriad alleys around the old town.

around the Old Town

At its centre is Manger Square, filled with cafes, restaurants and a dozen or so souvenir shops. There is also the Peace centre with exhibition space, a bookshop, tourist information and toilets.

from an exhibition at the Peace Centre on World Nativities - this one from Hong Kong

It’s a very pleasant place to hang out and watch the world go by.

Pashmina shawls in different colours


Christmas shopping 365 days a year

Unsurprisingly the town is popular with Christian pilgrims, many of which are highly emotional from the experience.

Just off Manger Square is the venerable Church of the Nativity was originally commissioned by the Emperor Constantine in 326AD, although after several sackings, lootings and invasions, only the original mosaics are left. The church also encompasses the underground Grotto of the Nativity which marks the spot of Jesus’ birthplace and Chapel of the Manger with its year round nativity scene.

heading from Manger Square to the Church of the Nativity

original mosaic flooring

silent prayer and tears

expect a huge queue outside the Grotto of the Nativity

it all gets a bit emotional in the Nativity Grotto

The pinkish building next door is St Catherine’s church, a Roman Catholic place of worship from where Midnight Mass is broadcast world-wide every Christmas Eve.

St Catherine's interior



two beautiful stained glass windows in St Catherine's

Up the aptly named Milk Grotto Street is the Milk Grotto Chapel which hosts a shrine commemorating the lactation of the Virgin Mary. Apparently it is particularly popular with “barren” women from all religions.

pilgrims congregate outside the Milk Grotto Chapel

Lactating Mary

relief inside the Milk Grotto

Up Milk Grotto Street

There are many hole in the wall eateries scattered around the town and most especially in the Old City. I base myself at the Bethlehem Star hotel which charge me US$50 including breakfast in the rooftop restaurant which has excellent vistas.

It's a great place to visit and is one of the highlights of my Israeli trip.