Arrived into the Parvati Valley at 5.15pm and staying in a poor person´s interpretation of a Swiss Chalet called the Alpine Guest House. I´ve taken an upstairs room with balcony overlooking the Parvati river gushing 30 metres away and situated in a pine-forest. I demanded a heater and negotiations on price are ongoing for an extended stay. It is in a village called Kasol described in the Lonely Planet as being “more Manali than Manali”. Clearly Sheva and Pavati had tastes before their time!
True, there is a falafel stall opposite and plenty of Hebrew decorating the walls along the single road, but like the rest of the village, pretty much all seems to be closed for Winter.
With courses beginning in Tushita Meditation Centre in the 2nd week of February, the gringos are already back in McLeod Ganj. Here, most travellers won´t be here before April.
I´m heading up to the hot springs tomorrow in Manikaran - translated as “the Jewel in the Ear.” As oft happens, a huge serpent came and stole Parvati´s earrings whilst she was bathing. As he snorted them out it released these therapeutic steamy waters. So hot, the locals reputedly boil their rice in it; it has to be mixed with cold water for bathing. It is a very popular pilgrimage site with Hindus and Sikhs. I need those therapeutic waters and immerse myself in heat so unfortunately the camera stays behind.
Getting from McLeod Ganj to Kasol
Take the 6.10am bus from Main bus stand. 200Rps will buy your ticket to Kullu - about 8 hours to travel 240kms. At this time of year there is only the Bedi (private) bus. I spent the last 2 hours next to two cute, but smelly white goats.
Got off the bus at Kullu playground and Municipal Taxi Workers stand and took a cab for an expensive Rp750 – about an hour and a half to cover 40kms.. With less luggage you can jump off the bus at Bhuntar and take your chances with a bus going your way.
Good to know it´s reachable in 12 hours door-to-door.
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