Out and About in the Parvati Valley

I have five Shiva posters in my room, but only one of Parvati. And wherever Shiva is, so there is a propensity for marijuana.

Parvati is famed for its charas. Every year connoisseurs from around the world, although interestingly enough a disproportionate amount of Italians, descend to the valley in Autumn as the harvests are completed. One of the most revered parts of the valley is Malana, listed as one of the founders of democracy with a long established parliament.

Over the last few years more than a dozen travellers have “disappeared” whilst “trekking” in the region, with some these confirmed as murders. Travellers have been known to try and buy a kilo for a couple of thousand dollars cash up front – five years of salary for a day´s work. Both Lonely Planet and the Rough Guide have highlighted the dangers of travelling in this area.

Through pressure, most notably Israeli mothers have forced the police to take action which has included climbing some steep slopes and burning a few crops. However, the police will not kill this golden goose, a lot of baksheesh can be made from travellers leaving town carrying more than they should.

This afternoon I was stopped on my way up to Manikaran by three police officers. They immediately like the look of the camera and ask how much is it worth? I cut the price by half, before they begin to ransack my bag twice and then my pockets. Clearly disappointed at finding nothing incriminating they want to see my passport. Now I have already mentioned that whilst I have a valid Indian visa, it was not validated at the border. It sits in the draw next to the bed in McLeod Ganj. I do however have a photocopy of the passport. This is illegal and they ask me several times if I know I can go to prison for this offense. I won´t budge and stare forlornly on the road. They tell me I must leave back to Dharamsala as soon as possible. At the very least I guess I will have to change hotel.

It is the low season and despite walking both North and South of Kaysol (Kaysal), I have seen only two other Western tourists. No wonder there are hardly any restaurants open! A few signs outside offer “ordinary” food . I found one place open in Jari to the south offering “nothing special - ordinary homemade food”. It was a quality curry and four different people on separate occasions came to ask if I really was enjoying it.

Work In Progress has been updated here.