Out of the Parvati Valley

Picturesque and rich in cultural life, Parvati is a great place to explore. Even in Winter, there is plenty to see and do although most of the cafes and restaurants are closed. Each village has something to offer and i´m sure there is more than 100 to visit, if you have the time and energy. It is interesting to note the melting pot, with Hindus, Sikhs and Buddhists hanging out together.

Like all mountain people, they are hardy, strong and somewhat shy of camera-carrying tourists. A shame as some of the colours are extravagant and lots of character in their faces. You have to greet them first, but you will get a response. Some are very friendly, although their English is very limited (and my Hindi non-existent). However whilst walking through Chhalal, I do get invited into the home of Rakesh, a local herder who has spent his entire life in the valley.

Rakesh opens up a large tin which is filled with what looks like goat shit, but the smell becomes stifling with the rich aroma of charis – pure Malana. We share a j together over a black tea and i´m rapidly baked. His one room space is very basic, but he has two others scattered in the valleys. He owns two donkeys and two horses and there is always plenty of work, although it means a somewhat nomadic existence. He is forty, but he has brought up a daughter and son by himself after being widowed 10 years ago. With schooling only available to Year 8 the daughter is a roller and his son will join the transport of marijuana. “Things cannot change in the valley”. He offers me some pellets, but after my experience with the local police, not a chance.

I manage to get up to 2200 metres to see the construction work of the Pulga dam, a private project to utilize the mighty power of the Parvati river, and I wonder what changes this will bring about.

Today I get an opportunity to spend time with Charman, a 21 year old farmer. He informs me today is the start of Shivaratri and there will be wild parties for the next week throughout the valley. He himself is on the way back to his village for a bhang Lassi, would I like to come? These are a very traditional drink during this awesome festival. I take up his offer of a village tour, but decline on the lassi - my friend Callum had one of these during the Pushkar camel fair and was psychotic for the next three days!

Sitting in his bedroom Chaman puts on a Parvati cultural show on his DVD player - his portable player is a present from some regular Scottish travellers. I ask him about the dam project, but he is sceptical the venture will be able to be completed. "it´s impossible for them to make. They don´t know what they are doing".

As well as vegetables Chaman´s family have a field of cannabis – apparently there is not a family without one! Everybody is involved in at least some part of the narcotics industry. The main harvest is in September with some farmers taking a second in March. After taking a great picture of his grandmother, I bid him farewell, and he offers to take me to the fields (a further 2 hours walk) if and when I return.

Foreigners have been a rare sight. I think there were only 4 or 5 sightings, one of which is obviously a long-term Italian resident. He spends his time continuously preparing chillums in the corner of the Evergreen restaurant in Kasol, giggling incessantly and talking to himself.

My Work in Progress is now completed and my Parvati photographs can be viewed here.

Although all Losar celebrations have been cancelled, I am keen to be at home by the 25th. There is a bus to Jammu via Dharamsala leaving Bhunter (330 Rps) at 7.30pm possibly arriving at in McLeod Ganj at about 2am. Yum!

Ed. Note: My taxi to Bhunter is stopped in a road block by more police, who tear open my rucksack and am asked to empty out my pockets. With nothing to be found, it´s over in 20 minutes, but never a pleasant experience. The bus leaves 25 minutes late and as it is on the way to Jammu it doesn´t head into McLeod Ganj or even Dharamsala. It actually stops at Kangra airport, and from there I was transferred by taxi. As there are two of us we have to pay RP250 each to take us back up to McLeod Ganj.