Siwa – Desert Oasis

view from Shali Fort across the oasis

I guess i’m kinda “templed out” – being a bit of a philistine there is only so much culture i can take. It’s time for some time out.

Siwa was on Bubba’s “Things to See” in Africa – a Bedouin oasis town surrounded by the Great Sea desert, just 60kms from the Libyan border. I need at least one oasis experience in Egypt and it’s famed for its mud-based architecture, olives and dates. Sounds pretty good to me.

I had been warned of the prevalence of mosquitoes and buy some sprays in Alex. Although they are non-malarial, they are a nuisance in the early morning and evening.

I get the 8.30am bus from Alexandria – the first available bus with three others behind. With stops every two hours and a one hour lunch-break in Marsa Matrouh, it’s not too unpleasant. Tickets cost E£37 and sold at the Delta West office close to the tourist information office in Alex.

Between Alex and Marsa the bus goes through a number of beachside compounds clearly inhabited by richer and upper/middle class Egyptians. Give it a few kilometres passed Marsa however and the landscape becomes pure desert country with no visible landmarks from horizon to horizon.

I have the good fortune to meet up with Penny, an attractive and interesting blond in her late forties from St Albans, close to my home-town. She has been based in Siwa for six years where she buys and reconditions local mud houses, rents out a villa, sells old Egyptian silver, runs a bookshop and an olive export business. She gives me a lowdown on Siwa, its environs and some interesting observations on some of the eccentric expatriate community that reside here. She also has a land cruiser and she is happy to show off some of the town’s attractions, including the hot springs.

This charming desert oasis less than 60kms from the Libyan border in the north west of Egypt has a population of some 30,000 people but retains a village feel. Donkey carts make up the majority of transportation along dusty palm-lined thoroughfares. This is very much Bedouin country. Berber, rather than Arabic, is very much the language of choice amongst the locals.

The pace of life slows to a virtual stand-still and i’m not the only travellist who extends their stay amongst the palm-trees.

dovecots in Siwa

The locals are sociable and welcoming – or at least the men are. The women are not only often burqured up, but also wear a grey and blue embroided cloak on top and a complete blue veil over the standard black one. They look kinda spooky, and can often be seen driven round by their young sons on a donkey cart.


The Main Square is dominated by the ancient mud fortress of Shali and the neighbouring old town, and a walk up to the top offers great views over the oasis. Trying to find a coffee or breakfast before 10.30am is not an easy feat. With still few tourists around a number of cafes and restaurants remain closed. Most of the locals run date and olive businesses.

the beautiful Shali fort

in silhouette

old house in Shali

There is plenty to see and do in and around the town.

The House of Siwa Museum, just below the fort, highlights local traditions and handicrafts, although its opening times currently seem somewhat sporadic. Entrance is allegedly E£10/E£5 for adults/students.

The Tombs of Jabal El Mawta – the Mountain of the Dead - lies north of the town centre and costs E£15/25 for students/adults. There are well over one hundred looted tombs built into the hillside, and there are currently two tombs that are “officially” open to the public.



a palm tree casts a shadow

3kms north east of here takse you to the Oracle temple by Aghormy village where Alexander the Great was persuaded to attempt to conquer the world in 332/331BC. It was built during the reign of King Amasis (570BC - 525BC) and dedicated to the Cult of Amun’s “Lord of Counsels”. It costs E£15/25 for students/adults. There are good views over the lakes.







A short hike southward of the Oracle temple lies the Temple of Umm Obeya (Amon). Built during the reign of King Nectanego between 360 – 343BC much is now in ruins.




On the same road, further to the south lies the Spring of Cleopatra, one of several cold springs to be found in the oasis. There a couple of chill out bars and restaurants here, although both are closed during my visit.

Cleopatra's spring

another bathing pool - close to the Mountain of the Dead

Indeed there are also a couple of hot springs to be found around the oasis, including the very serene Almaza. Entry to the place is E£5 and the adjoining cafe has great snacks. It lies to the south east of town, just pass Gerbur Dakrur.

from a hot-tub in the desert

Gerbur Dakrur is seen as very much a holy mountain and there is allegedly an interesting annual four day festival held here in April.

Slightly further afield directly to the east will take you to the salt lake Birket Azmoun, with a large concourse to walk or ride over.

On Fridays i am told there is an interesting and photogenic local market opposite the gas station.

Bicycles can be hired for E£15 – E£20 per day and donkey carts remain a popular taxi choice, although the above sites are all easy enough by foot. Camels and Arabian horses can also be rented by the hour or day.

Two more lakes lie to the west – Birket Siwa and further still, Birket Maraqi. The salt content is very high and entering the water with any abrasions is distinctly dodgy.

Further afield lies Bahaj el Din, an old Bedouin village which can be reached by a daily bus which departs in front of the mosque at 7am some 28kms away. It returns to Siwa around 4pm.

The surrounding desert was once under the sea, and shells and fossils abound. It’s super cold at the moment and i have no desire my nads off on an overnight trip, but it makes for a pleasant walk during the day. Trips across to the Black desert (southwards) are popular but you’ll have to hire a 4 x 4 and sort out desert permits. All of the many travel arrangements dotted around town can arrange this. E£1000 per vehicle seems to be fairly standard at the time of writing. Check out both your driver and your vehicle.

I base myself in the beautiful Palm Trees Hotel just off the main square. Rooms are E£35/45 single/double and bungalows cost E£50. Bungalow 28 is free – the best of the bunch, so again i splurge on a bit of extra comfort. Unfortunately the long pillows are hard and uncomfortable and a nearby mosque hauntingly kicks off at 5.20am well before sunrise. I am told that this calls farmers to water their plants. Worse still, the local Mu’azen sounds like he is being strangled whilst smoking a filterless French cigarette.

Penny owns and rents out Siwa Villa that sleeps 10 people and is tucked in next to the picturesque Shali.

Unfortunately with such low tourism at the moment several of the restaurants and coffee shops are closed, including the two by Cleopatra’s spring, Cafe Virgo with it’s Wi-Fi, and Mustafa’s in the town centre. Despite the recent passing of Abdu himself, his restaurant is still a classic with excellent pizzas.

I favour the East / West cafe and restaurant opposite the petrol station for breakfast with the largest Turkish coffee in town.

For quality food, check out the Kenooz restaurant at the Kenooz Shali Lodge hotel. The rooftop is delightful and the vegetarian food and the lamb kebabs are excellent. It’s reasonably priced as well. The boutique Heritage hotel oofers good chicken dishes and also boasts Wi-Fi too.

New Star Siwa also does a fine breakfast and it is opposite the Virgo cafe which boasts Wi-Fi, although currently closed at the time of writing.

Several places around the main square have bbq chicken for E£16 for a half chicken.

There is a useful Tourist Information centre with free maps and helpful staff opposite the bus station as well as the Cairo bank which has an ATM.

Penny informs me that there has been an increase in sex tourism with cougar women picking up a fresh Bedouin. I don’t witness this myself, but i have no reason to doubt her.