A Leap Into The Dark: Alexandria

the main promenade

I head up to Alexandria from Cairo by train from Ramses Station. A second class ticket costs me E£22 and takes 3 hours purchased on board the train, although faster journeys can make the trip in 2 hours.

With a population of some 4.5 million people Alexandria covers some 20kms of the Mediterranean coastline. With its quality coffee shops and classy restaurants there is very much a European flavour to this picturesque city.

Indeed, although the women are still scarved up, there is clearly a greater tactileness between young men and women than i have seen in Egypt; clearly more liberal attitudes exist in this part of the country.

Originally founded in 332BC by that intrepid Grecian dromomaniac Alexander the Great, unfortunately most of the old parts have been reclaimed by the sea. A great shame really for it was once both a major trading centre and centre of learning. Its ancient library once boasted 500,000 volumes and home of the Pharos lighthouse – one of the Ancient Seven Wonders of the World. Allegedly i hear some of the remaining blocks have been incorporated into the old fort and citadel on the western side of the city.

the ultra modern new library

The Fort and Citadel at the western end of the promenade (E£25/15 for adult/student) is very picturesque. Built by Sultan Qaitbay in 882AD it is also home to the oldest mosque in Alexandria. It is most photogenic in the late afternoon.

Close to the entranceway of the Citadel is an aquarium at the Oceanographic Centre.

Kom Al Dikka is the only Roman amphitheatre in Egypt (admission E£30/E£15 for adult/student), but i am somewhat disappointed – it’s pretty small.

There is also a Roman Villa on site referred to as the Villa of Birds (adult E£15/student E£8) so-called for it’s internal mosaic.

Whilst there are a few other sites around the city, including the Graeco – Roman and National Museums and the Catacombs Of Kom Ash, i am more than content to stroll around town exploring the wealth of coffee shops and patisseries.

My personal favourites include the Brazilian and Sofianopoulo Coffee Stores and Delicies, all to be found on Sharia Saad Zaghloul. And for the best espresso? The Roastery gets my vote on this one – and their red cheddar cheese omelette is pretty good too.

as much a museum as a coffee shop - the Sofianopoulo Coffee Store

the mango tart is awesome at Delices'

For the adventurous divers, Alexandra Dive on the waterfront offers underwater archaeology, although the visibility is usually very poor. You can check out their website by clicking here.

The Tikka Grill on the promenade is somewhat of an upmarket restauran with matching prices but a quality restaurant for carnivores. It can be found on the Corniche.

La Vallee offers passable coffee and Wi-Fi on Midan Ramla.

Getting around is easy enough on foot, but there is also a tram that runs just behind the promenade.

I am comfortably installed at the Crillon Hotel on the waterfront and opt for a large airy room with a sea view for E£98.50 including a filling breakfast. One of the shared bathrooms even has a bath-tub with a plug – my first real bath in Africa!