Aqaba

Although the population is just over 100,000 people, Aqaba is aiming to become Jordan’s second city, despite retaining a small town feel to the place. It is also very clean, predominantly due to an army of refuse collectors rather than litter-conscious locals.

Perched on the edge of the Gulf of Aqaba and surrounded by mountains, the front looks over across the sea to Eilat. With a plethora of hotels it’s very much a resort town, with plenty of package tourists, often elderly and French. There are also a sizeable Jordanian holiday-makers; predominantly rich with middle-aged and somewhat ugly wives heaverly doused in foundation and make-up.

With over 100 species of hard and soft corals and almost 1000 species of fish, this is the place for scuba diving. It’s also reasonably priced, and i am sorely tempted – i haven’t been diving on my entire journey. However, prices in Jordan are some of the most expensive on my entire trip and i have to cut costs somewhere.

Even the several glass battom boats perched along the waterfront are somewhat pricey.

outside the Yacht Club

This also means i have to resist the AqabaTurkish baths (JD12) for sauna, steam room, full massage and scrubbing. It is centrally located on King Hussein Street.

The ruins of the old port are pretty non-descript, but the castle is more interesting. Originally built by the Crusaders, it was expanded by the Mamluks in the 16th Century and the Ottomans occupied it up until World War One where the feisty British shelled it. There is also small museum.

the old castle

There are several cheap eateries close to the castle and a Safeway supermarket to the east of the centre of town for self-catering aptions.

I base myself at Moon Beach Hotel – en-suite singles from JD12/17, The trimmings are all in crimson, but it’s clean, has a fridge and the more expensive price offers a sea view. It’s opposite the castle.

Clearly aimed at the foreign tourists, there are numerous bars in town, including Friends, The Rover’s Return (English), and Oxygen, an Irish Pub too. Attractive local young women in make-up hang outside touting these places. Weird in a Muslim country for sure.

Only Aqaba and Amman offer visa extensions. The police station for visa extensions is next to the main bus-stand.

The only hassles are from the cruising taxi drivers who tout their services everywhere i walk and a few waiters pimping their restaurants on the front. If you don’t want to walk or take a taxi, a few camels are available.