Shelter and Sustenance in Shimla

Taken from Lonely Planet´s “Our Pick”, I´ve been staying at the clean and quiet Spars Lodge close to the State Museum. At Rp615 it is more expensive than I normally like to pay, but having checked out some of the surrounding hotels and guest houses, it really is good value, even if it is a bit of a walk into the centre.

The best meal I have eaten in Shimla has been the Lodge´s Grilled Trout with veg and a choice of potatoes in a lemon butter sauce. Rp250/300/350 for small/medium/large fish.

Whilst the food has been fair/good, I did not find anything excellent.

I did try and check out the exclusive Oberoi Cecil´s dinner banquet. After all, this town has a reputation for Raj extravagance. However I´m told they are very busy this week and “cannot accommodate” me. Maybe it´s because I´m looking a bit like an an unshaven ageing hippy. Lonely Planet quotes the set dinner at Rp780. The hotel does looks packed with elderly Yorkshire couples and American tour parties.

Tara Bhojnalya offers both veg and non-veg Indian and Chinese snacks and mains. The chicken tikka was succulent although overly garnished with coriander for my tastes. It lies to the west of the Mall opposite the junction with Cart Road.

The Dim Sum Chinese restaurant on the western side of the Mall offers an interesting menu of Chinese veg and non-veg dishes including chicken in orange and plum sauce and garlic butter chilly prawns (Rp230). Prices for mains cost Rp125 up. I had the golden fried lamb chops which was a little overcooked and heavy on the ginger and Five Spice.

I couldn´t resist the Domino´s take away. Good 10” pizzas will cost fromRp220 for veg and Rp280 for non-veg.

I have been enjoying breakfasts at Indian Coffee House also on the Mall. Looking a little worn, the waiters are still dressed up to the nines. A little touch of the Raj. A cheese omelette, two buttered toasts and a black coffee can be had for Rp60.

The Coffee Day Café has branches in many major cities and larger towns throughout India. An assortment of hot and cold coffees and a variety of sandwiches and snacks are also available. An espresso will set you back Rp29. There is also a Barista which is currently being refurbished.

The Fiesta Food Court is on the Eastern side of the Mall next to Hotel Willow Banks. Another nice terrace, particularly pleasant at sunset. The do veg and non-veg snacks. I can recommend the grilled chicken and cheese sandwich with fries and coleslaw. Throw in a Limca and it will cost you Rp135.

Himani´s boasts an excellent roof-top bar and restaurant with a prime people-watching location. A must for beer-drinkers, but if you are tea-teetotaller like myself, they do a mighty fine sweet lassi. Smoking is positively encouraged!

The Honey Hut offers a variety of honey-based drinks and snacks. The honey lassi was okay, and their honey softy ice-creams are a Rp10 bargain. A variety of liquid golden amber are sold in jars.