Karima

the slowly rusting steamers on the banks of the Nile

I confess – for my Sudan travels i have opted for the Bradt guide. More in-depth and informative than Lonely Planet, and hell – them meanies from LP won’t cough up any cash for my almost 200 entries via my blog-posts. Kudos is good, but i need cash!

I just miss the first bus to Atbara at 7am and am forced to wait an hour and 20 minutes for the next bus north. The journey takes some 2 hours 20 minutes and cost SP10. Buses now go direct to the town with no need to change at Ed Damer.

There is a skirmish for my custom to Karima and i brace myself for a long haul with Bradt saying the journey is rough and takes anywhere between 10 – 14 hours. However, times have changed and the road is now sealed. For SP30, we cover the journey in just under 3 and a half hours. Police checkpoints mean that the bus is stopped three times xo my passport can be checked; needless to say i am dead embarrassed for holding up the driver and my fellow passengers but they simply shrug it off.

Karima lies between two deserts and its isolation from civilization is immense with its dusty streets and low-rise buildings. Lying to the south west is the dramatic Jebel Barkal (which translates as “Holy Mountain” in Arabic), Sudan’s equivalent of Australia’s Ayers Rock with ruined temples and pyramids. There are also the royal cemeteries of Nuri and El Kurru fairly close by.

the Holy Mountain - Jebel Barkal

The town itself is pretty dumpy and a strong smell of urine and human faeces emanates from pretty much every corner. A couple of old Nile steamers quietly rust on the banks of the Nile.

Karima - looks quite pretty but stinks

My lokanda of choice (Al Nassr) is full so i have to make do with the distinctly shoddy El Shamalia opposite the post office. Bed/rooms go for SP5/Sp25. The Nubian Rest-house is a boutique hotel and charges US$90+ about 2kms from the town centre. There is also Internet access available but it is really slow.

the beautiful but expensive boutique hotel

For limited food choices follow the road east from the post office.

Aliens like myself must register at the security post in town. The office is an unmarked green building opposite the football ground.

Having made considerable time i was thinking of staying an extra day, but still unable to use toilet facilities for the 2nd night in a row, i opt to head onwards to Dongola for my quest for a comfortable dump.