Abri

I thought i was a victim of Sabbath Travel when i headed out from Karima, but heading out from Dongola to Abri is even more tricky. One of the bus station guys tells me a bus is heading north to Abri, puts my backpack on the roof and tells me to get breakfast. I come back later, hang out, grab a coffee, then another and then lunch. It gets to 1pm and i have almost given up, before the driver comes tells me we go. After a five hour wait, the journey north up to Abri takes three hours 45 minutes and costing SP40.

There is only one hotel in this small village – El Fagr – appropriately pronounced El Fucker. I share a room with a wild and wooly Czech Republican Milan and costs SP10. The rooms are grundgy; Milan says it is worse than the military prison in his native country and he speaks from personal experience. The toilet is spotless but there is no shower. The owner is friendly enough, but speaks no English. Fortunately the nearby gas station on the main road has such a facility and the kindly manager offers us free access.


beautiful Nubian architecture

The security office is a little further up the same road, just past the police station, although it takes me three visits to find anyone around to register me in.

Another option is a home-stay with Mugzoub who speaks excellent English and is also happy for travellers to set up their tents in his garden.

The village is a typically Nubian, and the inhabitants particularly welcoming and friendly. Not so the Security Officer who drives past me and tells me not to take any photos as i wander around some of the local roads.


Despite its small size, the shops are well stocked although eating options are very limited, predominantly limited to ful (the ubiquitous Sudanese dish of mashed and stewed fava bean) and taamiya (falafel).

There is a small but lively market on Monday mornings.

A few kilometres out of town is Sai Island where numerous French archaeologists are excavating some old ruins.

The small black flies (non-biting fortunately) are out in abundance in the morning and evening.

True Fact: Rain last fell in Abri in 1988.
seriousy dry conditions