Aksum is at the northern tip of Ethiopia close to the Eritrea border.
Once amongst the superpowers about 400BC being the crossroads between Egypt, Sudan’s gold fields and the Red Sea, exporting frankincense, grains, skins, apes and ivory. In the 4th century, Aksum embraced Christianity, shaping Ethiopia’s religious affiliations to this day. However with the growth of Islam in Arabia, by the 7th century Aksum became totally isolated and was never the same again.
Many believe the Ark of the Covenant resides at the St Mary of Zion churches, Ethiopia’s most important religious site. With a Birr150 entrance fee (Birr120 for women) i demure however. Anyway, rumour has it that anyone trying to sneak a glimpse behind the heavily guarded chapel spontaneously combusts.
There are 14 “major” historical sites in and around the town.
The Stelae Park - Opposite the Church of the Ark of the Covenant, lies the stelae park. There are 7 stelae, the largest measures some 33 metres, but has fallen and broken into several segments. The second largest was looted by Mussolini in 1937, and just been returned to its former home. Quarried several kilometres outside the town, no-one knows how they were moved or erected.
Mai Shum – (also known as Sheba’s bath) - At the foot of Mai Qoho this reservoir is hewn out of solid rock. It is the focus for the epiphany celebrations on 18th/19th January.
Dingar (also known as Sheba’s palace), ruins of an old palace including some 50 rooms and covers some 3,000 square metres.
Gudit Stelae field – opposite the Dingar, some rough hewn granite stellae, may of which are damaged and/or flattened.
Tomb of Bazen – King of Aksum, Bazen was on the throne at the time of Jesus
Admission for all the historical sites, but not St Mary’s church, is Birr25/50 student/non-concession foreigners. Guides are available for Birr250. I opt for an informative Birr20 map. Bikes can be rented around town, but the road is too poor in parts to see all the sites on one of these. A rickshaw would be a good option, but i can’t persuade a driver to give me a reasonable price – the minimum i was quoted was Birr150. Birr50 – 70 would seem far more reasonable and fair.
To be honest, i am somewhat underwhelmed by most of these sites. Even the famous stellae fields seem somewhat disappointing, but maybe i have been just too spoilt with visits to Easter Island’s Moas.
I base myself at the clean and centrally located Corezen Pension. I bargain a Birr120 room.
Tourist traffic is heavy, many of the sites seem lame and i am ready to move on.
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