Aksum to Lalibela

I have been running around a lot, for i am determined to make it to Lalibela for the Ethiopian Christmas. And what better place to celebrate it with 3 – 4,000 pilgrims expected into town.

I was under the impression that this journey could be done in a day, but asking around and i am told anywhere between 2 – 3 days. No wonder internal flights seem to be the norm amongst travellists. I hop on the first bus heading out to Makele at 6am. The road is a mix of sealed and unsealed surfaces and is quite picturesque, it climbs and descends to/from 2,400 to 3200 metres. It’s a long journey nonetheless, taking some 11hours.

There is an Darshen Bank with an International Visa ATM machine and having finally received my new HSBC number and can access funds once again, and not behave like a poverty stricken ex-pat in Ethiopia. I find a land-cruiser heading to Addis (2 day journey) and negotiate a ride down to Wodia. However after 5 hours, our driver called Fanta calls it a night in some small village. He knows a hotel and a restaurant and we pay Birr50 for a brand new and quality en-suite. Amazing how cheap Ethiopia when off in the wilderness. I try the Salem Hotel’s own speciality of keyoate (lamb, pepper and onion in hot red sauce) with injere (the staple sour pancake) with yogurt and egg. Awesome.

We head on early next morning arriving into Wodia at 8.30am. There are minibuses waiting (Birr80) and i am told the journey is 3 – 4 hours. I’m getting pretty excited as i must be close to setting some kind of record here. No such luck. The bus meanders slowly into the mountains again before blowing a tyre. It takes some 30 minutes to sort, but we don’t travel much further until we have to make a pilgrimage stop. A new church is under construction in a neighbouring village and they are holding a fund-raising fair. Much excitement descends when they see White Man. I reluctantly hand over what for them must seem a disappointing Birr7 – and for that price i also expected some pilgrim/priest photos too.

 

Just before arriving into the town at about 1pm, there is a final pilgrimage to one of the legendary monasteries. I am desperate to get a hotel and shower off, but the rest of the bus trek off into the distance so i join them. With an entry fee of Birr100 for foreigners i desist from making the journeys end, but i am blocked from taking photographs for not paying my entry fee.

It takes a further 40 minutes for the pilgrims to return to the bus and into the centre. It’s completely packed. I check out some 8 hotels with prices ranging from Birr400 for flea-pits – US$60 for things i wouldn’t pay US$20 for. Like Cape Town when festivities hit town, prices sky-rocket.

Aksum

 

ancient stelae field
Aksum is at the northern tip of Ethiopia close to the Eritrea border.

Once amongst the superpowers about 400BC being the crossroads between Egypt, Sudan’s gold fields and the Red Sea, exporting frankincense, grains, skins, apes and ivory. In the 4th century, Aksum embraced Christianity, shaping Ethiopia’s religious affiliations to this day. However with the growth of Islam in Arabia, by the 7th century Aksum became totally isolated and was never the same again.

Many believe the Ark of the Covenant resides at the St Mary of Zion churches, Ethiopia’s most important religious site. With a Birr150 entrance fee (Birr120 for women) i demure however. Anyway, rumour has it that anyone trying to sneak a glimpse behind the heavily guarded chapel spontaneously combusts.

 

the holiest of sites in Ethiopia - St Mary's Church of the Arc of the Covenant

There are 14 “major” historical sites in and around the town.

The Stelae Park - Opposite the Church of the Ark of the Covenant, lies the stelae park. There are 7 stelae, the largest measures some 33 metres, but has fallen and broken into several segments. The second largest was looted by Mussolini in 1937, and just been returned to its former home. Quarried several kilometres outside the town, no-one knows how they were moved or erected.

 

returned from Italy

 

detail

Mai Shum – (also known as Sheba’s bath) - At the foot of Mai Qoho this reservoir is hewn out of solid rock. It is the focus for the epiphany celebrations on 18th/19th January.

 

check out the figure on the steps for an idea of scale

Dingar (also known as Sheba’s palace), ruins of an old palace including some 50 rooms and covers some 3,000 square metres.

 

Gudit Stelae field – opposite the Dingar, some rough hewn granite stellae, may of which are damaged and/or flattened.

 

Tomb of Bazen – King of Aksum, Bazen was on the throne at the time of Jesus

 

Admission for all the historical sites, but not St Mary’s church, is Birr25/50 student/non-concession foreigners. Guides are available for Birr250. I opt for an informative Birr20 map. Bikes can be rented around town, but the road is too poor in parts to see all the sites on one of these. A rickshaw would be a good option, but i can’t persuade a driver to give me a reasonable price – the minimum i was quoted was Birr150. Birr50 – 70 would seem far more reasonable and fair.

To be honest, i am somewhat underwhelmed by most of these sites. Even the famous stellae fields seem somewhat disappointing, but maybe i have been just too spoilt with visits to Easter Island’s Moas.

I base myself at the clean and centrally located Corezen Pension. I bargain a Birr120 room.

Tourist traffic is heavy, many of the sites seem lame and i am ready to move on.

 

traditional Aksum handicrafts using dyed straw

Gonder to Aksum

Unable to book the night before, i scramble around the bus stand at 4.50am, am shown on to two separate buses before finally departing on the 3rd at 6.30 for Shire (Birr140). The views of the highlands are beautiful, but tight hair-pin bends and unseald roads slow the journey right down.

The bus takes some 10 hours to get to Shire, but nothing seems to be moving further. Fortunately there are plenty of tourists and 11 of us charter a mini bus for Birr500 to take us the two and a half hours needed to get to Aksum. There is an ATM inside the bank at Shire.