Windhoek

the Atlas Building in the city centre

Some 240,000 people live in the capital situated in the Central Highlands at an altitude of 1660m. This remains the main commercial hub of the country, and, with its heavily German colonial past, it is somewhat staid and orderly. The mixed population of the city reflects Namibia's cultural melting pot and tribes people from Kavango, Herero, Damara, Nama and Europeans all contribute to the vibrant community of the city. Lonely Planet claim it is generally safe during the day, but does not recommend walking around alone at night. Further advise at the guesthouse tell me that even during the day, carry nothing with you - no camera, no MP3s, no day-pack. I am disappointed but follow their advise.

This modern city is well-maintained and set out with German quality and organisation. Streets are clean with a plethora of rubbish bins along the main thoroughfares. Certainly one doesn’t get the feeling of “oh hell! I’m about to be mugged”. However i do note that very few people actually carry any bags apart from plastic grocery bags. There are a number of shopping malls (there is even a Woolworth’s snuck away in Hernhill Park) and grocery stores scattered throughout the city. ATMs are aplenty for restocking on local currency. It is very easy to navigate around the city centre on foot.

The city is adorned with Anti-Aids posters, but rather than recommending using condoms or abstinence, they advise just sticking with one partner.

For those lovers of tobacco, this is somewhat of a rare paradise and it appears you can light up anywhere, including shopping malls and restaurants.

Sights include the Alte Feste (Monday – Friday 9am – 6pm, Saturday and Sunday 10.30am – 12.30pm) are Windhoek’s oldest surviving buildings dating back to 1890, with white washed ramparts and housing the historical section of the State Museum. Exhibits include a detailed history of Namibia’s move to independence as well as some old muskets, musical instruments, domestic appliances and furniture. Unfortunately the aesthetics are somewhat spoilt by the nearby secondary school and a new construction site on the other side. Entry is free.

At the affiliated Owela Museum (opening times the same as Alte Feste) has exhibits of the cultural and natural history. Some rather old taxidermy work on Namibian animals and birds take up much of the natural history section, the highlight for me being the explanations behind the fast encroaching extinction of the cheetahs. The cultural history looks at details of the different Namibian tribes-people. There is also a current exhibition on European explorers to the region. Again, the entry is free of charge.

The National Art Gallery has a mix of older and contemporary art some of which is for sale. It opens 9am Tuesday to Saturday. The photographs are particularly good, including the chronicles of Red Cross in the country. There is also an exhibition of jazz performers who have visited Namibia, including Dizzy Gillespie, Louie Armstrong, Miles Davis and Stanley Brubeck situated in the concert hall. The gift shop has some great pieces at what looks like fair prices. No money is asked, but you are expected to sign the Guest Book on entry.

Also situated on Robert Mugabe Avenue is Tinten Palast Gardens, just in front of the Parliament building. These are small, but well maintained and offers a shady respite from the city.

Post St Mall is a bizarre and colourful shopping mall boasting curios, art and clothes mainly from Zimbabwe and a display of several Gibeon meteorites. The helpful and friendly Namibian Tourist Board operate from the 1st floor of the Channel Life Tower building. Close by is a Zoo Park which i haven’t checked out.

The Namibian Wildlife Resorts (NWR) office has moved and is now near the junction between Post St Mall and Independence Road.

As for dining experiences, i have little to report as i am predominantly self-catering. However King Pie (several branches scattered across the city) gets my vote with a decent selection of beef, chicken and vegetable pies on offer at reasonable prices. Little Italian pizzas are good and will deliver. I have resisted the temptations of Kentucky Fried Chicken and Wimpy. Raith’s on the corner of Post Street and Independence Avenue does a great double espresso.