Out of Heathrow

So off on my travels around Africa and it almost ends at Heathrow airport. It is at the SAA flight desk where i am informed that yes, whilst as a British passport holder i am entitled to visa on entries to Namibia and South Africa i am entitled to three month visas, this is only possible if i hold a flight ticket out of South Africa. No onward flight out of Africa, boarding is strictly prohibited. Not exactly geared to overland travel adventures now is it?

So i end up purchasing a refundable ticket out again, only possible on SAA's most expensive flights. Visa saves my ass again as i end up purchasing a flight for £1600 although i am assured that it can be cancelled and money returned to my visa account minus £25. I philosophically regard this as a loan up front.

It's a comfortable 11 hour flight to Joburg with a bulk-head seat and unusually i am able to grab a couple of hours sleep on the way. With a six hour stop-over before my onward flight to Windhoek i eventually clear the transfer desk with only 2 of the possible 8 posts staffed and find myself holed up in a Smoking Lounge to pass the time. Despite the promise of free WiFi it is either a rouse or not working at this current time.

Joburg looks cold, wet and gray and i seriously regret not wearing a pullover or jumper.

Before departing UK i contact the Cameleon City Lodge in Windhoek to book my first few of days accommodation and even airport transfer from the cooly named Chief Hosea Kutako International airport some 42kms east of the city centre. It comes highly recommended in Lonely Planet, reasonably priced with breakfast included, and has the luxury of a swimming pool, a cyber cafe and comfortable loungers. I end up in Lovebirds - the honeymoon suite in a tree-house for the first night. Despite a large group of noisy young American things, the ambiance is cool, and the bougainvillea and jasmine plants give it a jungle-like feel.

at Chameleons - the honeymoon suite is tops!

The drive in from the airport gives a great introduction to Namibia, with huge sandy hillocks, and baboons and gazelles adorning the countryside.

From here, i need to investigate my options for the next 5 weeks in Namibia, with desert visits and a safari around the Etosha crater high on the agenda. There are several tribal experiences available also which sound like interesting options.

According to Lonely Planet's 30th Anniversary edition of Africa, Namibia boasts one of the lowest population densitites in Africa. Barely 1.8 million people inhabit this huge land-mass and averages 2 people for each square kilometres which includes 11 ethnic groups.

Due to its barren and inhospitable coastline, Namibia was generally ignored by European nations. The Portugese arrived in the late 15th century, but their activities were confined to erecting stone crosses to assist navigation. It wasn't until the late 19th century that it was annexed by Germany (except Walvis Bay which was taken by the British in 1878). In 1904 both the Herero and Nama launched a rebellion which was brutally surpressed.

After World War One, the German colony came to an abrupt end and South Africa were given a mandate to rule the territory by the League of Nations and was ratified again by the United Nations after World War Two. Violent protests were common in the late 1950s onwards, but independence only materialised in March 1990.