First Day in Darjeeling

Set in the shadow of Mount Khangchendzonga, at 8598 metres, the third highest peak in the world, Darjeeling boast being the top draw location in West Bengal. At over 2100 metres, this old hill station sprawls across a west facing mountain ridge, surrounded by tea plantations.

Indeed, introduced from Assam by British planters as a response to the Chinese monopoly, it now boasts producing 25% of the Indian market. So what is a “coffee only” drinking man doing here? Well it also boasts another taste of Hill Station life, with a real flavour of Buddhism – there are some beautiful gompas(temples) scattered in the area. The mountain views are meant to be spectacular; although this is coming out of season very soon as the clouds roll over between May – September and again between December to mid March.

I missed out on Darjeeling on my trip in ´89, and have been meaning to make it over here for the quintessential Somerset Maughan moment.

I grab a shared jeep from Siliguru this morning and it´s tipping down with rain. It is tastefully decorated with Union Jack mud-guards, a freaky diorama of three crazy incarnations of Shiva on the dashboard and an Arsenal pennant dangling from the rear-view mirror. It makes the 90kms journey in just over two and a half hours – not bad considering it has to climb almost 2000 metres.

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway´s 2 foot guage track runs alongside the road. In operation since 1881 it is listed as a World Heritage site. Whilst it is now a diesel that makes the long 7 hour climb from New Jalpaiguri, there is still a steam train service between Darjeeling and Kurseong.

It´s drizzling on my arrival into town and is shrouded by low clouds and mist for the remainder of the day. With a population of almost 110,000, on first impressions, it is somewhat similar in size and appearance to Shimla; busy centre and market place, the “touch of the Raj” and the steep alleys and lanes leading of the main bazaar.

When arriving in a new place that I know i´m staying in for longer than 3 days, I like to get my bearings, so I spend today around the central area of town. With the gloom of the fog, landscapes are off the menu for my camera, so I stick to a few portrait shots around the main bazaar.

The locals look distinctly different from Indians, Tibetans or Nepalese people. Historically, this area was part of Sikkim, ruled by a variety of Buddhist kings until 1780. when attacking Gurkhas from Nepal annexed off the area. After several battles between the local invaders and British Imperialists under the guise of the East India Company, the Gurkas were forced back and the land was returned to the King of Sikkim in 1816. Probably as a thank you, the King then leased the land over to the East India Company and by 1835, the hill-station was established.

Indeed, around town, you will notice plenty of "Ghorkaland" stickers and posters, part of a campaign for their own autonomous state. Darjeeling is part of West Bengal, their needs are quite different from Calcutta´s for example. I guess they feel somewhat excluded in the past. The BJP have openly made it part of their election manifesto to gain support here.

My backpack is parked at the Hotel Aliment. Described by Lonely Planet as “a travellers´ favourite, with good food, library, roof-top patio, helpful owners and cosy wood-lined rooms”. My single is small and musty with just a faint aroma of urine. I also find a large, black and dead beatle on my pillow. At Rs150 it´s probably the cheapest room in Darjeeling, but I might have to consider an upgrade. Buckets of hot water cost Rs10.