Darjeeling Highlights

I never had a clear morning, but you can see the legendary potential of Tiger Hill for the classic sunrise in the mountains. The walk back through Ghum is gorgeous.

For steam buffs, the UNESCO World Heritage Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, is a must. Even though the “season” is at an end, two daily steam train joy rides are available to Ghum – departing 10.40am and 1.20pm from the centrally located railway station. They cost Rs240 for any passenger over 5. Alternatively you can get a day tour packet to Kurseong for Rs 800.


Many travellers I spoke to raved about the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre (open dawn to dusk Monday – Saturday. As an illegal resident of McLeod Ganj and a little pushed for time, I didn´t really feel the urgency to visit.

Lloyd´s Botanical Gardens provides a great respite from the town centre; a great place just to chill. Another great hang-out and place to people-watch is the centrally located Chowrasta. Plenty of both Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims make their way through here to the temple on Observation Hill. The walk around the hill offers plenty of potential viewpoints.

Those interested in the Mount Everest summit assaults should pass by the Mountain Institute. Some great memorabilia to be found. The Zoological Gardens adjoining it is well-maintained, although there are plenty of very noisy Indian tourists upsetting the animals, (despite all the posters requesting quiet).

Gompa fanatics can enjoy plenty of local Buddhist temples, although I was a tad disappointed that so many were quite recent additions.

For food and sustenance, there is quite a range. Definitely my favourite is Glenary – the cakes and pastries are great (I particularly the chocolate tart) with the advantage of computers and stunning views from the ground floor tea-shop. They offer pretty poor quality coffee in a pot. The restaurant at the top is even better. The delicious tandoori dishes arrive quickly and is very reasonably priced.

For some great set breakfasts, Soham´s Kitchen, just down from Andy´s Guest House can´t be topped. Although service can be very slow when crowded, it´s a great hangout point. The hash browns are the best in India, fried eggs cooked to perfection and their espressos are strong and bitter.

Darjeeling being a tea centre provides little respite for coffee junkies. Trying to get a decent cup has been a challenge. However, I have been saved by Coffee Day Café situated at the Rink Mall.

Joey´s Pub is a good place if you like something stronger or want to watch live English premiership action. A sign near the bar informs the patrons that “women will not be served.” It has a certain pub-like feel to it.