Monday, July 19, 2010

Into Swaziland

Taking the Baz Bus from Durban to Swaziland takes some 8 and half hours. Somewhat more expensive than their rivals at ZAR530, they at least offer door to door service and as I fell somewhat flush having now rearranged my bank accounts, i splurge.

Swaziland is a small African kingdom which gained full independence from the influences of the Boers and British in 1960 under King Sobhuza II.

It is currently ruled by King Mswati III, one of some 600 children conceived by his predecessor from King Sobuza’s 100 wives. Mswati dissolved parliament in 1992 and it is currently governed by the Liqoqo – a traditional tribal assembly. In keeping with Swazi tradition, on the death of a monarch 75 days of strict public mourning is observed whereby only the most essential commerce is allowed. Sexual intercourse was also banned, punishable by public flogging.

King Mswati III has called for the country to strive to move forward setting the deadline of 2020 to become a “First World” country. This might explain the considerable commercial and residential growth taking place in the Ezulwini Valley. Canadian Mike informs me he was at this same spot 2 years ago and it is almost unrecognizable.

Swaziland has probably the highest HIV infection rates in the World with almost 40% of adults aged between 15 -50 infected. Life expectancy here has been reduced from 58 to just 38.6 years old - sourced by Guiness Book of Records!

I am currently based in Legends Back-packers at The Gables in Ezulwini Valley - some 15kms south east from the capital Mbabane. It is set in a rural area but with amenities close by, so it might be a good base for my stay in Swaziland. It boasts its own lidloti – an ancestral spirit – this particular one is “the spirit of adventure”. Now that is cool.

My first priority will be to secure an onward visa to Mozambique from the High Commission.

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