Karak (Kerak)

Continuing my journey in the footsteps of the Crusaders, my next stop takes me to the castle town of Karak.

the castle entrance

It’s been fortified for some 29 centuries and it even gets it’s own mention in the Old Testament.

a left-over of Nabataean times

The Crusaders spent some 20 years building and in 1161 it became the residence of the Lord of Transjordan, by then the most important fief in the Crusader Kingdom.

Saladin’s armies attacked the castle three times, but all to no avail.



imposing outer walls

It wasn’t all mass-mudering battles however, and trading between the Christians and Muslims, each imposing taxes on each other.

In the early 1170s Karak came under the rule of Reynauld of Chatillon, the most reckless and daring of the Transjordan lords, famed for his incredible sadism. He mercilessly tortured prisoners, some of which were thrown off the walls into the valley some 450 metres below. He even went to the trouble of having a wooden box fastened to the heads so they wouldn’t lose consciousness before hitting the ground. What a charmer! He was eventually executed at the hands of Saladin himself.

In November 1188, after an eight month siege, the Crusaders eventually capitulated to the Moslems.

The castle is in excellent condition, especially in comparison to my visit to Al-Habis in Petra which is in complete ruins. It is famed for its underground tunnels and galleries, although the external walls, inner courtyards and Mamluk Keep are pretty interesting in themselves.



the old kitchen

There is also an informative and atmospheric archaeological museum at the foot of the stairs from the entrance-way.

the atmospheric museum

It’s Spring at the moment and the Upper Court is covered in beautiful Reticulated Irises in the afternoons.




Entrance is JD1 and is open from 8am – 4pm (Winter) and 8am – 7pm (Summer). Here are audio-guides available in English, Arabic, Spanish and French for JD5.

The town itself is pretty non-descript, but the people are particularly welcoming and friendly to the passing travellist. The surrounding valleys are very picturesque.

statue in the town centre

Prices for accommodation have clearly risen steeply since Lonely Planet – Middle East (2009 edition). I am based at the Tower’s Castle Hotel close to the castle where a singles cost JD12 (no ensuite and no view from window) – JD20 with sublime views down the valley. Breakfast is included from Kings Restaurant. The more swanky Karak Resthouse now charges JD35 + tax for the equivalent. Doubles are JD55 and triples JD65. They also offer Internet services for JD2 per hour.

The restaurant next door to Towers Castle Hotel is the real treat of the town. Kir Heres is run by a jolly fat proprietor and literally is an award-winner. Check out all his certificates on the wall. Indeed, King Abdullah II himself is a client. It’s reasonably priced too, and offers vegetarian and non-vegetarian starters (from JD2) and mains (JD6 - 8) and sells wine by the glass. It’s the best meal i have eaten since dining with Gloves in Addis. The lamb cutlets are divine.

There are a few cheaper options round the corner including King’s and Fida’s, but they are not in the same league. The breakfast at King’s - the only place open before 8am.

There are a couple of ATMs in town taking both Visa and Mastercard.

All the above mentioned places are in Castle Plaza.

The large bus from Karak for Amman departs from outside the centre of the town leaves when full. It costs JD1.30 and takes two hours.