Lake Bunyonyi

If Peter Jackson got turned down by the New Zealand government to film The Hobbit, he could have done a lot worse than to relocate to Lake Bunyoyi in southwest Uganda.




A boda-boda (motorcycle taxi) takes me from the Kabale town centre for USh5,000 to cover the 9kms to the lake. I want to stay at the highly recommended Byoona Amagara Island Retreat, so i drop off at Rutinda Market pier.

Unfortunately i meet Sam – a cheating local guide who tells me i have to charter a boat across to the tiny Itambira Island for USh4000. It is actually free if you leave from the Byoona Amagara parking lot right next door to the pier.

the island is small enough not to get lost - especially with the helpful signposts

The canoe takes some 50 minutes across this tranquil lake, with terraced hilltops shrouded in clouds.

I am greeted by the friendly duo – Junior and Clinton who warmly welcome me and take me around this special facility. There are several other accommodation options, but this is a local community project which always appeals to me.

The accommodation options are aimed more at the budget and independent travellist with camping spots for USh 8,000, quad-tent for USh30,000, big dorm beds at USh13,000, small dorm beds at USh 13,000, Basic GeoDomes for USh16,000 (per person), deluxe GeoDomes for USh 28,000 (per person), wood cabin for USh30,000 per person and Family Cottage at USh40,000 (per person).

I fall in love with the deluxe GeoDome and splash the cash – in high season they charge a person and a half for single occupancy.

i fell in love with my deluxe geodome - damn the expense

sunset from my veranda

I do bring a few additional supplies with me from Kabale, although the food is both good and reasonably priced.

They also run a variety of tours, sell handicrafts and offer Internet access – although in this remote location it is both slow and enjoys frequent cut-offs. They also have an extensive video collection which can be ordered for 8pm screening in the library. Admission is USh2,000.

The tiny island has an abundance of different species of flowering plants and is therefore a paradise for ornithologists.

so many species of stunning flowering plants

one of several variety of finches

For two blissful days i am not referred to as Mzungu and chill with other travellers. This is something i have rarely done over the last six and a half months. Although a great source of further travel information, i generally preferring the company of locals. This travellist prefers to go local.

A canoe can be arranged for USh3,000 to return you to the Mainland.