Kigali

view across Kigali

With a population of over 600,000, Kigali sprawls over ridges, hills and valleys. It is quite an attractive city with some superb views over the intensely cultivated and terraced countryside beyond.

Although badly trashed in the 1994 civil war considerable effort have been made to reinvent the city and it’s quite modern, urbane and forward-thinking.

Banking has considerably improved in the city. The Banque de Kigali on Ave. du Commerce will give cash advancements on Visa cards for a reduced charge of 3.7% (it used to be somewhat higher), and opposite here is the Ecobank which has finally installed the first international visa ATM in the country. There are five other branches scattered around the country.

the modern Bank of Kigali

If, like myself, you wish to check out permits for the mountain gorillas independently of a tour-group, the Office Rwandais du Tourisme et des Parcs Nationaux, this can booked at their main office on Blvd de la Revolution. Open from 7am -5pm on weekdays and 8am – 2pm at the weekends, the staff are friendly if somewhat inefficient. They can also provide information on all the National Parks including Nyungwe, one of Africa’s largest montane rainforests dating back to the ice-age. These days they also accept local currency, but they still seem to prefer US dollars. But be warned – notes must be in pristine condition or will not be accepted.

I have been based at the Auberge La Caverne where i have a small but comfortable room with en suite, TV, hot water and breakfast for RFr12,000. They also have an Internet cafe. Unfortunately budget options are minimal in the city.

the original Hotel Rwanda - the Hotel des Mille Collines

Kigali’s restaurant scene is excellent, clearly benefitting from the French/Belgium influences.

La Galette is a German bakery just down the road from the main mosque. The brochette is awesome and they have a range of accompanying sauces. Good value and excellent quality.

Buffets are part of the course in Kigali restaurants and i am happy to recommend Chez Robert on Ave. de la Republique is a bit pricey at RFr7,000 but the range and quality is excellent.

Somewhat cheaper is the Tourist Inn. There buffet is RFr2,000 and predominantly vegetarian.

It's not just a French flavour here though. I also splurge on a quality Indian curry at Royal Garden restaurant where a chicken tikka masala, a kashmiri naan and two cokes set me back Rfr 10,000. They also offer Chinese delicacies. This place can be found on Rue de Ntaruka, next to the excellent Shokola coffee-house. (See below)

the urbane city centre

Rwanda has export quality coffee and some really good coffee-shops. Whilst the rather swanky Bourbon Coffee at the Union Trade Centre on Ave de la Republique, is a vey comfy cafe, it is a bit of an expat haunt. The coffee is only okay, but the chocolate/hazelnut ice-cream is the best i have had in Africa. They also have wi-fi. More local and with better quality coffee is Simba - it can be found next to the Simba supermarket on the roundabout heading up to the banks. However the best coffeehouse in my humble opinion has to be Shokola on Rue de Ntaruka. They also have an Internet hotspot for Net junkies. They also have a quality restaurant too.

The electricity supply seems a bit hit and miss, and it disappears for almost 24 hours during my stay. A few child beggars come and slip their hand into mine as i walk the streets, but seem happy enough just to have a chat in English.

Although the city is hilly and steep in parts, motor taxis (motorbike taxis) are readily available at very reasonable prices. Count on roughly RFr200/km, but cheaper on longer journeys.

I ask at the hotel if it is safe to openly carry my camera. They look at me incredulously. Apparently it is safe as proverbial houses.

I haven’t enjoyed being in many of Africa’s cities, but although Kigali doesn’t have too many sights and attractions for the passing travellist, it is a delightful city to hang out in.