Beggars in Ethiopia

There is no doubt about it, Ethiopia is a poor country, and like my beloved India, there is a culture of begging. Whilst many are passive, sitting on the streets with an outstretched hand whilst other are far more active, going round bus stops and the streets asking for hand-outs. Most locals hand out small change and i opt to do the same to the elderly or disabled.

Far more annoying is the locals who directly approach faranjis. Usually younger ones, they come out with stories of being orphaned and failing to afford their schooling. Some are genuine, (Derbo my Addis fixer for one), but most are not. They plead for “sponsorship”, and indeed some are successful – every Ethiopian knows of a friend of a friend of a friend who has a “rags to riches” story. This explains the outrageous persistency.

What i really dislike is the children who clamour around the faranjis with the line “one Birr – one Birr” or worse still, simply “Give me money”. One can only imagine that this ploy is successful for them. To pass money out like this is totally irresponsible and should be avoided by the travellist at all costs.

Begging in High Definition and Stereo

One of Pa´s most special material possessions is a Bang and Olufsen television. It´s certainly not one of their better models, but it is still pretty cool and sexy-looking.

I have written several postings on beggars in India and are an everyday occurrence on the streets in every city, town and village. Of course beggars can be found in most towns and cities in UK too.

Watching television last night I witness a rather shocking television advert. It is for Action Aid. It is made up of scenes of poverty, from India and other “Third World” countries. The images are disturbing enough, but it is accompanied by text explain their pitiful circumstances, each more shocking than the next. It informs you that for 50 pence “you can make a difference”.

India itself is shocking enough, but in some ways this is even more in your face – it´s emotive, evocative and on Pa´s B&O TV, in high definition and stereo too.

Life On A Skateboard

Every city, town and village in India has beggars. And with its compassionate Tibetan population as well as a transient international population, Mcleod Ganj probably has more than most for its size.

Walk down The Ganj´s two roads, the Temple kora or head on the roads out to Dharamkot or Bhagsu and you´ll find them, or indeed, they will find you.

I have put a couple of postings on beggars before and specifically to the scamming by the South Indian women in the village.

I know almost all of the long term beggars and greet them with a Namaste, palms together. I very rarely give with no real rhyme or reason in deciding whether I do or don´t. I am more likely to give when I am on the kora, and I always give a “modeling fee” if i take a photo. Mainly it depends on how much small change I have on me at the time.

It can be somewhat disturbing, with many victims of elephantiasis, polio, and other forms of mutilation and disfigurement.

Many live life on a skateboard. This guy wheels himself up and down Temple Road all day and the slope is considerable. I am often tempted to offer to push him up the hill when I see him struggling up, but I resist every time.

He looks particularly miserable today so I offer to take his photo. That puts the smile back on his face. I take just a couple of quick shots and show him the results. Cheekily, he asks for Rs 20, but I only give him Rs 10. What a tight ass!

An Eye and a Lens on McLeod Ganj

The days in the village continue to be filled with warmth and beauty.

I seem to find myself doing almost daily koras around the Dalai Lama temple and back garden - although i´m reserving all 108 prayer wheel spinning for "special" occasions. Please note i will do reasonable requests.

There are plenty of cows and their dirt on the path around, but it never seems to put off the series of beggars.

This woman is a regular at the top of the steep incline. The lighting is gorgeous and so is she. Having given my coins out already (Mr Toothy is still situated at the bottom of the hill), I know it´s going to cost me a Rp10 note, but as i hope you will agree, so worth it.

A special day for me to look forward to tomorrow. I am heading down with Mhue for an audience and blessing with Karmapa Lama at his monastery in nearby Sidphur for what i hope will be another Ketchup exclusive. As head of the cool Black Hatted sect of Buddhism, he is seen as an important part of the triumvirate in Tibetan Buddhism hierarchy. Not least due to the abduction of the Panchen Lama.

Mhue has met Karmapa twice before, and indeed K. met him as a toddler in Tibet. As the only High Lama accepted by both Tibetans and the Chinese government, Karmapa is very much the future of the Tibetan freedom movement. It should be special to spend time with him.

An Eye and a Lens on Mcleod Ganj

In McLeod Ganj, there are plenty of beggars in town. Buddhist are seen as a soft touch i guess.

This guy is new in town. He sits all day behind the Dalai Lama temple with his big toothy grin and is making stable money on the pilgrim path. He is all to delighted to pose for me, and loves the result that i show him on the monitor.

G. my Main Man in England, laughed at me when i proposed putting together an exhibition of Indian poverty and disfigurement. I think it´s got real potential, although i would be wary of painting such a bleak picture of India, a country which has so much beauty to share. I´m putting together a few favourite shots of the genre and i´ll carry on my internal dialogue.