Gorillas In The Mist

Parc National des Volcans is located in north western Rwanda. The scenery is dramtic with five volcanoes running along its spine – Karisimbi (4507m), Bisoke (3711m), Sabyinyo (3634m), Gahinga (3474m) and Mahabura (4127m).

Made famous by Dian Fossey, it is home to some 18 habituated gorilla groups; eight for tourists to visit and ten for researchers to monitor. Whilst it is also possible to track gorillas in neighbouring Democratic Republic of Congo and Rwanda, sightings are not guaranteed. Here in Rwanda, the 18 groups are monitored by full-time trackers so sightings are full-proof.

It’s not all about the Mountain Gorillas however, the Park can provide fine hiking experiences as well as opportunities to see the Golden Monkeys too. There are also mountain elephants and buffaloes to spot too. These hikes can also be arranged through the ORTPN office in Kigali or at the Park Headquarters in Kinigi.

For those wishing to see the Mountain Gorillas in Parc National des Volcans, most go through a travel agent in Kigali who can organise the Gorilla Permit and transport to and from the city departing about 4am to the Park Headquarters in Kinigi. Others will arrange a overnight stop or two in Kinigi or Ruhengeri (now renamed as Musauze), As my budget is tight i opt to see the gorillas independently.

Permits are granted through the polite and friendly, if somewhat incompetent ORTPN office in Kigali on the Blvd. de la Revolution. The US$500 payment must be given in cash (perfect bills accepted only) or RFr equivalent. They failed to respond to emails i had sent from Tanzania – a not uncommon event. With numbers limited to 40 a day during high season this can take a while. Fortunately i only have a six day wait. Trying to gain further information on the Volcano National Park and the procedures for the day are unclear, so i decide to head to Ruhengeri to try and find out more concrete information and details.

I opt for the Belvedere Bus Company which depart central Kigali every two hours and costs RFr1,700. Bigger busses are somewhat safer than the minibuses (Virunga run buses every half an hour but cost the same). With less stops however, i complete the journey in two hours whilst minibuses take closer to three hours.

I base myself in Ruhengeri at a Mission hostel – Notre Dame de Fatima, where a single room costs RFr10,000 for an unattached room with mosquito net and sink. The shared facilities are good and the hostel is kept very clean, and has both a restaurant and Internet cafe. It is found just to the west of the town centre.

The day before my permit, i take a motor taxi (RFr2,000) up to the National Park Headquarters in Kisingi about 11kms away. Regular Virunga buses run up and down also. Here i finally get concrete information. All participants for gorilla checking need to arrive at 7am to register at the headquarters in a 4wd. All participants are divided up before heading off in 4wds to different sites. No more than eight tourists are allowed to visit each group thus the necessity for the Gorilla Permits. Permits are limited to 40 a day.

The roads up are both rough and steep and only a 4wd is going to get you there. This is no problem for those on tour groups but somewhat tricky for the independent traveller. I ask the Park Warden for advise and he helpfully puts me in touch with Francis, a local with a pick-up truck. The standard fare is US$80 but he tells me he has three other clients so he will charge US$20. Fair enough methinks.

Feeling totally sorted and extremely hyped for the experience awaiting i am unable to sleep properly. I fall into a dose around 1am before waking at 3.45am and then again at 5am. Francis isn’t due till 6.15am and i am already packed from the night before, so i surf the Net to try calm myself down. It fails but fills in the time right enough.

the gate of the Park Headquarters in Kinigi

Francis arrives precisely on time, but he is apologetic. The three others i am scheduled to share the ride with are bed-ridden with food poisoning. He will have to charge me the full US$80. Drats! But what can i do? We arrive at Park HQ at 6.50am and they have laid on coffee and tea. The other participants drift in slowly, whilst the rangers meet and work out how to divide the groups up. My feet are itching to move and i seriously over-indulge in the free coffee as i impatiently await.

Finally, at 7.50, i am called over to Mr. Oliver with a group on predominantly young English people on a 2 – 4 week Africa tour party. Oliver informs us that we are scheduled to meet the Susa group. This is the largest of all the groups, consisting of some 29 individuals, including three silverbacks, two sets of twins (a rarity) and a three month old baby. The group had once been bigger – up to 42 members but that had subsequently subdivided back in 2008. I’m totally thrilled, but just as i am about to jump into Francis’ pick-up, i am called back over by the head- ranger. He informs me that this group is the furthest away and that the ride will now cost US$100! In fairness, he offers me an alternative group to view, but my desire to hang with the Susa band is overwhelming. Damn the extra expense – Susa it is!

It takes some 50 minutes to drive from the park HQ to Musumba at an altitude of 2565 metres up a really steep and rocky path. Here we have to disembark to hike up through the fields and into the park. We are greeted by our compulsory armed guard and a bunch of porters offering their services for US$5. Walking sticks are provided free of charge. Interestingly it is the youngsters who take up the option of the porters, and probably just as well as most are heavily panting and drag behind the guide who is forced to slacken off the pace. The walk is pretty enough with good panoramas over the hills and through the potato and wheat fields.

agricultural worker in the fields

It takes almost an hour to reach the park boundary and we rest up a while before proceeding. The 24 hour guards following our group inform us that the Susa band are close by.

The bamboo and vegetation is extremely dense – no wonder the park’s other name on the Ugandan side is known as the Impenetrable Forest. Going is slow and tough, with nettles and fire ants for good measure. Nonetheless, it is beautiful and with the light drizzle descending the aroma from the forest is beautifully intense.

Oliver (far left) and our armed escort in the forest

After some 30 minutes Oliver stops us and we can hear the tearing of bamboo up in front. The Susa family are just 200 metres away. We’re told to leave everything apart from cameras with the porters whilst Oliver, our armed guard and eight over-excited tourists head towards the group. My heart is pounding really fast and it’s certainly not due to our elevation – some 2835 metres.

Shadows of individuals against the thick bamboo are seen before we reach a small clearing where some 15 or so individuals become visible. It is a completely breathtaking moment for an incredible encounter.

No encounter is allowed to exceed one hour, for although all eight gorilla groups are habituated, it is important that the gorillas’ stress levels are kept low.

We huddle together next to Oliver in complete awe and wonderment at the spectacle unfolding before our very eyes. The dominant silverback is lying down, with a female and young baby lying against him just five metres from where we are standing. Two juveniles are playing about and chasing each other around the vegetation with younger individuals climbing through the dense bamboo. Crashes and low growls emanate all around us.

Within moments there is a crash from behind us as two juveniles rush into the clearing, pushing me to one side. It doesn’t hurt, but i am completely startled from this direct assault against my back. Another juvenile rushes in too and deliberately slaps a tourist’s ass before he joins in the frolics.

The Ranger calls us in even closer together. Two more such direct encounters are to ensue during our hour long stay, the last one forcing me backwards and i almost go ass over tit over a youngster following directly behind. A magical moment that i’ll never forget. Indeed the whole experience is completely mind-blowing.

dirty faced baby

how cute is this curious toddler?

I guess it’s like visiting any large family in their home. A second silverback calmly finishes dinner, collects a few leaves for a pillow and lies down, scratching his ass and balls periodically. The kids are all playful and get rather over-excited, wrestling and showing their teeth until eventually the Number One silverback can’t take it any more, gets up, roars loudly at the youngsters, beats his chest and rushes into the dense bamboo on just his feet. This quietens them down – at least for a while.

one of the two juveniles playing rough and tumble

the rough and tumble getting a bit out of hand

Adult females look on adoringly at the youngsters, whilst a few individuals are curious at these human animals with their cameras, and stare with mild curiosity but with no fear or alarm whatsoever.

mum fussing over her baby

a curious female checks me out; the lead silverback behind just doesn’t care

such a delicate touch from a huge beast

The silverbacks are so immense, and as they tear down huge thick bamboo stems with the ease of ripping paper, their enormity and strength belie their gentle nature. You are made very much aware that they could rip you into pieces with the same ease.

a very contemplative silverback

a silverback enjoys a good scratch

a silverback sucking his thumb and scratching his balls

if you cut me do i not bleed? A somewhat nasty foot injury on one of the silverbacks

Three girls in our group have tears pouring down their eyes as we gawp spellbound at such a privileged and awesome sight so close to us. They are so human-like in their expressions and daily routines it is eerie beyond belief.

All too fast Oliver informs us that we have 10 minutes left and to get the last of our photos completed. There is so much going on around us i don’t know what to shoot first and madly swap lenses repeatedly to try and capture this truly remarkable spectacle.

Finally it is time to leave, but none of us want to go. I let the others pass as i endeavour to grab just a few extra moments. Indeed Oliver has to return and almost drag me away to the waiting porters and bags. He rhetorically asks if we “have enjoyed the experience?” But all eight of us are speechless. The encounter defies words.

Sadly and silently we return from whence we came as the rain descends on us again, and back at the car, Oliver issues us with Gorilla Tracking certificates.

Local children around Kinigi - very friendly but also a little scared of mzungus



Practicalities for the Budget Individual Travellist:

There are many hotel options in the vicinity of the park but most are aimed the higher end market. I opt to stay in Ruhengeri (now renamed Musauze) and the Notre Dame de Fatima mission is a great option. You could also check out possibilities at Hotel Muhambura on the main thoroughfare. The Relays Gorilla Inn looks quite good with singles/doubles at RFr 15,000/ 20,000 and has a good menu as well. It's just opposite Ecobank.

A real cheapy is the Tourist Inn where a self-contained room is RFr7,000 but the rooms are dark, dank and squalid.

The best restaurant in town is the Volcana Lounge serving pizzas (from Rfr3800) and pasta dishes ranging between RFr3,700 – Rfr5500. It has great volcano views and a fire in the evening. The pizzas and spaghetti bolognaise are good, and they serve the best espressos in town.

Another tasty option is at the Silverback restaurant at The Relays Gorilla Inn. The menu is continental with mains priced between Rfr2,500 - 4,500, although the service can be pretty slow.

Buffets are available at both Green Garden Cafe and Vision 2020 for RFr2000 and RFr1500 with the later considerably more popular.

The coffee-shop at IIshema Hotel does reasonably priced selection of cakes and coffees, although i have had better espressos in Rwanda. Unfortunately the Woodley Coffee Bar is not open at the time of writing as their coffee machine has broken down. It can be found opposite the Ruhengeri Resource Centre which can offer some local information to the passing travellist.

You can try to visit the Karisove Gorilla Research Station, set up by Dian Fossey but it is closed when i tried to visit, or the friendly folk at Gorilla Doctors.

The Ecobank have an international visa ATM although every time i visit, it is out of service.

Motor taxis charge between RFr200 - 300 around the town.

For 4wd transport, i’m happy to recommend the humble and caring Francis. His English is excellent and you can contact him directly on 0788 448 958.

Closer to the Park Headquarters is Kinigi. Here you will find La Paillotte Gorilla Place with rooms ranging from RFr8 – 12,000 and a VIP suite too. Their buffet lunch and dinner is also good and reasonably priced at RFr1,500. Email lapailottegorillaplace@hotmail.com or call 0785523561

Closer still to the Park Headquarters (you can almost roll out of bed) is the Kinigi Guesthouse run to assist vulnerable Rwandan women. Their rooms are nice if a bit pricey with en-suite rooms costing US$40/50 single/double, but they do have a four room dorm at just RFR5,000. Call ahead on 0788 533606.

Mountain Gorillas:

The Mountain Gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei) is one of the two sub-species of the Eastern Gorilla. There are two populations. One is found in the Virunga volcanic mountains of Central Africa, within three national parks: Mgahinga, in south-west Uganda; Volcanoes, in north-west Rwanda; and Virunga in the eastern Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). The other is found in Uganda's Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Some primatologists say that the Bwindi population in Uganda may be a separate sub-species, though no description has been finished.

The fur of the Mountain Gorilla, often thicker and longer than that of other Gorilla species, enables them to live in colder temperatures. Gorillas can be identified by nose prints unique to each individual. Males usually weigh twice as much as the females, and this sub-species is on average the largest of all gorillas. Adult males have more pronounced bony crests on the top and back of their skulls, giving their heads a more conical shape. These crests anchor the powerful masseter muscles, which attach to the mandible. Adult females also have these crests, but they are less pronounced.

Adult males are called silverbacks because a saddle of gray or silver-colored hair develops on their backs with age. The hair on their backs is shorter than on most other body parts, and their arm hair is especially long. Fully erect, males reach 1.9 m (6 ft 3 in) in height, with an arm span of 2.3 m (7 ft 7 in) and weigh 220 kg (490 lb). The tallest silverback recorded was a 1.94 m (6 ft 4 in) individual shot in Alimbongo, northern Kivu in May 1938 and the heaviest was a 1.83 m (6 ft) silverback shot in Ambam, Cameroon which weighed about 266 kg (590 lb).

The Mountain Gorilla is primarily terrestrial and quadrupedal. However, it will climb into fruiting trees if the branches can carry its weight, and it is capable of running bipedally up to 6 m (20 ft). Like all great apes other than humans, its arms are longer than its legs. It moves by knuckle-walking (like the Common Chimpanzee, but unlike the Bonobo and both orangutan species), supporting its weight on the backs of its curved fingers rather than its palms.

The Mountain Gorilla is diurnal, most active between 6:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. Many of these hours are spent eating, as large quantities of food are needed to sustain its massive bulk. It forages in early morning, rests during the late morning and around midday, and in the afternoon it forages again before resting at night. Each gorilla builds a nest from surrounding vegetation to sleep in, constructing a new one every evening. Only infants sleep in the same nest as their mothers. They leave their sleeping sites when the sun rises at around 6 am, except when it is cold and overcast; then they often stay longer in their nests.

The Mountain Gorilla inhabits the Albertine Rift montane cloud forests and of the Virunga Volcanoes, ranging in altitude from 2,200–4,300 metres (7,200–14,100 ft). Most are found on the slopes of three of the dormant volcanoes: Karisimbi, Mikeno, and Visoke. The vegetation is very dense at the bottom of the mountains, becoming more sparse at higher elevations, and the forests where the Mountain Gorilla lives are often cloudy, misty and cold.

The Mountain Gorilla is primarily an herbivore; the majority of its diet is composed of the leaves, shoots and stems (85.8%) of 142 plant species. It also feeds on bark (6.9%), roots (3.3%), flowers (2.3%), and fruit (1.7%), as well as small invertebrates. (0.1%). Adult males can eat up to 34 kilograms (75 lb) of vegetation a day, while a female can eat as much as 18 kilograms (40 lb).

The home range size (the area used by one group of gorillas during one year) is influenced by availability of food sources and usually includes several vegetation zones. George Schaller identified ten distinct zones, including: the bamboo forests at 2,200–2,800 metres (7,200–9,200 ft); the Hagenia forests at 2,800–3,400 metres (9,200–11,200 ft); and the giant senecio zone at 3,400–4,300 metres (11,200–14,100 ft). The Mountain Gorilla spends most of its time in the Hagenia forests, where gallium vines are found year-round. All parts of this vine are consumed: leaves, stems, flowers, and berries. It travels to the bamboo forests during the few months of the year fresh shoots are available, and it climbs into sub-alpine regions to eat the soft centers of giant senecio trees.

A newborn gorilla weighs about 1.8 kilograms (4.0 lb), and spends its first few months of life in constant physical contact with its mother. In their first few months of life, infant Mountain Gorillas ride on their mother's backs. At an earlier stage, the mother will almost constantly be holding the infant. It begins to walk at around four or five months, and starts to put plant parts in its mouth between four and six months. At eight months it regularly ingests solid food.Weaning occur s around three years of age, although juveniles may remain with their mothers for years after that.

Young male and female gorillas are considered infants from birth until three years of age, juvenile between the ages of about three and six, and sub-adult from six to about eight years old. Blackbacks are sexually immature males from around eight years until they have developed the silver saddle and large canines of maturity. Females begin to ovulate at 7 or 8 years of age and have their first infant between the ages of 10 and 12. Males generally do not start breeding before the age of 15.

The Mountain Gorilla has no mating season and females usually initiate mating behavior. The length of their menstrual cycle is about 28 days with 1-3 fertile days, and ovulation ceases for 3–5 years after reproducing. The length of gestation is eight and a half months. Females generally bear one infant every 6 to 8 years, and may leave only 2–6 offspring over a 40 year life span. Males that have harems of 3–4 females increase their reproductive output by fathering 10–20 offspring over 50 years.

The Mountain Gorilla is highly social, and lives in relatively stable, cohesive groups held together by long-term bonds between adult males and females.

Relationships among females are relatively weak. These groups are non-territorial; the silverback generally defends his group rather than his territory. In the Virunga Mountain Gorillas, the average length of tenure for a dominant silverback is 4.7 years.

61% of groups are composed of one adult male and a number of females and 36% contain more than one adult male. The remaining gorillas are either lone males or exclusively male groups, usually made up of one mature male and a few younger males. Group sizes vary from five to thirty, with an average of ten individuals. A typical group contains: one silverback, who is the group's undisputed leader; one or two blackbacks, who act as sentries; three to four sexually mature females, who are ordinarily bonded to the dominant silverback for life; and from three to six juveniles and infants.

Most males, and about 60% of females, leave their natal group. Males leave when they are about 11 years old, and often the separation process is slow: they spend more and more time on the edge of the group until they leave altogether.

The dominant silverback generally determines the movements of the group, leading it to appropriate feeding sites throughout the year. He also mediates conflicts within the group and protects it from external threats. He is the centre of attention during rest sessions, and young animals frequently stay close to him and include him in their games. If a mother dies or leaves the group, the silverback is usually the one who looks after his abandoned offspring, even allowing them to sleep in his nest. Experienced silverbacks are capable of removing poachers' snares from the hands or feet of their group members.

When the dominant silverback dies or is killed by disease, accident, or poachers, the family group may be severely disrupted. Unless he leaves behind a male descendant capable of taking over his position, the group will either split up or be taken over in its entirety by an unrelated male. When a new silverback takes control of a family group, he may kill all of the infants of the dead silverback. This practice of infanticide is an effective reproductive strategy, in that the newly acquired females are then able to conceive the new male's offspring. Infanticide has not been observed in stable groups.

Severe aggression is rare in stable groups, but when two Mountain Gorilla groups meet, the two silverbacks can sometimes engage in a fight to the death, using their canines to cause deep, gaping injuries. The entire sequence has nine steps:
(1) progressively quickening hooting
(2) symbolic feeding
(3) rising bipedally
(4) throwing vegetation
(5) chest-beating with cupped hands
(6) one leg kick
(7) sideways running, two-legged to four-legged
(8) slapping and tearing vegetation
(9) thumping the ground with palms to end display

quaffing down the young fresh bamboo shoots

after eating it's time for a rest

The midday rest period is an important time for establishing and reinforcing relationships within the group. Mutual grooming reinforces social bonds, and helps keep hair free from dirt and parasites. It is not as common among gorillas as in other primates, although females groom their offspring regularly. Young gorillas play often and are more arboreal than the large adults. Playing helps them learn how to communicate and behave within the group. Activities include wrestling, chasing and somersault, and just playing around. The silverback and his females bogies even participate if encouraged.

Twenty-five distinct vocalizations are recognized, many of which are used primarily for group communication within dense vegetation. Sounds classified as grunts and barks are heard most frequently while traveling, and indicate the whereabouts of individual group members. They may also be used during social interactions when discipline is required. Screams and roars signal alarm or warning, and are produced most often by silverbacks. Deep, rumbling belches suggest contentment and are heard frequently during feeding and resting periods. They are the most common form of intragroup communication.

For reasons unknown, Mountain Gorillas that have been studied appear to be naturally afraid of certain reptiles. Infants, whose natural behavior is to chase anything that moves, will go out of their way to avoid chameleons and caterpillars. Koko, the western lowland gorilla trained in sign language, is afraid of crocodiles and alligators, even though she was born in captivity and has never seen them. They are also afraid of water and will cross streams only if they can do so without getting wet (i.e. crossing over fallen logs). Dian Fossey observed and noted the Mountain Gorilla's obvious dislike of rain, as well.

Mountain Gorillas are threatened by poaching, loss of habitat, and disease.
• Poaching: Mountain Gorillas are not usually hunted for bush-meat, but they are frequently maimed or killed by traps and snares intended for other animals. They have been killed for their heads, hands, and feet, which are sold to collectors. Infants are sold to zoos, researchers, and people who want them as pets. The abduction of infants generally involves the loss of at least one adult, as members of a group will fight to the death to protect their young. Poaching for meat is particularly threatening in regions of political unrest. Most of the African great apes survive in areas of chronic insecurity, where there is a breakdown of law and order. The killing of mountain gorillas at Bikenge in Virunga National Park in January 2007 was a well documented case.
• Habitat loss: The forests where Mountain Gorillas live are surrounded by rapidly increasing human settlement. The humans' need for land, food, and timber encroaches on the gorillas' habitat through roads, slash-and-burn agriculture, and logging. The resulting deforestation confines the gorillas to isolated deserts . Some groups may raid crops for food, creating further animosity and retaliation.
• Disease: Humans and gorillas are genetically similar enough that gorillas are vulnerable to many humans. However, gorillas have not developed the immunities to resist human diseases, and infections could severely impact the population. Habituated groups that are visited by tourists have the greatest risk.
• War and civil unrest: Civil wars and weak governments in central Africa, and in particular in the Congo, put conservation efforts at risk from local militias and government corruption.

The Mountain gorillas are at a critical state of endangerment. The last census in 2002 gave numbers of just 700. However with a new census due out shortly it is thought that this may rise to between 800 – 850. Whether this is a viable number to sustain their existence is debatable with such a small gene pool. It has been observed that many individuals are now been born with either webbed fingers or toes – a common sign of inter-breeding.

Conservation requires work at many levels, from local to international, and involves protection and law enforcement as well as research and education:
• “Active conservation includes frequent patrols in wildlife areas to destroy poacher equipment and weapons, firm and prompt law enforcement, census counts in regions of breeding and ranging concentration, and strong safeguards for the limited habitat the animals occupy."
• "Theoretical conservation seeks to encourage growth in tourism by improving existing roads that circle the mountains, by renovating the park headquarters and tourists' lodging, and by the habituation of gorillas near the park boundaries for tourists to visit and photograph."
• Community-based conservation supports African ownership, provides education on the personal as well as environmental benefits of preserving protected areas, and encourages local people to take pride in and assume some of the responsibility for the protection of their parks.

The Rwandan people have realized the importance of the mountain gorillas and their natural habitat. They have created Kwita Izina - the Baby Gorilla Naming Ceremony in which each baby gorilla gets a name.

Researchers recently discovered that about 800,000 years ago, the mountain gorilla had evolved from the eastern gorilla.

Rules of Engagement:

• Anyone with illness should not track the gorillas. They are susceptible to sharing our diseases
• Eating, drinking and smoking are not allowed inside the park
• Flash photography is not allowed – it upsets the gorillas
• Speak very quietly
• Don’t point at the gorillas – it can make them paranoid
• Follow all instructions given by the ranger, and stick close together
• You are not meant to get closer than seven metres to an individual gorilla – but nobody has told the gorillas this
• Stand still when faced with a charging silverback, crouch low and look away. Running away is likely to be the end of you
• Do not leave anything in the park – take out what you bring in – keep this incredible ecosystem pristine

What To Bring:

• Good walking boots are imperative – the path is usually wet and slippery
• Long trousers – stinging nettles and fire ants abound
• Long sleeved waterproof jacket – any time of year can see rain
• Water and snacks – these are not available at the park headquarters
• Insect repellent

Photographic Tips:

Getting decent photographs is somewhat tricky for several reasons. The forest is very dense and lighting conditions are extremely variable. I always like to shoot at lowest possible ISO ratings for clarity of pixels, but using my 70 – 300mm lens i am pretty much forced to shoot ISO 1000 and above – even on large aperture setting. Fortunately we get pretty close to the gorillas at times and i am able to switch to my 50mm standard fixed lens which undoubtedly produce the best results.

Being black in hue the gorillas can play havoc with the light metering. I found it best to shoot on spot metering rather than my usual matrix metering.

It sounds obvious but the jungle is well jungle-like. The best photos are ones unobstructed from vegetation; no easy feat with branches and leaves everywhere. Attempt to get different angles by moving around slightly.

Whilst it’s tempting to get in close, try and use wider angles to be able to put the gorillas in their natural environment.

up, close and personal

Gorillas are shy animals indeed and for long periods of time they just sit with their backs to my ever-poised lenses. Patience is a must – some will turn round and you need to be ready for the moment.

If you’re anything like me you’ll be shooting to excess. Make sure you have enough film/room on your memory card. I shot 260 images in the one hour encounter.

Obvious again, but make sure your batteries are fully charged.

Finally, even though the temptation is to shoot away like mad given a tight one hour limit, it is so worthwhile to take time out from your view-finder. Sit back, relax and just watch the overall scene around you. It’s truly remarkable.

So – was it worth the US$500 i hear you ask? The experience was completely priceless. Although not confirmed, rumours abound that the price will be US$1000 starting January 1st 2011. I’d probably pay that also. It is important to remember that the money not only stimulates the Rwandan economy (i heard it accounts for 40% of Rwanda’s GNP) but also directly helps to protect these beautiful animals too.

Editor Adds: Please be reminded that all photographs from A Leap Into The Dark are copyright and should not be downloaded. But please feel free to view and enjoy them on the site. That is what they are here for.