Busing, Hitching and Hiking across Lahaul, Spiti and Upper Kinnaur

It´s been almost nine years since my last puja (Mount Kailash, Western Tibet in July and August 2000), and it has been made very clear to me recently that it is about time for another. So it´s back on the high roads and onto the Tibetan plateau.

The route i am taking is known as the Himachal Pradesh Buddhist pilgrimage trail, taking in some of the World´s oldest (and highest) monasteries. The unromantically named National Highways 21 and 22 loops this remote and desolate region (high altitude cold desert) which is only accessible in it´s entirety for three months a year.

Geography, Geology and Climate

The Himalayan mountain range is just a baby in comparison to others - a piffling 50 billion years old. Spiti is known as the "fossil park of the World". The land is very dry except for the Spiti river and it´s tributaries.


The Spiti River outside Kaza

Thawing ice and flash floods through the sedimentary rock and alkaline soil leaves behind dramatic formations, most notably around Chhatu Dara, Kaza and Dhankar.


Rock formations outside Dhankar

Less than 34,000 people live in over 14,000 square kilometres of mountain terrain making it one of the World´s remotest and least densely populated areas on the planet.

The altitude varies between 3,200 - 4,500 metres along the NH21 and 22 with many Himalayan peaks as a dramatic 6,000+ metre backdrop.



When the sun is out - it feels hot, even if the temperature rarely hits 20 degrees in the summer. As soon as you´re in the shade you feel the chill and even on summer nights, thermals are highly recommended. It is not uncommon for temperatures to drop well below -30 degrees centigrade in winter.


Brief Religious History of the Region

It has been claimed by several that after Lord Buddha reached enlightenment at Bodgayur, he came through Himachal Pradesh spreading the dharma in about 530BC. It has certainly been documented that the great Indian Tantric Guru Padmasambhava (also known as Guru Rinpoche) came through during the eighth century on his way to bringing Buddhism into Tibet.

The Bonnists fought back, quite literally, pushing the new Buddhist converts into Spiti valley during the eighth century. The new migrants often built their new settlements and gompas as forts amongst the mountain tops. The vicious battles fought here are said to have been the inspiration for Tibetan Chhaam Dances.

People

The people of Lahaul and Spiti are known for their generosity of spirit. Throughout the region you will be greeted with "julay" or "namaste" and rather than the typically Indian "what is your country´s good name?" you are more likely to be asked the far more practical "where are you going?"

Stoic and proud, the Good Earth Buddhist Trail hypothesizes that this is due to their isolationism and the realisation that this is a land where no man can survive alone; they are always ready to help a passing traveller.


Lahaulian women hanging out on the streets of Keylong

The people can so easily make a place more memorable - and these kind and generous Lahaulian and Spitians certainly do - they're the tops!


Flora and Fauna

There is at least eight National Parks to help protect this area of outstanding beauty and unique ecosystems. Fauna include the ever elusive snow leopard, Tibetan wolf, brown fox, ibex, blue sheep, marmots and other small rodents and reptiles. Not many plants can survive altitudes above 4,000 metres. The ones that do certainly stand out. This is also the home of the highly regarded seabuckthorn plant known for many medicinal properties.


strange flower outside Tabo monastery


wild rose

Getting There and Away

There are only two points of entry/exit to this region - The Rohtang Pass (reached by Manali)and Rekong Peo (via Shimla). To get into the heart Spiti Valley is only possible when the Kunzum pass is open (June - October - if you're lucky!). Private vehicles can usually cross in mid-June, but government buses won´t make it to the pass until somewhat later than this.

There are several morning local buses out of Manali and I get on the 7am bus with no seats. It takes about 2 hours to meander up through Manali to the Rohtang La and I´m jostled all the way, regularly having my head bashed against the ceiling as the journey goes through several switchbacks.

Indian tourists are out in force, using the Rohtang Pass as a snow experience. Mock fur coats, boots and ski-suits are all for rent from literally several hundred stalls on the way up. For many it is their first experience of snow, and they line up along the mountain for their photos taken, snow-ball fighting, snowman building, pony rides, yak rides, inflatable inner-tubes, etc. Anything goes. Plenty of dhabas offer hot drinks and snacks on route.

The landscape from the top of the pass is extraordinary - with steep snow-capped peaks surrounding you on all sides.


At 3978 metres, the Rohtang La (translates as "pile of dead bodies pass") is one of the two gateways into the area


Over the pass and the bus stops for a short break at Koskar, where you are meant to register at the police checkpoint.

The journey takes between 5-7 hours to get to Keylong from Manali for a journey of 115kms and currently costs Rs105.

Keylong


Keylong (elevation 3,350 metres) is the administrative hub of Lahaul and is thus quite a busy and thriving town. Indeed, as the regular stop-over point for buses to and from Ladakh there have been an increasing migration here from other North Indian areas as well as Nepal.

Keylong has several gompas in the vicinity and I get an opportunity to visit three of them.

About 5kms up a steep hill behind the old bus stand lies Shashur Gompa.


It´s name derives from the blue pine trees in it´s vicinity. This Dugpa monastery boasts gigantic tangkas, and was originally built in the 16th Century by the Zanskari lama Deva Gyatsho, a missionary for Nawang Namgial, King of Bhutan.

prayer wheels


inside the gompa

Chhaam dances are held here during June/July


a monk in the prayer room

It might be possible to walk to Tayul monastery from an adjacent path, but my legs are too tired to go on further.

The Kardang monastery, known as the monastery on stilts, lies across the Bhagu river and is a 5km - 7km hike through the old town. Renovated in 1912 by the Lama Norbu, its origins are over 900 years old.


The complex has four temples, one containing the ashes of Lama Norbu, and another containing several volumes of Kangyur and Tangyur texts. There are also some great thangkas and a collection of musical instruments. I am told I cannot take photos inside the gompa - which soon becomes the way for almost the entire trip.


the front door of the gompa


an old monk in the Kardang complex

At the bottom of this hill you can also find the Jabjes gompa.


interior of Jabjes

In Keylong there is also a Tribal Museum (10am - 5pm Tuesdays to Sundays, admission free) which has potential although they have only two of the exhibition rooms open for my visit.

I am staying in the Drabla Guesthouse next to the new bus-stand. It is conveniently located, quite clean and boasts excellent views of the valley.

Bedroom view

There are a few restaurants in town, the best probably being Tashi Daleg. The Lamayuru Guesthouse does good breakfasts.

Gondla



Lying 18kms from Keylong, even it´s name evokes visions of The Lord of the Rings, let alone the dramatic scenery and the medieval 8 story timber and stone fort that dominates this small village.



Gondla also boasts its own gompa, but there is nobody around to let me in. Instead,I spend some time sharing a cigarette with a local farmer on the gompa steps.



The private guesthouse is not open and the only place to stay is the government PWD - like all PWD rest-houses in the area charging an exorbitant Rs 1000 a night!

The manager is clearly trying to dissuade me from staying. "Yes, it is very expensive Sir" he keeps saying, but I am adamant and show him the colour of my cash. The room is musty, and judging by the calender on the wall, I don´t think anyone has stayed here since 2005.

Sonam´s on the main road does decent momos and will rustle up a cheap breakfast. It costs Rs15 by bus from Keylong.


view from the fort over Gondla

Chhota Dara



To enter the Spiti valley the junction can be found at Gramphu. I have to wait an an and a half before hitching a ride through to the three building settlement of Chhota Dara, about 30kms into the turn-off. The road quality slowly declines as you enter into the parched Spiti environment. There is only a PWD rest-house, but the manager is particularly helpful and invites me to share his bunk and food for the night.

Pill, a Geordie traveller has been staying there. Pill is great, and is worthy of his own blog article. He is also trying to hitch onwards, but has already waited for a lift for more than a day. Kunzum pass has only been accessible for the last three days, and there is hardly any traffic moving in any direction. By 4pm a vehicle pulls up for him and he is onwards and upwards at last.

I walk up the valley, meeting and greeting shepherds with horses, goats and sheep. These pasture have only just melted and there is now fresh food for their flocks.


up-river from Chhota Dara


down-river from Chhota Dara

The evening and night sky are ablaze with stars, although it´s bloody cold. We share a veg curry and rice and it´s early to bed.


evening skies over Chhota Dara

The Journey Over the Kunzum Pass

Aware of Pill´s difficulties on the road yesterday, I am all packed and ready to hit the road by 7am. There are a couple of vehicles coming down from the pass, but nothing heading up.

Just before 10am a tractor comes into view. What a way to head up the daunting Kunzum La - peaking at 4551 metres!

The tractor pulls up for me and is heading on to Lossar, the first settlement after the pass. Unfortunately the three guys seem to have a fuel problem. Whislt they have a spare fuel tank on the tractor carriage, the siphon is not working properly. All three men swallow endless gulps of four star as they fail to top up the engine. It takes a further 30 minutes to change the hose and hitting the road up the pass.



It is very difficult to get comfy as the road deteriorates further and the carriage jolts it´s way slowly upwards. The road is single track and sheep and other vehicles regularly block our route .

After more than two hours, we have inched up to Batal (a distance of about 12kms). The fumes from the petrol tank has been stifling and I am grateful to be able to jump down and rehydrate at one of the dhabas. I meet up with Pill again who got wrecked on arak with the locals last night and is looking very much worse for wear.

Batal is the jumping point for those trekking to Chandratal (Moon Lake) some 14kms away. There are tents set up where i am told one can stay, but as yet, the tents have not been erected.



Now that we re-board the tractor, I am aware that I am not feeling well at all. Nauseous, migraine, light-headedness, these are all the tell - tale signs of AMS. I have never experienced this before, but I am well aware that this changes age. Suddenly it dawns on me, this isn´t AMS, this is petrol poisoning. As we climb higher, i am breathing in the fumes more heavily as I try and raise my oxygen levels. I am slowly being poisoned.

As we approach the top of the pass, the weather changes from warm blue skies, to grey snow-clouds and thick flakes are falling. The temperature drops sharply and can hardly see the chortens on the top of the pass.



The switchbacks are plentiful as we finally begin to head down the other side. Yak and mixed cattle herds dot the mountain-side and I settle into the back ready to vomit and/or pass out. Arriving into Lossar at about 4pm, I have never been so happy to arrive anywhere. This has been one of the most challenging days I have had on the road for a very long time.

Lossar



This small settlement has a very rural feel to it. Again, there is another police checkpoint, and there are at least three small guesthouses offering pretty much the same deal. I opt for the Serchu GH. My front-facing room lies above the large communal prayer wheel which tings when turned. Needless to say it goes continually throughout the day and night, and whilst at first as a quaint touch, it soon becomes quite annoying.

After a short lie down in an attempt to revitalize myself from the noxious gases, I giddily get up and explore this small village.

There is a small and quite new gompa towards the back of the village, with a sign that requests visitors "don´t pass urine around the temple area". Fair enough methinks.



Whilst looking very traditional, like all the villages in Spiti, they are geared to electricity, and electric wires, solar panels and satellite dishes, which can be found and almost any small shack. This is the first (and only village) which seems to have a steady supply of electricity in the valley. I should know - the light-bulb has no switch in my room, too hot to toch, and so remains on the whole night.


check out the wires and solar panels

The Samsong GH and restaurant seems to be the only place that has anything that vaguely resembles a menu and is popular in the evening. A projector is set up outside by an enterprising guy and he shows Indian MTV videos and films projected on a cafe wall.



There is a 7am local bus onto Kaza. It stops at a small village called Hull before arriving in at 9.30am.

Kaza



Kaza is the closest you´ll come come to a proper town in Spiti valley. It acts as the administrative centre for the region, with a bustling market-place and again, a substantial migrant population.

Travellists can collect their "Inner Line permit" that allows them to travel further west than Dhankar and into Upper Kinnaur. Bring two copies of your passport and Indian visa page, and two photographs to the Assistant District Commissioner´s Office and complete a short form. Then take this across to the police station (close to the river) for authentication and return your stamped form to the ADC Office - it takes about a couple of hours. The pass is valid for travel between Tabo and Jangi from 7 days from the date requested.


the view from behind Kaza gompa

Permits can also be collected at Shimla and Rekong Peo, but will cost Rs150. The Shimla office seems reluctant to issue the Inner Line Permits to single travellers - the letter of the law states that you should be in a minimum group of four.


painting the new chortens

The town´s gompa is now nearing completion and looks magnificent. The Dalai Lama was hoping to hold the Kalachakra here last year, but this has now been postponed. A completely unconfirmed rumour is going round that HHDL may retire here.


HHDL´s new retirement home?

There are many eating and accommodation options in town. I am staying at the Dekgit Gatsel GH close to the river for the early morning sun, again offering excellent views across the valley. For food, there are plenty of restaurants offering a wide variety of food items including Tibetan, Indian, Israeli and Mexican. Check out Mobohay "World Peace" cafe, which also adds Korean and Japanese food to their ensemble. The Nepali-run German Bakery does excellent yak cheese omelet sandwiches and some very drinkable espressos.



There are also Internet facilities here (providing the electricity is working!) I got in 20 minutes during the entire three days I was here.

Kaza also makes a very useful base for visits to nearby Kee (7kms) and Kibber (16kms). Taxis plough the routes around, but are unionised and prices are not dissimilar to London´s black cabs. There is only one evening bus a day to these two villages.

Kee


Set over 4000 metres, and with a history of just over a thousand years this stunning village and gompa of Kee is nothing short of stunning. Yet it has had a tragic history due to both attacks by humans (on at least three different occasions) and nature - there was a huge earthquake in 1975 which resulted in a fair amount of restructuring.


one of more than 300 monks that are based at Kee

Kee gompa was originally attacked by Mongals and converted from a Sakyapa to a Gelukpa monastery. The monastery was attacked again during the Kullu - Ladakh, and Dogra - Sikh wars.


the main door to the gompa

a baby left on the steps of the gompa

Although photography is not allowed inside the temples you can get a glimpse of the kitchens which are pretty impressive, and there are plenty of 800 year old Tangyur and Kangyur texts, thangkas and old weapons to be viewed. The monks will gather a small group of people and run small tours. Accommodation is offered in the monk´s cells.


the kitchen at the gompa


The annual chhaam festival is usually held in the first half of July.


a lone monk outside a beautiful village



Kibber


9kms up from Kee, Kibber at over 4264 metres once boasted being the highest village with a road in the world. This is no longer the case - there is a small settlement which is now higher in Bolivia. Not to be outdone, Kibber is now the highest village with electricity, although apart from all the dodgy wiring around town and the presence of light-bulbs, there is no evidence that any of it works while I´m there. The road is now almost entirely sealed.


traditional houses on the ridge

The village has an old and beautiful gompa (one of the highest in the world!), but it is rather in a state of disrepair.


girl in front of gompa

Although there is a smattering of guest houses, there appears to be only one restaurant (Norling Guest House), and only two shops in town.


older resident

A Traditional Spitian Wedding

Every time I come to Kibber, there is always something going on in town. On my previous visit 15 years ago, the village was in the middle of the Landarcha fair (now held annually in Kaza) where I enjoyed a surreal ferrous wheel ride. This year there is a wedding in the village.

The bride is from Kibber whilst her new husband originates from Kaza where the party was happening yesterday. The party arrive here in the afternoon. Almost all guests are me, wearing their traditional finery, and are led by a small musical party playing tamborines, drums and a screechy oboe-like instrument. They meander through the town to the bride´s house where they gather outside.



Women at the bride´s house are waiting on the roof. As the groom´s party gather outside the door, they are bombarded with flour.




wedding guests

After about 30 minutes the bride comes out of her family home in floods of tears. She is escorted by the equivalent of a Matron of Honour who will accompany the new bride to her husbands house for the first week of the marriage. The bride´s tears are ceremonial, she is now leaving her home for good and being adopted into her husband´s family.

The music and procession begin again, visiting different houses in the village, before returning to the bride´s house for one last but very important visit.


a rare moment - the bride smiling

The village shamen has been called to find omens for the newly weds. To do this he has to evoke the soul of Purgil - the Mountain spirit. A small group of us have gathered in a darkened robe. The middle-aged shamen is assisted by two others - one looks like an ordained monk and stands alongside to the shamen´s left throughout the ceremony. The other assistant is holding a very large bottle of what looks like arak.


the village shamen evokes Purgil - the Mountain Spirit

To the sound of the screeching oboe, the shamen disappears under a red cowl with a white silk ribbon. He begins to chant and wail, and starts to vibrate. This gradually intensifies until he finally throws off the hood and holds out his brass goblet. The assistant pours out a liberal measure of arak which the shamen downs in one. This is done at least a half a dozen times. The shamen is vibrating throughout, his eyes rolled back, and he is throwing what looks like an epileptic fit - think Ian Curtis singing Transmission.


shamen in action part one

The shamen then spits back into his goblet and he give his prediction which seem to be favourable. Then the party move outside the room to collect the dowry which is literally a large and fully packed silver-coloured trunk.


shamen in action part 2

Come evening and everyone is at some state of inebriation.

Dhankar


I walk out from Kaza and pick up a couple of short lifts down the road, past the Pin Valley turn-off, before hitching a ride on another tractor from Sichiling (population 87 informs the village sign.)


another tractor journey


There is no photograph that can really do Dhankar justice. It´s solitary beauty is exceptional.



About 29kms east of Kaza, this village is set up the valley from the village of Sichiling. It translates as the ”palace on the cliff.” It was thought that once upon a time it was the capital of Spiti which perhaps accounts for its fortification. It dates from about 700AD.

The old gompa boasts a life-size silver statue of Vajrahara, the Diamond Being in a glass alter and Lonely Planet describe the views from the monastery roof that “inspire euphoria.” Below this is a small museum with some old artefacts.



Further up the hill is the fort, as well as a second prayer hall with murals of Sakyamuni.



A further hour´s climb brings one to a small lake with views over the twin peaks of Mane Rang.

There is a resident population of about 150 monks. The new monastery is under renovation, but offers accommodation to travellist, although I did hear of a complaint that some monks were looking at women guests in the shower.


the new gompa getting a lick of paint

Every November the monastery celebrate the Guktor festival.


A Spitian Homestay

As I make my way from Kaza to Dhankar I meet a local woman and her son on the road and she invites me to stay at her home in Dhankar.

Her traditional homestay provides a very authentic backdrop to the village. On the ground floor are the family´s livestock including goats, sheep and a cow. On top of the stairwell to the animals is the toilet. Like all toilets in Ladakh - it is literally a hole in the dirt, which immediately deposits any proceeds directly to the compost.



On the first floor there are four rooms. One of the rooms is the kitchen/dining area and the rest are bedrooms. My room is quite comfy. There is a small shrine built in which contains colour photos of the children, some fossil samples, a fox´s skull and some old coins. Attached by a chain to the curtains is a stuffed weasel - somewhat bizarre.



They make me a delicious spinach in ewe-cream sauce with rice for supper, and i also enjoy the chapati and jam breakfast. Unfortunately there is only chai to drink (i never "do" tea) and I can´t find any shops to buy an alternative. The Monastery GH has a small stall, but at the time i visit they have nothing to sell.


the kitchen is the focal area of any Spitian home

The house is spotless although there is a very pungent smell of livestock permeating throughout. Although I am staying at the Tenzin Home-stay there are at least three home-stay options in town. Pay Rs300 for the experience all inclusive.

Tabo

About 47kms east of Kaza, Tabo is the only other town in Spiti, and it is very much centred around the 1000 year old monastery - rightly listed as a World Heritage site. The gompa complex covers 6,300 square metres and is formed into a huge mandala.


Tabo from the old gompa


There are nine temples in all, some older than others. No cameras are permitted inside.



The Temple of the Enlightened Gods (gTug-Lha-khang)

This is also known as the assembly hall (du-khang) and is quite the core of the complex. This has a vestibule, an assembly hall and a sanctum. The central figure of this hall is the four-fold figure of Vairocana. In Vajrayana Buddhism, he is regarded as one of the five spiritual sons of Adibuddha- who was the self-created primordial Buddha. With awesome majesty he sits larger than life about two meters above the floor. He is depicted in a posture turning the wheel of law. On brackets arrayed along the walls and with stylized flaming circles around them are life sized stucco images of what are commonly called the Vajradhatu Mandala. Thirty-three in all these are other deities of the pantheon, for example Vajrasattva (rDo-re-dSems-pa) the 'soul of the thunderbolt.'

With five Bodhisattvas of the Good Age placed within, the sanctum is immediately behind the assembly hall. The walls around the stuccoes are richly adorned with wall paintings that depict the life of the Buddha. These have a purely Indian artistic style as it is said that the artists were specially summoned from Kashmir.

The Golden Temple (gSer-khang)

Once said to have been layered with gold, this temple was exhaustively renovated in the 16th century by Senge Namgyal, ruler of Ladakh. The walls and ceilings are covered with outstanding murals.


the new gompa at Tabo

The Mystic Mandala Temple / Initiation Temple (dKyil-kHor- khang)

The wall facing the door has a huge painting of Vairocana who is surrounded by eight Bodhisattvas. Mystic Mandalas cover the other areas. Here the initiation to monkhood takes place.

The Bodhisattva Maitreya Temple (Byams-Pa Chen-po Lha-khang)

This has an image of the Bodhisattva Maitreya that is over six meters high. The temple has a hall, vestibule and sanctum. The array of murals within also depicts the monastery of Tashi-Chunpo and Lhasa's Potala palace.

The Temple of Dromton (Brom-ston Lha khang)

A small portico and long passage leads to its hall. The doorway is intricately carved and the inner walls are covered with murals. It lies on the northern edge of the complex and is regarded to have been founded by Dromton (1008-1064 AD) an important disciple of Atisha.

The above are accepted as the earliest temples of the Tabo complex and the following are later additions.

The Chamber of Picture Treasures (Z'al-ma)

This is a kind of an ante room attached to the Enlightened Gods temple. It is covered with beautiful paintings of the Tibetan style.



The Large Temple of Dromton (Brom-ston Lha khang)

The second largest temple in the complex, this has a floor area of over 70 sq m, while the portico and niche add another 42 sq m. The front wall has the figure of Sakyamuni flanked by Sariputra and Maha Maugdalayana. The outer walls depict the eight Medicine Buddhas and Guardian Kings. The wooden planks of the ceiling are also painted.

The Mahakala Vajra Bhairava Temple (Gon-khang)

This enshrines the protective deity of the Galuk-pa sect. Fierce deities fill the room and it is only entered after protective meditation. At times it is called the 'temple of horror'.

The White Temple (dKar-abyum Lha-Khang)

The walls of this temple are also adorned leaving a low dado for the monks or nuns to lean against.

Now I know little about thangkas, but the artistry in these temples are simply magical with rich earthy colours and sublime details despite their age.

Most guest houses in are found close to the temple complex, but I am staying at Trojan GH on the main road. Lonely Planet claim this is the hot-spot run by Spitian Rastas. Apart from the long-haired Rocky, and a sign outside offering "Baba sound system. Best tunes in the valley" - some boast indeed, but without any electricity, it remains unproven. Rooms are more expensive than expected, but with perseverance discounts can be sorted.

There is another Nepali owned German Bakery near the gompa complex.


The Road From Tabo to Nako

I´m on the road out of Tabo at 9am, but nothing is going down my way. It´s therefore a local bus at 11am that I catch for Nako Lake. I hook up with Adi (an Israeli) and Kita (a hippie child who also wins a unique blog entry).

The road follows the narrowing gorge of Spiti valley before soaring over the ridge into the Subtej river. What Lonely Planet call the “most dangerous and hair-raising road in India”, although it does have some stiff opposition.

Past Hurling and before arriving into Sumdo there is a turn-off to the left that leads to Giu. Giu boasts a modern miracle. Whilst working on border patrol, a guard struck his ice-pick into snow and blood pored out of a skull of an ancient mummified body. A special mausoleum has been built and I am told it is possible to pay homage to this new deity.

A permit check is held at Sumdo before the bus continues past the attractive looking and gompa-ridden village of Chango. The bus detours 7kms off the NH22 to the tranquil and picturesque village of Nako, lying just 12kms from the border with Tibetan. The ride takes three hours after ripping an inner-tube on the way. (Similarly this happens on the returning bus also).

Nako - The End of My Road


The village is something of an oasis, with beans, peas and potato fields and two natural lakes. It is clearly also very religious. Prayers flags and old crumbling chortens adorn the neighbouring hillsides. The village is famous for it´s green lake with surrounding poplar and willow trees.



The old monastery (also known as Lotsava Ihakhang – the complex of the translator) was badly damaged in the 1975 earthquake and looters stole the gold from the murals. There are four halls to this complex.


a door to one of the four temples at the old gompa

The new gompa looks somewhat different to previous monasteries I have seen so far on this trip and reflect a strong Kinnaur influences. There is also a small tribal museum which was closed.



There are two older ruins to be found in this area - Tahigang and Somang, but you may need a guide to find these.

Nako also boasts a shrine of Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) where you can pay homage to his footprint as well as fingerprint. This shrine can be found close to the lake in what looks like a flimsy and rather tatty looking shack. All I will say is the footprint (and indeed fingerprint) look more yeti than human.


a yeti footprint?

My body is by now in rebellion against me. I have serious diarrhoea, my skin has started peeling away from my face and my lips have been severely cracked under the sun. My legs hurt and my feet, socks and boots want to disown me. This seems a fitting end to my puja and gives me a day of rest and washing before turning back from whence I came.

I stay at the comfortable Lakeview GH and frequent the excellent Tibetan Kitchen that serves tasty shaskshuka. The only other eatery is the Rio Purguil which has an extensive menu, slow and inefficient service and offers fairly uninspiring creations.


a very sun-burnt Aubs outside Nako at the puja´s end. Photo courtesy of Kita


Heading Home

some footage of one of the most dangerous roads in India - Nako to Tabo


attack of the sheep


the Kunzum Pass in more tranquil weather


gridlock on Rohtang Pass



With over a thousand Indians on holiday on the Rohtang Pass it takes 5 hours to cover about 40kms back to Manali. What a way to greet "civilisation!"

What to Bring

* good comfortable walking boots
* a torch/flashlight - electricity is erratic and some of those monastery interiors are dark
* thermals - it gets really cold there even in summer
* cash - no ATMs are available in the region
* UV protection - those rays are bright!

Dangers and Annoyances

* Acute Mountain Sickness - to get over the Kunzum pass will take you above 4,500 metres
* Local buses won´t attempt the Kunzum pass until 2 -3 weeks before and after the pass is open
* Expensive "unionised" taxi prices
* Motion sickness - there are a lot of hairpins and switchbacks
* Low ceilings (in houses and buses) for tall people
* Dehydration - it´s easy to get caught short. I always carry a bottle of something
* PWD accommodation - whilst found in every village, at Rs1000 they are severely overpriced
* Travelling - be prepared to travel real slow along the road, it´s rough in parts
* No IDEA mobile signal (BSNL and AIRTEL seem ok)
* almost no photography is allowed inside the monasteries. If I am not using a flash, I cannot damage the artifacts!
* UV protection (which i never use) is required here - those rays are bright!


Getting Around

Most travellists arrive and depart from these valleys on a jeep - or more specifically a Tata Spacio from an agent in Manali or Shimla. Guided tours can be arranged from almost any travel agent in these towns. There are some good deals around.

Popular with several international travellers as well as Delhites are motorbikes - most notably Royal Bullet 350s. Mechanics can be found in almost any small settlement, although wisely, most riders are carrying additional fuel tanks, large panniers, know a bit about bikes and know how to ride them safely on some pretty rough roads. I´m too light-weight for this.

For die-hard cyclists, these valleys will fulfill your every wish. You don´t even need a decent imported bike, judging by a middle-aged Italian woman who was going around on an old Indian three gear machine. Ouch!

Taxis are possible in some large settlements (most notably Kaza), but are very expensive.

Local buses plough the road - sometimes two a day! Slow, uncomfortable for tall travellers and prone to breakdowns.

Thumbing rides worked well for me - and indeed did inspire Shelley and others to give it a go. Contrary to Lonely Planet, i found most traffic coming up from Rekong Peo. Being early in the season, sometimes there was no more than a dozen vehicles coming through a day. I found a "Namaste" greeting (palms pressed together and a slight "wobble" of the head) was quite effective in getting rides. No truck stopped - maybe insurance problems?


Food

Not many people will travel to this region for its´culinary delights.

Tibetan staples and food can be found in almost every settlement. Thukpa and momos are generally tasty and safe. Good Indian food can be found in most large settlements, although the chicken dishes are almost always very bony. Some fresh lamb and mutton can be found in Kaza and Tabo.

Thanks to Israelis there are several places serving up salads, humus, falafel, and shakshuka can be found in an interesting variety of dhabas.

Not surprisingly, by eating local food, costs are kept low. You can find pizzas and cheesecakes, in a few eateries, but you pay for them and they are not always very good.

I have mentioned notable restaurants in the appropriate section of my travels.

Accommodation

The Government run PWD rest-houses can be found in tiny settlements, but charging an exorbitant RS1000 per night.

The following villages have private guest-houses which usually range from Rs150 - Rs350.
Keylong, Sassu, Batal (in local dhaba), Lossar, Hull, Kee, Kibber, Rangrik (looks expensive), Kaza, Dhankar, Tabo, Hurling, Sumdo, Chango, Nako

The local people are very helpful and hospitable and I am sure it would be possible to arrange a home-stay anywhere.

Costs

Local buses charge less than Rs1 per kilometre. For food and drink (including coffee and sodas) I was averaging about Rs200 per day and accommodation was about the same. Less than US$10 per day.

Highlights

* the night skies are filled with stars
* Kee - totally stunning
* Dhankar - as above
* Tabo monastery - a worthy World Heritage site


Times they are achanging

This region of India has only been open to tourists since 1992. Not surprisingly it is fast becoming a very popular destination.

Attracted by the tourists coming through are a number og migrant workers - some from the vicinity, but many from distance, including Kashmiris and Nepalis.

All villages in Spiti now have electricity and satellite dishes and poor wiring contribute to all the villages looking quite trashy.

There are now four hydroelectric projects being proposed in the region which will change the landscape forever. Hydroelectric works in Kinnaur have already trashed some of the most stunning Himalayan villages. Get here soon or it will be ruined.

The Dalai Lama has used funds to renovate old gompas and build new ones.

Quick Facts

2 shaves
16 gompas
2 rolls of toilet paper
1,500 photos taken by The Beast
2 Imodium tablets
About 60 kilometres walking in high altitude terrain
7 private lifts (2 in tractors)
9 bus rides
5 headbangs due to low ceilings
2 falls on ass
2 showers
1 cracked wide angle lens (external wound only!)
1 non-functioning Casio Pro-Trek watch (again!)

Favourite Photos from the Trip

You can see some of the photographs recently taken on this trip by clicking here.

Please note that many of the photos have been cropped, and on occasion I have adjusted the contrast of the composition. No colour saturation or additional retouching has been made. Keeping it pure!

Glossary

AMS - Altitude Mountain Sickness - can take hold over 3,000 metres - take seriously!
arak - strong local fermented alcohol
Bon - the indigenous animist religion in Tibet
Chaam dances - masked "devil" dances performed by monks at auspicious times
chorten - like a Tibetan stupa they often contain relics of high lamas
dhabas - cafeteria or cheap eatery
gompas - Buddhist monasteries and temples
HHDL - His Holiness the Dalai Lama
Kalachakra - a unique spiritual teaching held by the Dalai Lama on auspicious occassions
puja - expression of honour, worship, and/or devotional attention
tangkas - traditional religious paintings
travellist - an Aubreyism - a composite of traveller and tourist