A Day Out in Dahshur, Saqqara and Abu SIr

the stunningly beautiful Red Pyramid

Mention the pyramids and most people think of Giza. However, there are many more and older ones too, to be found around Memphis, the old Egyptian capital.

I have caught up with Felucca friend Elizabeth again and we share a taxi (E£200 organised by Pension Roma) to check out a few pyramids. Our first stop is the three pyramids of Dahshur (E£30/E£15 – adult/student).

The Red Pyramid (well more sandy colour really) is simply beautiful. The entrance fee includes access inside this pyramid. The tunnel is small and long, and with the temperature rising and the oxygen supply disappearing with every step, i soon build up a sweat. Making the interior even more tricky to negotiate is the putrid acidic stench emanating from the inside the inner chambers – predominantly urine. I don’t stay long, and by the time i begin the dissent down the pyramid my legs feel like jelly. Fortunately it’s not just me; Elizabeth is experiencing exactly the same effect.

Elizabeth gives a sense of scale at the Red Pyramid

The “Bent” pyramid is closed to my relief, but looks really interesting. Having attempted at a 54 degree angle, but the sheer mass made it an impossible attempt. The Ancient Egyptians then opted to complete the structure at 43 degrees.




The third pyramid at this site lies far off and is in tatters – the Black pyramid. Photo courtesy of Elizabeth.


Our next stop takes up to Saqqara – about 10kms from Dahshur. First we enter the Imhotep Museum packed with goodies (E£60/E£30) including exquisite carvings and a cool mummy. Imhotep is regarded as the first stone architect.

There are also tombs to explore as well as the Step Pyramid of Zoser – the first attempt at pyramid building. It is under serious renovation and it looks like they intend to over restore this unique site. Such a shame.

Step Pyramid of Zoser - the first ever pyramid

stone tomb guard

hieroglyphics on a column

another illegal tomb shot

Next up is a little known area – Abu Sir. Not in any guidebooks, with its three pyramids in a state of ruin, nonetheless the temple in front of the main pyramid and causeway to the Nile is very impressive.

intricate carvings on an ornate column

just a little colour remains

the best preserved of the three pyramids of Abu Sir

To enter we have to baksheesh the guard for E£50, and Elizabeth kindly distracts the guard long enough for me to scurry around. It also offers an impressive viewing platform for Giza.

We had hoped to head to Giza afterwards, but with winter time closing of 4pm it’s just not possible. It does give us an excuse to visit this site at our leisure.

Alien Intelligence?

I am always up for a good ol’ comspiracy theory. Ever heard the one that it was aliens that taught the Ancient Egyptians how to build the pyramids?

In an ALITD exclusive, i have collated photographic evidence that this was simply not the case.

This is a photograph of the “bent” pyramid in Dahshur. Surely extra-terrestial intelligence would not be capable of such a complete monumental fuck-up?


Whilst i'm on the subject, there are two further myths i need to try to dispel:
1) The pyramids were not built by slaves. The work-force were fed, had access to medical care and were usually top quality artisans who were used outside harvest-time.
2) Live people were buried with the pharaohs so they could lead a good life in the afterworld. Apart from the mummies, no skeletons have been uncovered in the pyramids and tombs.

And there you have it!

More stuff on the pyramids are on their way – you have been warned. Well i am in Egypt after all.