Pemba

Step onto Zanzibar’s “second island” and leave those tourists and their bandwagon of touts behind. The island is quite beautiful and very peaceful. After the tourist insurgence of Zanzibar, i don’t see another mzungu during my stay.

There is some rivalry between the two islands; most of Pemba’s inhabitants are from Omani descent with a far more cosmopolitan population on Unguja. The friendly locals on Pemba laugh at the hecticness of Zanzibar and boasts a crime-free island, although on my journey out of the island i have my mobile and flashlight snatched out of my bag.

friendly locals request a family and friend portrait

Although it lacks much of the history of Unguja and the lavish architecture, this hilly island is verdant with all kinds of fruit and vegetable crops growing in the fields.

Nonetheless, there does seem a suspicious uniformity on accommodation prices as well as prices charged for meals.

Arriving into Mkoani late at night i turn left outside the port and head up the hill to Panorama Beach Lodge (tel no. 024256166). It is spanking new with bungalows at US$35+ per room, but i take a dorm bed at US$20 all including a hearty breakfast. It is shiny and clean and i have it all to myself. The food is also good with meals costing Tsh10,000. It is next door to the Jondeni Guesthouse with identical prices for rooms and food.

view from Panorama Beach Lodge

Boats can be rented for US$20+ to visit neighbouring islands, and there is little else to do as the village is somewhat dull.

Moslem school-girls on the way home

I move through the island heading north taking a brief stopover in Chake- Chake which is the main hub for the island. It is the nearest town to the internal airport and has a busy market place and a couple of ATMS. Regular dala-dalas run regularly throughout the day and cost Tsh1,000.

Masha, a friend from Stone Town has recommended me to Verani Beach Resort on the North Coast. From Chake - Chake open-sided dala-dalas leave when full to Konde in the northern tip of Pemba. It costs Tsh1,500 and takes about two hours.

The journey onwards is somewhat tricky. I end up hitching a ride with a local police officer with a Vespa for the 10km journey. Motorbikes seem to charge a standard Tsh15,000 whilst a car/taxi/truck/dala-dala for Tsh20,000. The journey is beautiful and goes through a nearby National Park with monkeys chasing through the vines of this primary rainforest.

Verani Beach resort is a locally owned and run guest house. It is somewhat basic with no electricity. Bungalows are US$45 including breakfast, but camping is also available. Meals can be ordered in advance for Tsh10,000.

beach-hut at Verani's

The waters sparkle along the beachfront which is a combination of rocks and the fine white sand.

the beach at Verani's

There are several dive outfits on the island that can also run snorkelling trips, but i am informed that the dive-sites are challenging and not for the unpractised recreational divers like myself.

The port town of Wete is somewhat ramshackle. There are at least two guest houses here including Sharouk and Umbrella.

If prices were cheaper i would have happily extended my stay, but the island seem to have priced themselves out from the long-term budget traveller.

Out and About in Pemba

Sceptical that i will be on-line whilst hanging out in the Zanzibar Archipelago.

Hope to be back soon - watch this space.

Slow Boat to Pemba

Pemba is the “other" island of Zanzibar and lies some 50kms to the north of Unguja.

Fast ferries run every day from Zanzibar but will cost over US$40. The local slow-boat is US$21/US$26/US31 for basic/reserved seat/ 4 birth cabin. Payment must be made in US dollars. It departs every day except Mondays at 6pm and arrives in the following morning at 10am.

Like it’s counterpart in Dar Es Salaam, the port is hassly and touts persistently step in your way. Check out the boat tickets for yourself and save yourself a few extra bucks.

Ying jokes that i am a tight-ass, but i defend myself. Long term travelling requires budget measures, especially when a wage-check hasn’t arrived for some 30 months.

I thought i’d got yet another bargain by taking the overnight slow-boat to Pemba, but it kinda backfires.

I board the boat at 6pm with a 9pm departure scheduled. By 9.30 we are still in Zanzibar dock, but the lights go out. As indeed does the air-con in the “Tourist Cabin” of which I am the only tourist. We’re soon sweating like hyperactive pigs without deodorant.

By 1am we’re still in dock, but the electricity returns. At about 2am, panic breaks out. Women are crying and the babies and luggage are passed through the port-holes – i am told the boat is sinking. I wait for the crowds to subside before taking my bags up the stairs and off the boat. There is nothing else for it, but to head back for another night at Hotel Marine.

Returning next morning we are invited back onto the boat at 8am, but don’t actually set sail until midday. Fortunately there are two canteens on the boat where snacks and drinks are available, including a free pilau rice meal.


Unfortunately the toilets which clearly haven’t been cleaned since the previous day and the smell emanating from the Gents is completely shocking.

The boat docks by 8pm and i am delighted to flee. Although only half the price of the fast ferries, i kinda regret my choice in vessel.

POSTSCRIPT: This ship was later to sink in September 2011 due to over-loading. It resulted in the drowning of 197 passengers making it the worst maritime disaster in the islands documented history.

From Pangani to Pemba

Hassim orders us a pick-up from the Backpackers at 4.50am. It is a lorry crammed full of people and dried fish in the back, but the Driver’s Mate has reserved us a place in the cab for an additional Mtc50. I can’t face the crowds or the smell. The truck takes people to Marconia, a transport hub. I take the already waiting truck for Pemba for a five hour journey costing another Mtc150.

Pemba and Wimbi

Pemba is a quite pleasant town with a few market areas and a couple of decent eating and drinking options. Flor d’ Avinida offers espresso coffee, acceptable donuts, snacks and meals. For lunch i opt for a Hambeurga Completo at Mtc120 at Pemba Take Away and although the burger itself is only average it is served up with decent fries and salad. I eat an excellent and tender beef served with crispy fries and side salad for Mtc200 at Peroni’s.

The comfortable and centrally located Hotel Cabo Delgado has single rooms from Mtc550. It also has the advantage of being adjacent from the departure point for Quisanga as the entry point for the Quirimbas National Park and Archipelago.

Wimbi is some 5kms from the centre of Pemba and offers a very pleasant stretch of white sand beach with some upmarket hotels. Cheaper alternatives include Pemba Bay bush backpacker and Dive Centre, Pieter’s Place and Russel’s Place where i have opted to stay. It is a Mtc200-250 taxi ride from central Pemba. I take a single in a 6 bed dorm for Mtc400 and is quiet spot if a little far out for those wanting to take up diving options or be closer to Pemba. Fortunately it is quite self-contained with a good restaurant and free wifi.

Diving opportunities are available from both Pemba Dive centre and C I divers which Duncan recommends having undertaken his open water cert from here.

The area is particularly popular with South Africans buying up property, and numerous expensive yachts anchor in the bay.

The outrageously and somewhat tacky Palace Hotel offers decent homemade hamburgers at reasonable prices.

Strangely Tuk Tuks also feature as one of the transport options in both Pemba and Wimbi.

From Nampula to Pemba

A pattern has emerged of waking up between 3am - 5am to take chapas or buses onwards to further destinations.

Having been personally escorted by C-C from Isla to Nampula, However whilst CC knows the city well it becomes a disadvantage having him at my side. I am stopped twice by two different police officers who ask to see my passport, and although they take everything o be in order, the first asks for Mtc100, then Mtc50 and then Mtc20, whilst the second asks money for a coke – about Mtc20.


It is a return to a marginally better room at Brasilia - Room 11 has a flushing toilet. C-C insists on taking me to friends for dinner of salad, bread and a local tapioca dish.

I don’t even bother changing for bed and just sleep in my jeans and Watford football shirt.

It’s a 3am bus out of Nampula for Pemba on a reasonable bus which charges Mtc350 + Mtc50 for the rucksack. The bus doesn’t head off o 4am which is probably just as well iam stopped for a third time – this time by two officers. This time they are shaking their head and i become aware for the first time that there really is something wrong with my visa. Whilst the dates valid show 2 months as asked back in Swaziland, it transpires that in fact i am only entitled to stay in Mozambique for 30 days – i am almost a week over that already!.

I understand their Portuguesa although they insist CC to translate. I tell them i am very sorry, i had not realised and either had two previous officers who had cornered me earlier. I suggest i take the bus to Pemba which is waiting patiently. They muster, shake their head and say this is a problem and re-examine my passport. I first offer Mtc50 explaining i am just a student, but they are not having it. This is a “Big Problem” and it certainly feels it with the bus almost full and my bag already packed in the cargo-hold,

After another 10 minutes i offer Mtc100 which is also rejected and i reluctantly part with Mtc150 a further 10 minutes later. Fortunately the bus has not just been waiting for me as a few other waifs and strays emerge out of the darkness.

The bus takes a fraction over 6 hours, stopping off every 100 yards to personally deliver passengers as the town approaches.