Senga Bay

Sunday washing on Senga Beach

Senga Bay is yet another popular spot further south from Nkarta Bay on Lake Malawi. Here there is a long strip of sandy beach, which boasts its own local fishing communities as well as tourist lodges. Accommodation prices seem to be somewhat higher here than in Nkarta Bay and food equally overpriced.

Fortunately there is now a Standard Bank ATM on the main road South.

Activities are pretty much the same also, with canoe and kayaking popular, coastal walks, bird safaris, snorkelling and diving. There is also a Hippo pool to explore further north of Safari Beach Lodge and Grant, a young South African has just opened “The Hippo Gazebo” with a couple of chalets overlooking one of the pools. The hippos emerge late evening, but beware of the flies and fire ants.

not sure how safe this is with hippos and crocs around

kingfisher near hippo pools

There is also Lizard Island some 2kms offshore where the birdlife is immense and giant lizards growing up to some 2 metres in length.

Lizard Island from Senga Bay

Accommodation: Lil Fire recommends the Safari Beach Lodge so i had there. It looks very nice but at US$100 bed and breakfast far more than i ever pay. Nonetheless i haven’t been able to access the Net via my dongle, and have plenty of stuff to upload and messages to check , so with the promise of free wifi i decide it might be worth a splurge for the night. They also have hot water and a swimming pool. A mix of rooms and gazebos i opt for a gazebo on a quiet rocky outcrop. Monkeys and lizards abound.

Whilst able to enjoy a chicken pasta in white wine sauce, nobody informs me that with so few guests they close the restaurant and bar by 8pm. I am left both hungry and thirsty and completely unable to access their wifi. Fortunately, one of the security guards comes up and offers to buy me dinner from a neighbouring resort hotel and i for K2000 procure a chicken and fries and coca cola dinner. The poorest value for money and poorly managed hotel i have come across in Africa in five months.

It is a pleasure to head across to Wamwai Beach Lodge. Run by a caring South African couple Leo and Ingrid. They also boast free wifi, but room rates far more affordable. Dorms, rooms (unattached), rooms (attached bathroom) are US10/25/40 accordingly. Day excursions, diving and boats to Cape Maclear can also be arranged. This dynamic duo have also been working on community projects. Protection of the nearby marine park has started and ideas for a community centre and activities for the local youth are in progress. Check out their website www.wamwai.com

Cold Running gets high recommendations but is currently full.

another African karate kid