An Eye and a Lens - Jebel Qattar

I spend two nights at a Bedouin camp next to a unique rock formation known as Jebel Qattarin the desert of Wadi Rum. This series of photographs were taken throughout the day and night showing interesting colour changes and shadows across its mighty face.

taken at sunrise

late morning

late afternoon

moonlit at night

Wadi Rum

Jebel Qattar

This desert made its name as the main location for the classic movie, Lawrence of Arabia. Indeed whilst T.E. Lawrence did pass through (described by him as “vast and echoing”), he spent little time here, although his seminal work, “Seven Pillars of Wisdom” was taken from the rock formation of, now just outside the Visitors’ Centre about 7kms outside Rum Village.

the Seven Pillars

Lawrence Springs two kilometres outside the village is also a point of interest where The Man Himself watered both himself and his camel. The views are good although it is more of a trough than a pool.

historic trough

Rum is a Bedouin settlement in the desert, with superb and interesting granite and sandstone rock formations, some as high as 1700 metres, that change colours throughout the day. Wadi Rum is now very much part of the tourist trail in Jordan, most especially package tourists, and large tourist coaches regularly glide in and out of town with elderly camera-toting Europeans and Americans. Fortunately most don’t stay long, usually as a day trip out of Aqaba or those passing through between Aqaba and Petra to the north.

plenty of interesting rock formations - this one just outside the village

This desert is now a protected area of 720 square kilometres with small populations of Syrian wolf, striped hyena and Nubian ibex. Early in 2002, a small herd of Arabian Oryx were returned to the area. Despite my best efforts, all i can see are a few birds, camels, goats, some beetles and a small scorpion between the rocks. This time of year there are several beautiful desert flowers that survive in this harsh environment.

known locally as the tartooth plant, it grows in groups of three on areas fertilised by human poop

There are several other points of interest around including the ruins of a 1BC Nabataean Temple, two rock bridges and Rakhabat and Makaharas canyons. More affluent tourists hire a 4x4 and guide or camels are also for rent. These can be arranged both at the Visitors’ Centre and Rum Village. I’m happy just to spend a few days in the desert walking around with The Beast. A new friend, Suliman, a local Bedouin is based in the village and can guide and drive you around the sites. He can be reached by his cell-phone +962 – (0)776 473 437

All transport passes through the Visitors’ Centre and there is an entrance fee of JD5/JD1 for Adults/Students.

My first two days are spent at the Bedouin camp of Mohammed Mutlak camp www.wadirum-jo.com about 12 kms outside Rum village prettily set beneath the impressive rock formation known as Jebel Qattar. Beds in small tents covered with goat hair blankets with shared toilets and showers cost JD30 half board. The food is excellent with large breakfasts and decent suppers often cooked in a zarb – a ground oven. Whilst there are copious amounts of tea flavoured with the ubiquitous sage, if like myself, you don’t “do” tea, bring your own drinks. There is no electricity on site. If you call them in advance, they can arrange a free pick-up from the Resthouse in Rum village.

just outide my campsite

typical Bedouin camp

The owner of the camp is a keen camel racer. These days this is very much a high tech sport. There is a remote controlled dummy and whipper and instructions can be radioed through to the camel. A decent camel can cover 4kms in six and a half minutes.

late afternoon light

sunset over the desert

I opt to spend a third night in the desert but decide to experience a bit of village life. The Resthouse offers tent accommodation for JD3, or bring your own tent and you can camp for JD1 and use their bathroom facilities. The Resthouse is the first building as you enter the village and there is a Tourist Police booth in the car park.They do an excellent buffet lunch for JD10 as well as breakfast. The adjacent Gardens of Babylon can offer food for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The small village is quite pretty, with several houses having tents and/or camels in their back yards. There are a few grocery stores and an Internet cafe which seems permanently closed.

There is an interesting handicrafts shop in the centre as part of the Burda Womens’ Co-operative run with the assistance of US Aid to help promote a variety of traditional handicrafts including soaps, camel saddles, baskets, bags, ceramics, jewelry and carpets.

decorate your camel

a camel in front of Jebel Umm al-Ishrin

There is only one daily bus from Aqaba (JD3) and taking just over an hour. It departs the central bus stand at 1pm but it is highly recommended to get there early.

The bus for Petra (Wadi Musa) departs at 8.30am from outside the Resthouse.

The Bus from Aqaba to Wadi Rum

approaching Wadi Rum village

Armed with a copy of T.E. Lawrence's "Seven Pillars of Wisdom" and a cool black jalabiya (i have finally gone local), i'm ready to hit the deserts of South Jordan.

There is only one bus per day that departs from the central bus stand at 1pm. I get an interesting insight to local life from two expats living Wadi Rum.

The first is a big-boned young American from Chicago. She married a local Bedouin man two years ago and has been living there ever since. Her Christian parents are from Arkansas and have virtually disowned her for her life-choice. I ask her if she likes her new life, but the best she can offer is “it’s different”. She now cooks and cleans at her husband’s Bedouin campsite.

The second woman is also American born (New York), but has lived abroad most of her life. She is now in her late seventies and has spent the last fourteen years in Wadi Rum. She is a “Truth – Seeker” collecting Biblical evidence on both Abraham and Moses. She is convinced that evidence has been hidden by the Jordanian authorities for “political reasons” and has had interest from a German TV station to make a documentary on her findings next year. She asserts that Gadaffi is right – the US government has brought the insurgents in Libya and that they are working in partnership with Al-Qaeda.

The bus stops off at the Visitors’ Centre just out of Rum Village do i can pay the entrance fee – adults/students for JD5/JD1.

Both these characters make for an interesting hour and fifteen minutes.