An Eye and a Lens - Whale Sharks

Following my recent encounter with the whale shark, i am pleased that at least i got some sufficient results with my Boots disposable underwater camera. There is a few more on the original post which you can see by clicking here.

From Tofo to Vilankulos

Travel in Mozambique is currently very slow. Many of the main routes are in a state of redevelopment at the moment are only currently sealed in parts.

The journey from Tofo is fairly straightforward. Take the local bus (chapas) that run regularly to Inhumbane (45 minutes Mtc20) Walk some kilometer or so to the ferry boat for Maxixe (pronounced Maksheesh) for a 40 minute trip (Mtc10). From the ferry terminal it is about another kilometre and get the chapas for Vilankulos. I am sure I am charged too much for this leg – some Mtc300 but i am given the more comfortable front seat. With current road conditions it takes some 5 hours to cover the 260kms.

Vilankulo is another tropical paradise – somewhat larger than Tofo. The luxury resorts are all on the nearby Bazaruto archipelago charging in excess of US$150, per night. Us mere backpacking mortals make to with the mainland town which has a more appropriate mix between travellists and locals. Visitors are requested to be careful on the quiter parts of the huge beach and don’t flash expensive cameras around.

A number of budget accommodation is available in Vilankulos. I am staying at the Baobab backbackers (dorm beds Mtc256) whilst a few hundred metres up the coast is the Zombie Cucumber which is just a little more expensive.

There are a few dive outfits, including Odysea, the one on-site at Baobab offering two dives for Mtc4200. Dhow cruises are popular around the archipelago including nearby Two Mile and Five Mile reefs. Grant told me not to pay more than Mtc1400 for the day including snorkel equipment water and lunch, but as yet the cheapest I can find is Mtc1700. I continue to investigate.

Tofo and Tofino

view from Bamboozi's

For beach lovers, both Tofo and Tofino is a must in Mozambique.

The small ramshackle village has plenty of clothes vendors but not many amenities. There is no supermarkets and the nearest ATM is at the service station some 12kms away. The coastal walks either north or south are beautiful.

Unquestionably, Tofo offers incomparable ocean safaris to see the Big Dive 5 – humpback whale, dolphin, sea turtle, giant manta ray and whale shark. Like any safari there are no guarantees but even if you get to swim with any of these is a truly immense experience.

Diving is also offered beginning around Mtc1500 for one site from at least 4 different dive operators.

another Tofo sunset

Places to Stay

Tofo

I have been based at Fatima’s for my five night visit to the area. Ensuite chalets are MTC1000 with a 5th night thrown in free. It is in a central position right on the beach with hammocks and deck chairs scattered and the food is okay too. However it is a bit of a party place with music pumping often into the early hours. A quieter and slightly cheaper option is Bamboozi further north although a couple of kilometres out of town.

Bamboozi - a quieter option in Tofo

Tofino

The popular and attractive Turtle Cove is peaceful some 10 minutes walk from the beach. Surfers prefer this area and there is a dive master and yoga instruction available. (Tel No. 827194848)

Casa John looks beautiful for a self catering option. (Tel SA 27 - 11827 5745/6/7)

Check out Inno's Chill-Out Bar and Lounge owned by ambitious and lovely Mozambican Jenna.

Places To Eat in Tofo

Dino’s Beach Bar – open 10am to late at least 6 days a week (closed Wednesdays in low season) is my favourite breakfast spot. A cheese omelette, garlic bread and a double espresso costs MTC150 and their pizzas from MTC140 are quite good too.

The Bread Shack – this cheap and cheerful eatery serves up a small selection of fast food choices. The bunny chow is recommended as a good filler. (MTC80).

Fatimas has cheapish food with pancakes, omlettes, chicken and fish available at reasonable prices.

The food is quite good but expensive at Casa Barry whose fish and chips cost Mtc480 and imported 300g steak at a whopping MTC840.

The Black and White restaurant in the centre of the village is good value at Mtc120 for either half chicken and chips/rice or fish and chips/rice.

The best restaurant in town is the French/Mozambiquan Casa di Comer with mains ranging from Mtc260 for spagetti bolognaise to Mtc400 for their lamb chops.


a log on the beach

Annoyances
Young children can be persistent in their attempts to sell necklaces and bracelets.

There is still no ATM in the village. The nearest one is found at the service station towards Inhumbane.

surrounding countryside

An Eye and a Lens - Boats on Tofo Beach

In Search of the Whale Shark

five boats launch in search of whale shark

I have done trips both to the Philippines and Thailand in the 1990s following migratory paths specifically to see whale sharks, but they have remained elusive to me. Thus when Bubba notified me to the whale shark presence all year round in Tofo, southern Mozambique I was incredulous. How is this possible?

I attend a lecture given by a New Zealand born marine biologist Dr. Simon Davies (Casa Barry 6pm every Wednesday – MTC100) who has been resident here since 2005 who explains that zooplankton gets caught up in upsurges in the smallish natural harbor creating feeding frenzies for predominantly juvenile males averaging between 6 – 8 metres long. Full grown whale sharks grow up to 20 metres can live to about 100 years old. Some 485 individuals have been identified off-shore using digital tracking of photos taken of the individuals’ pectoral fins. There is a website devoted to whale shark research and conservation at www.whaleshark.org including a database of individuals.

Not much is known about these incredible shark species. Most spotting globally consist of more than 80% male and only one pregnant female as ever been examined – well a dead one has ever been properly examined. Some 300 babies were found inside her measuring some 60 - 70cms long in perfect replica of the adult.

There are at least two Whale Shark / Ocean Safaris operating out of Tofo and i opt for Tofo Dives. It departs every day between 11am - 1pm and currently costs MTC1000.

It is crowded the day i go, with 3 boats going out from Tofo Dives alone. Each group is called in turn to watch an information film put together by Dr. Davies about the dos and don’ts when swimming with the whale shark – entering the water quietly and no touching which will cause the whale shark to dive. Departures are staggered over a fifteen minute period, although seem to quickly catch up with each other on the somewhat choppy waters. There are clearly certain parts off the coastline which are preferred.

The first group out of shore jump into the water to experience some dolphins, but by the time our boat joins them the dolphins quickly move on. It takes some 40 minutes to get our first whale shark spotting. As soon as one boat strikes gold others quickly descend. The skipper attempts to get in front of the whale sharks swimming path by dropping off snorkelers some 30 metres in front of it.

By the time i am in the water all i can make out is a vast vanishing shadow in the water, and despite my heartiest efforts I get no closer. Disappointed i try to locate which boat i came on before ungracefully re-boarding as we continue our search. After a further 20 minutes i am beginning to feel it’s not going to be my day when our guide gets another whale shark sighting. This time i’m the 2nd into the water and i see it emerging slowly in front of me from the shadows of the deep blue ocean. To me it looks completely huge as i try to guestimate its size, Surely it must be close to 8 metres! I stare completely and utterly gob-smacked as i try to capture it’s image on my 2nd and last disposable underwater camera - the first being used up in Gansbaii, South Africa for cage diving with the Great Whites! It is only after it lazily swims past me that i react, and to try and swim alongside it. It looks like it is just clowly and casually gliding along, but no matter how I pump my fins, and indeed my arms, there is not a chance that i can get anywhere near it. I eventually get back into the boat completely exhausted but marveled by what I have just seen. The skipper says shame it was such a small one – some 4 metres long. So much for my guestimates.

When we have picked up all 9 passengers from our boat we head back down the coast line for a further 15 minutes and then we notice a boat in front who has made another spotting. This one is clearly bigger than before - some 7 – 8 metres long. Again I am in awe of this incredible sized shark gracefully gliding through the water. This one is travelling much slower and I swim just above it for some 5 minutes. It’s dorsal fin is just inches from my body and despite the instructional video i lazily stroke my hand along its length. It feels like it is - smooth cartilage. It's like swimming with a cathedral.

By the time the encounter has ended, i realise just how far i have swum and the boat is miles away. By the time i get back on board, I am at a point of exhaustion. 10 minutes later a fourth whale shark is spotted, but I have already burned through all my energy reserves and I am unable to move. I am now cold and shivering – most of the other passengers sensibly have wetsuits.

There are also dolphins and manta rays to be spotted, and even humpback whales to be seen at this time of year. Although we see none of these, no-one leaves disappointed. It has been an incredible and unforgettable encounter.

I think i got at least a few half-decent shots, but am unlikely to see the results until my next major city – in all likelihood 2 - 3 months up the road in Dar E Salam, Tanzania. Like myself we’ll just have to be patient and wait to see what came out.

Editor's Addition: These were developed in Beira. Pretty crap really, but still a treasured moment indeed!

Tofo

sunset at Tofo

Some 350kms north of Maputo , Tofo has been a popular haunt for South African backpackers for many years offering a laid-back partyesque atmosphere most especially at Fatima’s Nest backpackers.

For convenience sake i take the tourist shuttle departing Fatima’s Backpackers at 5.30am and costing Mtc600. Without a trailer or roof-rack bags are squished in too. Unbelievably i am in prime position next to the driver, but it is still a long 9 hour journey as even the main highway isn’t sealed all the way with huge swathes of compacted sand in between potholed tarmac.

along Tofo Beach

I take up the offer of 10% off by staying for 5 days in the luxury of an ensuite bungalow perched in the heart of the crescent shaped bay. Unfortunately the party rages on till late into the early hours and I regret not checking into the much quieter resort of Bamboozle or Turtle Cove on neighbouring Tofolina beach.

Fatima's Nest