Bahir Dar

 

sunset over Lake Tana

On first viewing Bahir Dar has an almost southern France feel to it – a bit like Nice with wide streets with parallel palm trees. Hell – it’s almost like Nice. Add macchiato and a lake rather than the French Riviera. It is the Provincial Capital after all Lonely Planet – Africa insists it’s a great place to “spend some days”.

However, beyond the couple of wide boulevards, the small city is not very clean and not very interesting. I am told not to carry my camera around in the outskirts where my rather dodgy guest house is centred.

The highlight of the visit to Bahir Dar is to the 16th and 17th century monasteries. They lie on the islands of Lake Tana and are enchanting.

 

 

the angel of Death on an external wall

There are 20 altogether, but it must be somewhat tedious to do all. And expensive too! Each one costs Birr50 to enter, Some parts are not open to foreigners and some not open to women. I opt for three of them on my 3+ hours private boat trip costing US$12. All boast museums some of which in only the lowest forms. Literally, someone who speaks no English holds a book or relic up to the visitor.

 

relic in one of the "museums"

It is possible to find others to tour with, thus reducing costs, but i can’t find anyone who wants to join me at 7am. Too early apparently!

The lighting is soft and the monks gliding around look immense, but a bit intimidating just to stick The Beast in their face – even though i have paid substantial money. Video cameras will cost a further Birr50.

 

monastery jetty

There are some very unsavoury people in and around town trying everything to part you with your money. I am warned from openly carrying my camera and my overpriced hotel Birr150 at Anna Side Recreation is in a particularly dodgy area of town. I know several people that have raved about this place, and the lakeside monasteries are superb and worth a visit in itself, but i can’t say i like Bahir Dar. I’m very happy to move on up north.

 

transporting papyrus on Lake Tana

Skybus - from Addis to Bahir Dar

Sky Bus are meant to be the creme de la crème of bus transport around Ethiopia. Ethiopia is big, and those with money and not much time would be better spent getting internal flights if you really want to see all that Ethiopia has to offer.

There are six Sky Buses six days a week from Addis to Bahir Dar . Government buses take up to a day an half to make the journey, but with a 6am departure from Addis we make the journey in 10 hours. Minibuses can make the journey pending a) crashes b) flat tyres and other mechanical failures, in considerably less time.

The journey goes through some startling beautiful scenery with rich agricultural fields, superb valleys and dramatic canyons. The road is fully sealed but does have to negotiate some sharp bends – no surprises to know that minibus crashes are rife and invariably high mortality of the passengers. The safety record of Sky Bus is one of the best in the country in a country where driving is erratic at best – indeed similar to two of its southerly neighbours Kenya and Uganda.

The current fare is Birr303 including tax.