Mozambique was part of the “civilized” chain of kingdoms from the trade routes between Persia, Arabia and India as early as the 9th century following monsoon winds trading in slaves, ivory, gold and spices, whilst much of Europe were still very much in the Dark Ages.
The Portuguese came sailing in around the 15th century, building forts to protect their trade interests from the English and the Dutch.
Real resistance didn’t come until 1962 when the Frelimo movement was established under Eduardo Mondlane who was subsequently assassinated in 1969. Independence was only proclaimed on 25th June 1975.
In true Portuguese style (see also East Timor, Angola, et. Al.), they pulled out virtually overnight, sabotaging vehicles, pouring cement into wells, etc. and leaving behind complete chaos with few skilled people and next to no infrastructure.
Mozambique’s communist government through itself into a policy of radical social change including mass literacy projects and health care programmes. However in 1983 Mozambique was virtually bankrupt and civil war brewed for almost two decades. Since 2005 things are more settled and Mozambique is seen as one of Africa’s success stories with unprecedented peace and stability.
Nonetheless, annual capita income is about US$300, HIV/AIDS infection is at 16% and malaria also takes heavy tolls.
About 35% of Mozambicans are Christian, 25 – 30% are Muslim and the remainder follow traditional animist practices. They have a Worldwide reputation ofbeing quality dancers, movers and shakers which I have been reliably informed can be witnessed first hand at both cultural dances to Maputo’s nightclubs.
Lonely Planet notes in its Dangers and Annoyances section on Mozambique of incidence of robbing and muggings, landmines off the beaten track and the necessity for travellists to carry their passport or a certified copy around with them at all times.
There is a very different feel to Mozambique than its neighbouring Southern African countries. Portuguese colonialisation was clearly been imbedded. Whilst I speak and understand no Portuguese, my time in Portugal, Macao and Brazil serves me in good stead for i recognise and read many of the important words with its similarities to Spanish. Shame it sounds so unfamiliar to my ears.
Prices have clearly come down in this part of Southern Africa too. A packet of cigarettes is just Mtc30 – a third of the price of Swaziland, South Africa and Namibia, being just one example.
Maputo is the capital city of Mozambique, has a population of about 1.4 million people and is a pleasant and quite attractive port city with a distinctly Mediterranean feel to it. Indeed Lonely Planet seems to wax lyrical about it describing it as “one of Africa’s most attractive capital cities”.
the waterfront in MaputoMy arrival into Maputo on Sunday starts somewhat ominously. i changed up the last of my Swazi money at the border, but thought it wise to stock up with cash, for where i am heading to has no ATMs in town. On a brief orientation and reconnaissance i pass by Barclays bank with adjacent ATM on Ave Julho 24th and decide to go for it. During the 80s when I was a political activist I boycotted them for their pro-active support in supporting the Apartheid regime in South Africa. So this is a bit of a Barclays first for me!
It takes my visa card and asks me to press out my pin, which I do and then…..nothing, nothing at all. I try press confirm again, and then again, before pressing cancel. Still nothing. I press cancel again, somewhat more frenetically. And again, this time more frantically. O half think of giving it a kick, it sometimes worked for my old television, but I resist the urge. Mozambicans regularly use the word “paciencia” (patience) – a highly regarded attribute in this country. I wait 10 minutes, swear like a swindled pimp and walk away knowing my first morning in the city is going to be spent at Barclays Bank begging and pleading for my visa card to be returned to me.
My other “fixings” i need to do is to continue my so far fruitless negotiations with South African Airlines over repaying me for my “return” ticket, sort out a SIM card and get a certified copy of my passport – all at the earliest convenience if i am to hit those coastal beaches with my snorkel and prescription mask.
It is not shaping up too good at the moment - It is not all fun on the road. Guardian Angel! Where are you at the moment? I need you here now!
t-shirt vendor on the promenadeThe Base Backpackers in Maputo is a pretty good spot, although booking in advance is highly recommended due to its popularity. There is also a Fatima’s Backpackers, which is another popular Maputo accommodation alternative a little to the North on Ave. Mao Tse Tung .
The Municipal Market is raved about in Lonely Planet, but maybe it is because I have been spoiled with more impressive markets both in Asia and South America, but i find it to be so-so.
I have been warned of danger on some streets, including The Caracol and between the front of Frederick Engels Street and Ave. J, Nyerere.
Cathedral of Nossa Senhora da Conciecao in the city centreA couple of eateries I can personally recommend is Restaurant 1908 – an old colonial style place on Ave. Salvador Alliende which does excellent roast beef sandwiches and the Mixed Grill on the same road at the junction of Avr. 24 de Julho. It should be noted that i don't "do" seafood, but giant prawns are a famous local delicacy. The Great Bubba himself recomends heading to the fish market and getting them to cook up on sight.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteNice photography!!!
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