One of the most beautiful wildernesses in England, the area had a long history of mining and ship-building. The evil Margaret Thatcher (and I mean evil) devastated the mining industry in the nineteen eighties and the docks receded in tandem.
Although there are a few signs of some economic recovery, including a co-op in every small village, wind – turbines scattered across the hills and a couple of new developments being built (although sit empty), the devastation that hit this friendly and witty community is all too evident.
I need to pick up some Benny Hedgehogs and some real coffee, so we stop at one of the co-op grocery stores. It´s just before 5pm and a bleary-eyed elderly drunk rolls up to me by the counter.
“Me? I´m drunk!!!” he shouts in my ear as he stumbles through the aisle carrying a six pack of extra strong. There is nothing else to do, but to congratulate him. The young cashier persistently asks him politely to join the queue behind the line. Outside the supermarket I note a several other male villagers in the square drinking lager or cider. I guess it´s Friday, but it does seem a tad early.
Jen has lived in the village of Stanley Crooke in a small terraced house for about 15 years. The views from her back windows are superb. Indeed i´ve asked her for first refusal on the place, although I don´t think she takes me seriously.
View from Back
The surrounding villages include Billy Tow, Sunniside, Wearside and Stanhope each offering their own unique rural charm. The surrounding countryside is both beautiful and desolate, making up part of the Pennine Way.
Jen is a country ranger for Durham County Council – not dissimilar to Ranger Smith, the park ranger in Yogi Bear. My arrival ties in with a field trip to one of her sites for a butterfly census. It´s great if not very scientific. We recognise many, but not all the species. The population looks healthy and there is plenty of diversity – part of Jen´s remit.
We spend the first full day zooming through the countryside in the rain. Jen is famed for very fast driving down small country lanes. We head up to Alston, the highest market town in England to connect with the steam train on the South Tynedale- Isak, Jen´s two and a half year old, is a transport nut and enjoys the short return journey to Kirkhaugh. Not too dissimilar to my recent Darjeeling experience - wet and small guage steamy!
The train in action can be viewed here.
Some running commentary and whistle can be viewed here.
After another delicious dinner, Rich, Jen´s partner, offers me a brief tour to visit two local traditional pubs. I ask Rich to order for he possesses a strong Northern (although not local) accent. Rich is an environmental health and food inspector which provided a bit of confrontation in another favourite.
The first is okay; it´s busy, old looking and a crowd of regulars are lined up at the bar. The second is the real deal – wooden floorboards, dominoes in a corner, a coal fire burning and elderly locals who gaze at the arrival of strangers.
Whilst supping a succulent half Golden Sheep top, the landlord brings out late night shepherd´s pie and egg sandwiches – a Friday hand-out to the locals. A very nice touch!
Rich explains the nature of his work and the ins and outs of his work. He says he would have to be “completely mind-fucked” to ever buy a doner kebab. Tiny meat content, obscenely high fat content, vast quantities of preservatives and unhygienic methods of preparation. He is also not very encouraging about Chinese take-aways, but fortunately they are cooked in white-hot woks which pretty much kills everything off. Nothing he tells me can deter my love for my local Chinese restaurant whilst in UK. After four halfs it is time to leave. We stagger back through the dark country lanes in the rain and the wind that never dies.
My three hosts offer to drive me up the surrounding coastlines. It´s still raining as we head of up to Newbiggin, stopping at the delightful Morpeth for coffee and a cheese shop.
The British artist and sculptor, Sean Henry has produced a huge statue Couples which sits in the middle of the cove. An amazing structure, it manages to dominate the entire town. St Bartholemew´s church dominates the northern end of the sandy beach, part of which dates from the 13th century. We enjoy a fish and chip lunch and the sun finally breaks out. After a few more photos, we head on down the coast-line through Whitley Bay to Tynemouth with it´s old priory and dramatic lighthouse.
Couples by Sean Henry
Lighthouse at Tynemouth
A few more snaps can be viewed by clicking here.
My last night in the North East was a visit to the culmination of this annual event which offer workshops in traditional Irish music. Lots were on offer including an excellent rendition from a button accordian – a wonderful medieval sound, flute and ensembles at a concert at the modernist Gala theatre in the beautiful city of Durham.
I´ve tried to put on a few video clips for your perusal.
Click here to listen to the button accordian.
For a guitar and whistle duet click here.
For the complete ensemble, click here.
Dr Gloves spent his undergrad. years here about 25 years ago, and the place has changed little, retaining is character and charm, all to rare in British cities.
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