A Big Cat Experience

feeding time for cheetah

So with my last full day in Namibia, John and i splurge on a visit to Amani Lodge some 20kms south west of Windhoek, found off C26.

Chameleon Backpackers run tours here every afternoon (including champagne) for N$1025 per person. This seems really expensive as the cost from Amani is still expensive, but at N$440, much reduced. John and i will share a taxi ride, so we are reduce the costs dramatically.

Known as “The Big Cat Experience” it provides an opportunity to get up and personal with cheetah, lion and leopard.


The location is superb offering fine views over both Windhoek and the surrounding terrain. The tour begins at 2.30pm sharp, and Peter, our young guide for the day certainly knows his stuff.

All three of these big cats have their own large enclosure. Our first stop is a group of five cheetahs. The six travellists stand in a small wooden enclosure whilst Peter throws out chunks of meet just metres form where we stand. Sure enough, within moments, the cheetah come hungrily through the scrubland and pretty much ignore the presence of us humans and devour the offering.

tucking into a hunk of snack

Next up is a visit to the solitary leopard. We are warned he is very shy and hasn’t been seen for several days. We catch the fleetest of glimpses and swiftly disappears despite Peter’s meat temptations and leopard calls.

Our final stop is to visit the two lions. These resplendent beasts pay little attention to us as more meat is dispatched. The male takes the lion share before saving a few scraps for the female.

one hungry male

the female lioness

Come sunset and we return to the lodge for champagne and are given a glimpse of two more cheetah, one a four month old wild and very frisky cub and a large female known as the Teddy Bear – a very much domesticated cat indeed.

Windhoek

the Atlas Building in the city centre

Some 240,000 people live in the capital situated in the Central Highlands at an altitude of 1660m. This remains the main commercial hub of the country, and, with its heavily German colonial past, it is somewhat staid and orderly. The mixed population of the city reflects Namibia's cultural melting pot and tribes people from Kavango, Herero, Damara, Nama and Europeans all contribute to the vibrant community of the city. Lonely Planet claim it is generally safe during the day, but does not recommend walking around alone at night. Further advise at the guesthouse tell me that even during the day, carry nothing with you - no camera, no MP3s, no day-pack. I am disappointed but follow their advise.

This modern city is well-maintained and set out with German quality and organisation. Streets are clean with a plethora of rubbish bins along the main thoroughfares. Certainly one doesn’t get the feeling of “oh hell! I’m about to be mugged”. However i do note that very few people actually carry any bags apart from plastic grocery bags. There are a number of shopping malls (there is even a Woolworth’s snuck away in Hernhill Park) and grocery stores scattered throughout the city. ATMs are aplenty for restocking on local currency. It is very easy to navigate around the city centre on foot.

The city is adorned with Anti-Aids posters, but rather than recommending using condoms or abstinence, they advise just sticking with one partner.

For those lovers of tobacco, this is somewhat of a rare paradise and it appears you can light up anywhere, including shopping malls and restaurants.

Sights include the Alte Feste (Monday – Friday 9am – 6pm, Saturday and Sunday 10.30am – 12.30pm) are Windhoek’s oldest surviving buildings dating back to 1890, with white washed ramparts and housing the historical section of the State Museum. Exhibits include a detailed history of Namibia’s move to independence as well as some old muskets, musical instruments, domestic appliances and furniture. Unfortunately the aesthetics are somewhat spoilt by the nearby secondary school and a new construction site on the other side. Entry is free.

At the affiliated Owela Museum (opening times the same as Alte Feste) has exhibits of the cultural and natural history. Some rather old taxidermy work on Namibian animals and birds take up much of the natural history section, the highlight for me being the explanations behind the fast encroaching extinction of the cheetahs. The cultural history looks at details of the different Namibian tribes-people. There is also a current exhibition on European explorers to the region. Again, the entry is free of charge.

The National Art Gallery has a mix of older and contemporary art some of which is for sale. It opens 9am Tuesday to Saturday. The photographs are particularly good, including the chronicles of Red Cross in the country. There is also an exhibition of jazz performers who have visited Namibia, including Dizzy Gillespie, Louie Armstrong, Miles Davis and Stanley Brubeck situated in the concert hall. The gift shop has some great pieces at what looks like fair prices. No money is asked, but you are expected to sign the Guest Book on entry.

Also situated on Robert Mugabe Avenue is Tinten Palast Gardens, just in front of the Parliament building. These are small, but well maintained and offers a shady respite from the city.

Post St Mall is a bizarre and colourful shopping mall boasting curios, art and clothes mainly from Zimbabwe and a display of several Gibeon meteorites. The helpful and friendly Namibian Tourist Board operate from the 1st floor of the Channel Life Tower building. Close by is a Zoo Park which i haven’t checked out.

The Namibian Wildlife Resorts (NWR) office has moved and is now near the junction between Post St Mall and Independence Road.

As for dining experiences, i have little to report as i am predominantly self-catering. However King Pie (several branches scattered across the city) gets my vote with a decent selection of beef, chicken and vegetable pies on offer at reasonable prices. Little Italian pizzas are good and will deliver. I have resisted the temptations of Kentucky Fried Chicken and Wimpy. Raith’s on the corner of Post Street and Independence Avenue does a great double espresso.

Out of Heathrow

So off on my travels around Africa and it almost ends at Heathrow airport. It is at the SAA flight desk where i am informed that yes, whilst as a British passport holder i am entitled to visa on entries to Namibia and South Africa i am entitled to three month visas, this is only possible if i hold a flight ticket out of South Africa. No onward flight out of Africa, boarding is strictly prohibited. Not exactly geared to overland travel adventures now is it?

So i end up purchasing a refundable ticket out again, only possible on SAA's most expensive flights. Visa saves my ass again as i end up purchasing a flight for £1600 although i am assured that it can be cancelled and money returned to my visa account minus £25. I philosophically regard this as a loan up front.

It's a comfortable 11 hour flight to Joburg with a bulk-head seat and unusually i am able to grab a couple of hours sleep on the way. With a six hour stop-over before my onward flight to Windhoek i eventually clear the transfer desk with only 2 of the possible 8 posts staffed and find myself holed up in a Smoking Lounge to pass the time. Despite the promise of free WiFi it is either a rouse or not working at this current time.

Joburg looks cold, wet and gray and i seriously regret not wearing a pullover or jumper.

Before departing UK i contact the Cameleon City Lodge in Windhoek to book my first few of days accommodation and even airport transfer from the cooly named Chief Hosea Kutako International airport some 42kms east of the city centre. It comes highly recommended in Lonely Planet, reasonably priced with breakfast included, and has the luxury of a swimming pool, a cyber cafe and comfortable loungers. I end up in Lovebirds - the honeymoon suite in a tree-house for the first night. Despite a large group of noisy young American things, the ambiance is cool, and the bougainvillea and jasmine plants give it a jungle-like feel.

at Chameleons - the honeymoon suite is tops!

The drive in from the airport gives a great introduction to Namibia, with huge sandy hillocks, and baboons and gazelles adorning the countryside.

From here, i need to investigate my options for the next 5 weeks in Namibia, with desert visits and a safari around the Etosha crater high on the agenda. There are several tribal experiences available also which sound like interesting options.

According to Lonely Planet's 30th Anniversary edition of Africa, Namibia boasts one of the lowest population densitites in Africa. Barely 1.8 million people inhabit this huge land-mass and averages 2 people for each square kilometres which includes 11 ethnic groups.

Due to its barren and inhospitable coastline, Namibia was generally ignored by European nations. The Portugese arrived in the late 15th century, but their activities were confined to erecting stone crosses to assist navigation. It wasn't until the late 19th century that it was annexed by Germany (except Walvis Bay which was taken by the British in 1878). In 1904 both the Herero and Nama launched a rebellion which was brutally surpressed.

After World War One, the German colony came to an abrupt end and South Africa were given a mandate to rule the territory by the League of Nations and was ratified again by the United Nations after World War Two. Violent protests were common in the late 1950s onwards, but independence only materialised in March 1990.